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Why would you pay for the markup? All those parts are sourced and not made by Holley. The radiator is a Champion and I suggest skipping the e fan setup. You can do a much better e fan on your own. That fan package restricts air flow and limits cooling by no spring the fans away from the radiator and pulling air across the whole core.
Why would you pay for the markup? All those parts are sourced and not made by Holley. The radiator is a Champion and I suggest skipping the e fan setup. You can do a much better e fan on your own. That fan package restricts air flow and limits cooling by no spring the fans away from the radiator and pulling air across the whole core.
I'm not necessarily buying them from holley direct, those are just the links I had on hand for them. The shroud they show does sit off the rad, you can see the bent ends in the photos.
Why pay for a pre-made? For me mostly convenience. I could get a couple nice spal fans for cheaper then source a fab shop to bend up a shroud and maybe come out money ahead, and I might still do it. But someone else has already done the work of making a rad/fan kit that they say works together, I personally don't see a reason to reinvent the wheel.
I'm not necessarily buying them from holley direct, those are just the links I had on hand for them. The shroud they show does sit off the rad, you can see the bent ends in the photos.
Why pay for a pre-made? For me mostly convenience. I could get a couple nice spal fans for cheaper then source a fab shop to bend up a shroud and maybe come out money ahead, and I might still do it. But someone else has already done the work of making a rad/fan kit that they say works together, I personally don't see a reason to reinvent the wheel.
You may have too much faith in that. There is zero skill involved in a flat fan shroud with two fans. You will end up with dead spots and negative zones. This is why if you look at OEM fans the fan is spaced far back in a tapered shroud.
I bought the Champion CC480 ( https://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cool...CC480/10002/-1 ) for my 77 F250 w/ 460 & C6. It bolted straight up to the radiator mount AND my fan shroud also bolted up without any issues. My truck also had A/C and the super cooling radiator in it, so make sure the aforementioned radiator fits your truck before you buy....measurements are on the Jegs website. Whether it's "the best" or not, I'm sure there are better out there, but you're going to pay 2-3 times as much. It all depends on what you're doing with your truck. I only cruise around in the summer and pick up some wood for the winter, so mine isn't worked very hard. I've had it 2 years and haven't had any problems with it.
champion cooling is the wya to go, a 2 row aluminum. you have a BB motor so you may want 3 row. the rows are larger wider in alum radiators than copper brass ones. thats what im doing for my 74 with 390 F350. theres two different mount styler, front flange and rear flange mounts. extension brackets or none. on the backside of rad support. seems like heavier trucvks and bigger motors have the brackets and the others dont/ mine does.
champion cooling is the wya to go, a 2 row aluminum. you have a BB motor so you may want 3 row. the rows are larger wider in alum radiators than copper brass ones. thats what im doing for my 74 with 390 F350. theres two different mount styler, front flange and rear flange mounts. extension brackets or none. on the backside of rad support. seems like heavier trucvks and bigger motors have the brackets and the others dont/ mine does.
In a 4x4 the engine sits at a steeper angle in the chassis by about 1 degree. Doesn't sound like a bunch, but that is around 3/4" from the fan to the tail of the tranny. The 4x4 core support angles the radiator to match the engine angle better. The 2wd trucks with the supercooling option used the same core support as the 4x4's, but they used a different radiator. The supercool radiator will drop right in a 4x4 though
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