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After sitting a year I have been battling starting this ol' 6.0. Did the bullet proof oil cooler upgrade (Relocation) kit an a few other things. It finally came time to start, key on, crank.....no start.... Before attempting to start I put fresh oil, filters and fuel in the truck. After the no start I started to trouble shoot
1. Bubble Test - No bubbles present during cranking
2. Loosed fuel rails on heads and went to ignition on - What a mess and a huge lesson learned here.... Myself, engine, driveway, garage door and the local city storm drains all received a baptismal of fuel
3. No oil leaks and or fuel leaks present (aside from self created)
4. Hooked up scan tool and started trouble shooting
48.5-48.0V FICM during cranking
11.5-12.5V on batteries during cranking
ICP percentage at ignition on is .28V - According to a table I have looks to be some where around 50Psi at static
ICP percentage climbs to 1.34V during cranking- Referring to the table looks to be around 900Psi (Meet's the min of 500Psi to start)
IPR at static is at 14.84% and climbs to 83-84% upon initial crank and back down to 37% during extended cranking. This match's the climb of the ICP pressure.
Buzz Tested all injectors. No issues found
DCT's show:
Cam sensor fault (Pretty sure its due to the extended cranking)
ABS Left Rear Wheel speed sensor fault
EGR Valve circuit fault (I performed a delete)
Trailer Brake Controller Fault
The only test I have not performed yet is the Sync (1/0) test for the FICM
I have attached a few pictures for anyone's viewing pleasure to see if something can be seen that I cannot see. If any additional data is needed, I can answer, or provide video/pictures of said data. Any help is appreciated, before I put this thing on a tow truck. Thanks! This is the extended cranking screen shot This is the initial cranking screen shot Ignition on, no cranking
Last edited by HardlyWorkin; Aug 12, 2021 at 01:04 PM.
Reason: Removing Wording about attached video
Will do, I’ll be home in a few hrs to capture this. I believe the crank rpm is 200-300 but I will get exact numbers for the group
Sounds good. Also, let us know how much total cranking time you have. You may be still experiencing a little air in the system. Hopefully you don't have any debris in the IPR. To avoid that issue, you need to be VERY clean when you did the oil cooler work.
Well..... Did the test, got the results, feel like I'm about to get sick...
I could not find the crank time in software (Been a long day, I'm sure I'm looking at it but skipping right over it. Ill check tomorrow)
Sync's for the FICM and the Cam/Crank are {No}..... This is where I felt sick...lol
Fuel Pulse Width 0.00 MS, I'm sure this is because of the sync issue with the FICM
I did notice the main harness connection into the FICM is not seated entirely, it does not want to seat and "click" into place. I can command buzz test and I hear them buzz with the ignition on, but I'm betting some of the wires are not fully seated....thoughts? ( I know its an obvious error and must be corrected before further trouble shooting) Before Cranking Initial Cranking Extended Cranking
Check your CMP sensor. If it has been sitting for an extended period of time, the engine block surface where the sensor is seated is likely rusted a little, just enough to push the sensor outward enough to cause it to lose its reading. And therefore the FICM doesn't know when to fire the injectors.
Well I search high and low and found the issue. After checking the coolant level in my tires, the fluid in my blinkers, I changed my exhaust filter, rubbed oil on my windshield wipers, plugged my cam sensor back in that I forgot about, replaced the flux capacitors in my head lights and finally removed the squirrel in my differential the truck started right up!! I’ll let the jury decide what is the true root cause….
No kidding!! It taught me a lot about trouble shooting the truck though…lol just need to re-gro some hair i pulled out.. haha. Thanks for all the help!
Ok, drove the truck around the neighborhood and local streets. Seemed to be running fine. Now my oil pressure warning message is on and my gauge reads zilch. I had my laptop hook up while driving and didn’t see a dig in the hpop readings until the truck started to sputter and die. I brought it back home via tow truck…225 bucks later…ugh.. and was able to pull it into my driveway. Still no oil pressure reading on the gauge. I suspected the sensor and hooked up a mechanical gauge to see.. 55psi during cranking and 60 when running. Not sure what the specs are but I’m confirming my low pressure is at least there. I think the sensor is bad but the truck still chugs every now and then at idle. Soon as I hook my laptop up it stops…figures. I wonder if it’s coincidence that the sensor goes out and then the IPR is now suspect in my head…I’m going to try and trend the IPR to see if I can catch it, but might as well buy a new one since I’ve heard they are problematic. Thoughts?
Last edited by HardlyWorkin; Aug 18, 2021 at 08:10 PM.
I did! I was running it in the drive way for about 10 min at low idle and flipped it to high idle and it died after 15 seconds or so. When I tried to crank it again the IPC only climbed to .44 volts, thinking somewhere around 300 psi. An obvious no start but I was watching the IPR that was climbing to 80% then back down to 35ish during long cranking before it died on the road. Now it stays at 80+% during extended cranking. Does this sound like a flaky IPR or a high pressure leak?
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