Yeah, that's true. Also, I did some reading on this type of problem and someone mentioned an ACT/IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. This sensor also helps determine air fuel ratio. I'll have to check at the parts store and if they're inexpensive then I may just replace it as preventative maintenance.

 

What have you found out about this kind of situation so far? Any promising information?

 

Do not throw parts at this. Measure your ACT/IAT with a meter before throwing another variable into the equation.

Ford Fuel Injection » Air Charge Temperature (ACT)

 

Judging by his thread, so far foresixtee has used the dump out your wallet by replacing parts without doing any testing approach to repairing the truck.

 

Truck hasn't been warmed up. IAT is 3.08 volts while sitting in 83 degree weather. I will warm it up and check again later but I want to test the resistance of the O2 sensor just to be safe.

 

Okay. So let's do a little bit of a recap. I know you guys think I'm just pouring my money out but the only impulsive purchase I made right off the bat was the MAP sensor. Then I became more conservative of myself when dealing with this. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge and my local autoparts store doesn't have one nore do they rent them out. I will have to drive 30 miles to rent one which I may do. I did buy a Fuel Pressure Regulator from my local NAPA but once I put it on it wouldn't run right, it would bog when trying to accelerate and never cleared up and ran right. So I took it back thinking it was a defective part. I went to the junkyard the following day with a buddy and I picked up a FPR from a newer 460. I put it on and I was once again capable of going a mile down the road before it would act up, and after a little acting up it would then clear up. On a 5 mile drive yesterday it would do it twice on the way back. So I only lost 40 on impulse buy.

The other purchase was for an ignition coil. The plug wire from the coil was factory and it said 1994 behind the brand Motorcraft. It was rusted and there was no reflective metal in the plug. I tried to shine up the ignition coil with a wire brush then I noticed the plug was corroded and it looked as if someone tried melting it with a blow torch. I found that problem when I disconnected the IAC valve and listened to the motor while it quietly idled at 500 rpm, and I heard the ignition arc coming from the bad coil wire.

And I didn't pay for the aftermarket ICM so I didn't lose any money on that. My buddy had some problems with his ignition system a while back and he didn't have any use for his spare ICM.

And because when I put the NAPA FPR on the fuel rail and it made it worse and never cleared up like it did before makes me feel like it is a fuel problem entirely. They're high pressure pumps and are quite loud for being a pump but as you know that doesn't indicate anything. I need to get a pressure gauge. There's maybe 1,500 miles on my current fuel filter, got it from NAPA a while back. The filter I took off looked like muddy water coming out of it, and it was filthy. But I will say this and you guys can gamble this fact as well. My front tank guage doesn't work but maybe 1/5th of the time that I'm on that tank, so I constantly find myself running it dry and switching to the rear tank. And we all know that isn't good on the fuel pump because of lack of cooling and it sucks up gunk. But then again its running rich...

And can anyone find me a fuel system diagram for a 90s dual tank f250? I can find the older style ones with a selector valve but not the newer style.

 

Get another filter, drain your tank, your new(old) filter with 1500miles is probably plugged again.

 

There is only one ACT sensor. The other is the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.

 

EEC and Fuel Pump Relay, then Fuel Pumps and Senders

 

the miles isnt what hurts the filter, its you running your tank empty, and it will look like your old filter you just removed.

 

+1

you got gunk in the fuel system., get a couple filters and some GOOD fuel system cleaner and start changing filters before you burn out pumps/ clog things and have to start dropping tanks.

I have never let my 93 go below 1/4 tank on either tank and as far as I know both are original and I am 3rd owner of the truck. I switch between tanks regularly and use my own method of keeping them clean, but I have found often PPL use one tank and it causes failures when they least need it.

 

Well the code I am getting is code 173 which means the O2 sensor is detecting a rich condition. The truck will have poor acceleration like it is running out of gas and bucks then it'll clear up and run fine. If it was clogged and the engine wasn't getting enough fuel then it would be a lean condition.

Code 173: Oxygen sensor not switching – system is or was rich – Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Fuel control

 

The joke that used to live here was unfunny and wrong.

 

That is why I suggested to measure the actual fuel pressure. If it is in specification then it does point to a bad O2 sensor or computer. I suppose given the age of the O2 sensor you could just replace it. If the code is still there that does imply the engine is getting too much fuel, which goes back to fuel pressure and/or the dreaded computer is failing issue stated before.

 

True that. Also, whenever I disconnected the harness for the O2 sensor to check the resistance of the positive and negative pins, one of them had a little bit of wiggle room. I'm going to contact my buddy this morning who should have his fuel pressure guage back from his brother. If I get it I'll let y'all know what fuel pressure is at idle with and without vacuum, under load, and if I can then take it down the road and see if the pressure spikes.