I am in the process of fixing my brakes on my 2002 4x4 F-250 diesel.
I kept having issues with phenolic pistons dragging so I bought steel pistons and put them in brand new Power stop calipers.
Put the calipers on, bleed the brakes.
Go to turn the wheel after I turn the truck off, and the brakes won’t release.
I open the bleeder and barely any fluid comes out, which to me means there isn’t return pressure in the caliper.
What would cause this? Thanks.

 

The rubber brake lines

 

brand new rubber lines

 

When you open the bleeder on one of the calipers, can you then turn the rotor/wheel? If so, and the flexible lines are new like you stated, I'd suspect these 20 year old rigid lines next.

if you still cannot turn the rotor/wheel easily with the bleeder open, I'd suspect the rebuild of the calipers with the steel pistons has an issue.

 

Just put the old caliper back on.
Bleed the system, repeated the procedure from the new caliper.
Same thing.
Can my ABS be the issue?
I have no other ideas.

 

When I open the bleeder on the caliper I still cannot turn the wheel.

 

Which rotor/wheel are you trying to turn? When I was installing my reman rear calipers recently, I noticed my wheels turn stiffly with the transmission in neutral, both rear wheels off the ground. Some resistance might be normal.

Do you want to bleed it and take it for a short drive and then measure how hot the brakes get with a thermal gun? You might be ok.

 

It is my Drivers Front.

I am going to put the new caliper back on, re bleed and take it for a drive. What temps should I be seeing after a 5-10 minute drive?

 

Pull the fuse for the ABS module. This will trigger the ABS light in the cluster, but the module will not activate the brakes.

Are the hoses are installed properly and routed in a way that the fluid flows both directions easily.

If the calipers and hoses are new in the front, you might have a failure in the rear causing adverse results.

How did you bleed the hoses and calipers? Do you push or pull fluid through?

What does the pedal do when you push down to apply the brakes and then let up?

When stopping to check the rotor temperatures with my 5th wheel attached, I see 150 - 190° most times. If both sides are roughly the same, then you are good, unless they are b9ypth exceptionally high.

My driver front seized once and it read 806° on the rotor.

 

Hello Sous,

I followed the routing from my Ford manual, seems to be normal.

I have yet to replace the rear yet.

Initially I pull a vacuum on the bleeders, and then I finish off by having someone hit the brakes and confirm no air in the fluid coming out.

The pedal has a 1/2” of soft pedal and then it’s firm. After I let off, the pedal comes back up, not rapidly but not slowly either.

I guess I will take it for a drive and see what I get.

 

@fmtrvt Any help with this? I see you’re a brake system master.

 

If you open the bleeder and the wheel still doesn't turn...it's dang sure not the ABS...the piston has swollen and is stuck in the bore.

 

I don’t understand how the piston can swell when I haven’t even driven the truck yet.

When I remove the caliper from the bracket I can easily push the piston back into the caliper.

 

Did you install any springs or pad silencers that could be binding with the piston?

Is it only the one side that is seizing up, or both sides?

Strange...

 

I haven’t done the other side yet.
The driver side was the issue before so I wanted to tackle that first.

Edit:
The pads have silencers on the back side. I put the wishbone springs on the pads.