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I recently got a beautiful 2004 350 long bed with a 4 inch lift. I didn't have it more than a month and someone tried to steal it out of a condo parking lot. Fortunately they were not successful. Did steal all my tools though. I found out later that the same night they stole someone else's 2006 King Ranch about 10 blocks away. I agree with most of what is being said about the ineffectiveness of most deterrent systems. Many years ago, in New York City, there was a popular deterrent device being sold. It was a cuff that went around the steering column and covered the ignition lock so nothing could be inserted. Any one know of such a thing still existing? I have looked on line but only found 1 coming out of the Philippines. BTW the F350 is the 3rd most popular vehicle to be stolen in the US.
, single throw toggle switch that I am installing in a very inconvenient place. If it's difficult for me to access, it's going to be harder for thieves.
Coolfeet, your switch/relay would have worked if you had come off of the inertia switch or any other source that has power during on and start.
Using the momentary closed push button switch with the relay connected to the inertia switch,,, The PCM only powers the fuel pump for a couple of seconds to prime the system when you first turn the key to the on position. If you were not holding the push button switch down when you turned the ignition switch to ON, the fuel pump would not prime the system. Of course if you did not hold it down when starting the engine, it would not energize the relay.
I think your idea was to not have to turn the switch off manually every time you turned the engine off?
Then like JWA said using a single pole switch would eliminate the relay...
I remember a car being towed to my dads shop years ago and it wasn't getting any fuel to the carb. The owner had installed a solenoid valve on the fuel line under the car and put the switch in the rear seat ash tray.. one of his children was playing around and had flipped the switch!
Coolfeet, your switch/relay would have worked if you had come off of the inertia switch or any other source that has power during on and start.
Using the momentary closed push button switch with the relay connected to the inertia switch,,, The PCM only powers the fuel pump for a couple of seconds to prime the system when you first turn the key to the on position. If you were not holding the push button switch down when you turned the ignition switch to ON, the fuel pump would not prime the system. Of course if you did not hold it down when starting the engine, it would not energize the relay.
I think your idea was to not have to turn the switch off manually every time you turned the engine off? YES!
Then like JWA said using a single pole switch would eliminate the relay...YES!
I remember a car being towed to my dads shop years ago and it wasn't getting any fuel to the carb. The owner had installed a solenoid valve on the fuel line under the car and put the switch in the rear seat ash tray.. one of his children was playing around and had flipped the switch! I thought about the possibility of a toggle-kill-switch getting turned off while driving. My plan is mounting it where it's inconvenient for me and the passengers. Vans have nice cubby holes and out of the way locations.
If I choose to use your diagram, do I have to depress the momentary switch prior to KO? This is more inconvenient-that's a bonus!
With KO, I push the momentary switch and I hear the relay activate, connecting the fuel pump inertia switch. It worked What did not work was something in the fuse-tap. The 12 volt signal in front of the fuse-tap was not sent to the VR on the alternator. I am not qualified to be called a novice auto-electric technician. I am a beginner! have wired battery boxes, fuses, and 12 volt solar panels that were not dependent on the vehicle. I screwed this project up! Feel free to dissect what I attempted as it's a great learning process. My Ford Electric Wiring manual comes on Monday.
I think I want to try both methods once I receive the manual.
I would be interested to see what caused the issue at the tap also... Like you said once you get the manual. I could see a load amp/watt change on that circuit due to the coil on the relay.
I would be interested to see what caused the issue at the tap also... Like you said once you get the manual. I could see a load amp/watt change on that circuit due to the coil on the relay.
My son said it may be as simple as the path of least resistance. What does know? Well, he's the one that said not to install the kill switch connected to the relay as it's a failure point. I listened to him before our 5-week road trip.
I work for a large public transportation agency in California and thefts of vehicles is becoming common. My wife reads the local police blotters and advises that Ford vans are common targets for theft. My good friend owns a fleet of vans for his plumbing company with kill switches on all his vans.
My buddy and I designed a simple kill switch for the E-series vans. It works on most vehicles. If anyone wants this simple schematic, PM me as I don't want to post how to steal Ford vans on this forum. The kill switch uses a momentary switch similar to your computer power-on button. The nice thing about this kill switch is that you have to activate it with the key on to drive your vehicle. As soon as you turn the engine off, the fuel delivery system is shut off until you push the switch to engage the fuel pump. In other words, you cannot drive the vehicle until the momentary switch is pressed!
I purchased the following parts for this project and used existing wire and connecters.
Hi I'm new member so it won't let me send you a private message but I'm trying to do this to my van today. willz0072002@gmail.com if you'd be so kind sir? Ty
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