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I've seen differing information on this topic. I am in the process of replacing all of my u joints. Haven't started yet putting them in. The Spicer website says to replace the bolts and straps on some of the joints, and that the u bolts on some other u joints are fine. It also said some of these have to be replaced each time you replace them. Is that just for the strap style, or the u bolt style as well? And which u joints require the straps, and which can I just use the u bolts on? Also, how difficult is it going to be to get my drivelines balanced? I neglected to mark them when taking them apart. Thanks.
Unless there's something wrong with them just reuse your hardware. you don't put new studs in the hub every time you put a wheel back on and you don't need to here either. the ones that use straps will have threaded holes in the yoke. the ones that use U bolts will not be threaded, you can't get them wrong they won't fit. if you do need to replace them it's no big deal.
There is nothing to balance unless you had new driveshafts made and they should have been balanced when they were built.
If you pulled a slip yoke off just be sure you reassemble it with both ends matching .
Unless there's something wrong with them just reuse your hardware. you don't put new studs in the hub every time you put a wheel back on and you don't need to here either. the ones that use straps will have threaded holes in the yoke. the ones that use U bolts will not be threaded, you can't get them wrong they won't fit. if you do need to replace them it's no big deal.
There is nothing to balance unless you had new driveshafts made and they should have been balanced when they were built.
If you pulled a slip yoke off just be sure you reassemble it with both ends matching .
I guess that's what I meant. I removed the one from the 205 to the front axle, and the yoke on the shaft from 435 to the carrier bearing and rear drive shaft. I saw another thread that talked about phasing.
I've never replaced U-joint bolts that hold straps, they aren't to be but so tight, you don't want to egg the bearing cup. The ones that use a U-bolt, likewise do not get super tight, for same reason ... but those nuts are all steel lock type nuts so a person doesn't have to over tighten them to know they'll stay tight ... those I have replaced if no longer gripping the threads. Phasing means each pair of U-joints sit back to back like in the pic below. It shows a slip joint at the carrier or center support, but my '77 has the slip joint in the rear drive shaft between those yokes ... not at the center support.
U-joints between two shafts do mean each one turns 1 full revolution every time the other one does, but the drive side may turn steady speed, but the driven side speeds up and slows down twice each revolution .. phasing cancels out the oscillations if the angles are the same. The steeper the angle, the greater the oscillation is.
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