Is this a transmission problem?
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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Is this a transmission problem?
I didn't drive my 94 Bronco for a couple of years and just started driving it again this week.
I found something interesting: if I use D to drive, it accelerates very slow at low speed, feels no power, the RPM ever goes over 2000, it will shift as soon as it gets close to 2000. Seems to me the transmission shifts up too early. So I use 2 instead and found it accelerates better. So I have to shift it to D when it gets to speed. The transmission fluid level is OK. The engine runs pretty good, it can go high RPM when in park.
Does this mean the transmission is broken again (I had it rebuilt at about 75K)?
Thanks!
I found something interesting: if I use D to drive, it accelerates very slow at low speed, feels no power, the RPM ever goes over 2000, it will shift as soon as it gets close to 2000. Seems to me the transmission shifts up too early. So I use 2 instead and found it accelerates better. So I have to shift it to D when it gets to speed. The transmission fluid level is OK. The engine runs pretty good, it can go high RPM when in park.
Does this mean the transmission is broken again (I had it rebuilt at about 75K)?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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It's the E4OD. I haven't checked the codes yet, even I saw the CEL is on sometimes (it will disappear after driving for a while). I do have an adapter to read code from this car using my OBDII reader, but found it's very awkward to read. Any suggestions to make this easier? Thanks!
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,640
From: SE Florida
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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OK, I got the codes:
Three codes from KOEO:
DTC: 633 4x4 switch is closed;
DTC: 622 shift solenoid #2 circuit fault;
DTC: 111 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
Five codes from KOER:
CYL: 8 cylinder number
DTC: 116 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
DTC: 172 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
DTC: 538 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
DTC: 632 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
From the KOEO test, I think I need to disengage the 4x4 switch again? And "shift solenoid #2 circuit fault" could be the real issue here since I feel the transmission shifts wrong? Is this an easy fix? Can I drop the pan and replace it?
I can't make sense of all other codes so I will start from the obvious first.
Thanks!
Three codes from KOEO:
DTC: 633 4x4 switch is closed;
DTC: 622 shift solenoid #2 circuit fault;
DTC: 111 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
Five codes from KOER:
CYL: 8 cylinder number
DTC: 116 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
DTC: 172 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
DTC: 538 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
DTC: 632 the manufacturer specific definition is not available
From the KOEO test, I think I need to disengage the 4x4 switch again? And "shift solenoid #2 circuit fault" could be the real issue here since I feel the transmission shifts wrong? Is this an easy fix? Can I drop the pan and replace it?
I can't make sense of all other codes so I will start from the obvious first.
Thanks!
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,640
From: SE Florida
Yes, the 622 code is probably your problem. You can drop the pan and replace the solenoid body. It may or may not fix your problem. If the solenoid is bad, then a new solenoid body is the way to fix it. But in my experience, this code is usually caused by a fault in the wiring harness between the PCM and the transmission connector.
This site, www.troublecodes.net/ford has definitions for each of those codes.
This site, www.troublecodes.net/ford has definitions for each of those codes.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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Thanks, Mark!
I am thinking about checking the connection first too...
About the solenoid body, I remember last time I change fluid, I found the thin plastic piece hanging under it broken off, so I just threw it away. Now I wonder if that piece has any real function? I found a couple solenoid pack/kit on Rockauto that costs about $300/$400, is this the way to go?
I am thinking about checking the connection first too...
About the solenoid body, I remember last time I change fluid, I found the thin plastic piece hanging under it broken off, so I just threw it away. Now I wonder if that piece has any real function? I found a couple solenoid pack/kit on Rockauto that costs about $300/$400, is this the way to go?
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,640
From: SE Florida
I sure wouldn't spend that kind of money to replace the solenoid body on a guess. I'd do an electrical check on the wiring to see if there is continuity between the PCM and the trans connector for that solenoid before spending anything to replace a part that is probably fine.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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I pulled the connector out from the transmission end, checked, cleaned and reconnected. I pulled it from the other end on the control module under the OBD connector, checked, cleaned and reconnected. Test drove and didn't feel any change. This probably means something really wrong with the solenoids? Maybe because I didn't drive this car for a couple of years, the solenoids got stuck by some dirt down there? I found on eBay a seller who sells refurbished ones for only about $100. Maybe I can give him a try. Any other ideas?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,640
From: SE Florida
How do you know it's the solenoids if you haven't checked the wiring? Looking at both connectors doesn't count as checking the wiring. You need a meter to see if there is continuity in the wires, or shorts to ground or to power.
But if you want to replace the solenoids, go ahead. It isn't my money.
But if you want to replace the solenoids, go ahead. It isn't my money.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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Based on the location/routing of the cable, it's hard to believe it can break somewhere in the middle. It's OK on the connector ends.
Do you know how the computer test the solenoids and make sure they are OK? Just continuity test? Then I can measure resistance on the transmission connector pins to make sure all solenoids inside have continuity, right? Do you have a pinout of that connector? Thanks!
Do you know how the computer test the solenoids and make sure they are OK? Just continuity test? Then I can measure resistance on the transmission connector pins to make sure all solenoids inside have continuity, right? Do you have a pinout of that connector? Thanks!
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,640
From: SE Florida
I do not have a diagram.
The PCM continually monitors the circuit for open/shorts. It also can detect if the armature in the solenoid actually moves when commanded, so it can check the solenoid for function.
The code indicates that there is an electrical circuit fault to shift solenoid #2. In my experience, it is usually the wiring, but your case could be different. I feel that you really want new solenoids, so why not install them and see if it fixes it? If it doesn't, you can troubleshoot the wiring harness then.
The PCM continually monitors the circuit for open/shorts. It also can detect if the armature in the solenoid actually moves when commanded, so it can check the solenoid for function.
The code indicates that there is an electrical circuit fault to shift solenoid #2. In my experience, it is usually the wiring, but your case could be different. I feel that you really want new solenoids, so why not install them and see if it fixes it? If it doesn't, you can troubleshoot the wiring harness then.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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I found it online:
Looks like pin 2 is for solenoid #2. I will check if #2 is connect on both ends. If it is, is there any other test I can do to find the problem? For example, if I put it in shift, should I see something on pin #2? If I want to apply power to solenoid #2 to see if it moves, which two pins should I use?
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
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I know one end of this cable goes onto the transmission, but I can't find the other end. Where does it go? If I can find it, I can measure the resistance between #1 and #2 to verify the solenoid. Could you let me know? Thanks!