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I have seven smoke detectors in my house, and when I put in new batteries, I usually put in at least one backwards. I knew I was going to screw up something on this project and I just found one example. After getting the engine installed I was adjusting the clutch linkage and found it would not dis-engage. A couple of beers later, and a bunch of head scratching, I pulled the engine back out and found that my new clutch disc does not match the original. The hub on the transmission side is about 1/4-inch longer than it should be. It contacts the tube that the throwout bearing rides on. OOPS!. My clutch guy is making me a new disc with the correct hub. Minor set back in the grand scheme of thinks. Just glad I found this before putting the whole front clip back on. It will only cost another pizza to get the guys to help stab the engine back in.
My inner fender aprons have a splash shield stapled to the lower portion in front of the spring tower. Does anyone reproduce these? If not, would anyone have a suggestion of what type of material to use? These are kind of a combination of rubber and fabric. Kind of like a tar paper.
I don't think they are reproduced. I made some out of 1/8 inch rubber and they didn't last long before cracking and trying to fall off. Need to find something similar at a place like mcmaster carr. I would favor something with cords like thin conveyor belt.
Getting closer. Mounted the fenders last night. The fan almost contacts the water pump shaft but I think there is enough play to adjust it to clear. Everything is still loose and once the fenders get lined up correctly I'll go back and snug all the bolts. The fan is a Derale rated at 4,600-cfm.. The temp sensor is in the radiator fins and the fans start at 60% speed after reaching the temp I set. When it gets 10-degrees hotter, it speeds up to 100%. There is also a manual on switch in the cab. The inner fender aprons are tin plated. Nobody in town does galvanizing anymore. That is what I wanted to do since that was the factory way but this is pretty close to original looking.. I'm still looking for a suitable material for the splash shields but haven't found it yet.
Wow, what an amazing job you are doing Flab! I love the attention to detail. On the tin coated inner fenders, I have never heard of having something 'tin coated' before. It looks great, pretty darn close to the old galvanizing. Is having something tin coated common in your part of the country?
My parts pile is getting smaller. The grill shell is OEM that I bought in 1988. ( $186.00 ) its been under the bed in the spare room since then. The push bar is pretty bent from me being a kid and turned out to be a new adventure in cussing to get it back on.. Lights are KC from way back. If anyone has a set of yellow foam covers with the smiley face laying around they can part with, PM me. These lights are 5-inch. The other photo is my solution to the splash shields made out of gasket material. It is 1/8" rubber with two layers of fabric mesh. It should hold up pretty good. I used the old ones as a template and then made them larger to cover the entire gap. I could have done is cleaner but was limited by the size of my material pieces. I don't remember if there were any shields on the passenger side. There are not any mounting holes.
Headlights for the first time in 27-years. LED lights are one of the few modern items I have added. That, electric fans and a subwoofer are about it. The battery cables are all home made with copper lugs and terminal ends on zero-gauge welding cable. The Cole-Hershey battery switch was my high-school graduation present from my old boss. I worked at one of those old full serve gas stations that was a four-bay repair shop. They did everything to exhaust systems and full engine and transmission overhauls. I was the kid that pumped gas, did oil changes and flat repairs checked tire pressure and acted like I was cleaning your windshield really good while i was really just checking out your daughter. This was a great place. The owner was a U.S. Army Corp B25 bomber mechanic during WWII. He and a couple other guys just like him worked there. I learned a heck of a lot from them. Both about what to do and what not to do. I think the reason I am organized is because he was not. He also ran a non-wing dirt sprint car. That was a whole new level of fun for me
I don't have photos but I pent a lot of time repairing the plastic inner fender splash shields. These were every brittle from age and cracked in several places. I took steel wool and spread it into a fine mesh and melted it over the cracks to act like rebar. Then used cable ties like welding rod and melted another layer of plastic on top. It built it up. well and still remained flexible I put a 5/16 bolt in a soldering iron and just pressed everything together..
Howdy everyone. It's been a while since the last post and unfortunately, also since any real noticeable progress. Finally getting back to it and wondering where I left off and what I forgot. My latest obstacle is dash lights. I replaced the white backing housing and circuit board with DC reproductions. The turn signal indicators work, as does the blue high-beam indicator light. Fuse #2, to the inst. cluster does not have power when the key is on, or off, or headlight switch is on or off. Everything else I have tested in the fuse box has power when it should. This has the original headlight switch and I tried swapping it with the switch out of my "79 crew-cab thinking it was just a bad rheostat but,...no dice. I have several wiring schematics but that is like trying to read a bowl of spaghetti with bad eyesight. I understand nut, bolts, pistons, gears and leaking hoses, but I can't see electricity, and am smart enough to know when I am not not smart enough. .Any suggestions where to look?
Howdy everyone. It's been a while since the last post and unfortunately, also since any real noticeable progress. Finally getting back to it and wondering where I left off and what I forgot. My latest obstacle is dash lights. I replaced the white backing housing and circuit board with DC reproductions. The turn signal indicators work, as does the blue high-beam indicator light. Fuse #2, to the inst. cluster does not have power when the key is on, or off, or headlight switch is on or off. Everything else I have tested in the fuse box has power when it should. This has the original headlight switch and I tried swapping it with the switch out of my "79 crew-cab thinking it was just a bad rheostat but,...no dice. I have several wiring schematics but that is like trying to read a bowl of spaghetti with bad eyesight. I understand nut, bolts, pistons, gears and leaking hoses, but I can't see electricity, and am smart enough to know when I am not not smart enough. .Any suggestions where to look?
I have a similar issue with mine. I have a 79 F150 also looking at my wiring schematics I found that there’s a blue and red wire that has power to the blower motor. Also coming from the fuse block I believe it has power to the dash lights also, check and see if your blower motor is working if not, I believe they’re powered from the same wire. But it’s been a while since I’ve looked at my wiring schematics. It’s not a high priority on my list to fix right now because I’m gonna have to tear my blower motor box apart. I have a mouse nest in there and I’m pretty sure the wire was chewed by mice , but double check your wiring. I’m pretty sure it’s the blue wire with a red stripe. hope this helps and gives you a place to check next.
The electrical gremlins are gone and yesterday it went to get the exhaust installed. Coming off the roll-back truck, the rear brakes got mushy.. I have bled the system enough to run a full quart through the system. I unbolted the rear calipers and rotated them and shook them to hopefully make any trapped air come to the top. These are not supplied with a hard line, They have a rubber hose similar to the front calipers. They were remounted and bled again. Still a soft pedal and they don't grab tight enough to hold firm. No leaks anywhere. Could this be a faulty master cylinder that does not produce enough pressure? It was replaced with a NAPA unit and installed about two years ago. I did bench bleed it. The front wheels lock. It is just the rear that is not functioning. Any suggestions where else to look. All calipers were rebuilt.
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