D60 rear carrier
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 484
Likes: 51
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
D60 rear carrier
1972 Ford F-250 4x4 rear: The gear shop is putting in a 3.54 gear set (from previous 4.10 for diesel swap) and said the carrier has a spun bearing, carrier needing replacement.
I need to find a replacement carrier.
Any recommendations for a carrier like a limited slip?
Thank you,
Sam
I need to find a replacement carrier.
Any recommendations for a carrier like a limited slip?
Thank you,
Sam
Tuned
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 413
Likes: 52
When I was looking for a limited slip option for my 1970 I found that there were few if any aftermarket options for the 16 spline axles. Apparently swapping to 30 spline is not too difficult if you locate axle shafts from a later year. If you want to stick with 16 spline you probably need Craigslist or Ebay to find a used carrier of unknown condition. I gave up and went with a Sterling. Lots of 3.55 Sterlings with trak-lok from the mid 90's and even with driveshaft and e-brake changes the swap may be cheaper than locating Dana 60 aftermarket parts. The correct Sterling is also quite a bit stronger than the 60 if I'm not mistaken. If you're interested I can dig out the good years to search for.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 484
Likes: 51
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
GPatrick, I appreciate it. I’m interested in the correct Sterling eventually but not at the moment with budget constraints on the diesel swap. I think I’ll try to find an open carrier replacement for the d60 to get the truck rolling off the driveway into the foreseeable future.
Open carrier 4.10 on down (for 3.54) with 16 spline sound correct?
thank you.
Sam
Open carrier 4.10 on down (for 3.54) with 16 spline sound correct?
thank you.
Sam
When I was looking for a limited slip option for my 1970 I found that there were few if any aftermarket options for the 16 spline axles. Apparently swapping to 30 spline is not too difficult if you locate axle shafts from a later year. If you want to stick with 16 spline you probably need Craigslist or Ebay to find a used carrier of unknown condition. I gave up and went with a Sterling. Lots of 3.55 Sterlings with trak-lok from the mid 90's and even with driveshaft and e-brake changes the swap may be cheaper than locating Dana 60 aftermarket parts. The correct Sterling is also quite a bit stronger than the 60 if I'm not mistaken. If you're interested I can dig out the good years to search for.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 484
Likes: 51
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Sorry to not be clearer, I’d like to know what years 10.25 would swap in.
IIRC it’s wider and spring perches would be different needing fabrication.
Plan B if finding the open carrier is a pain.
thanks again.
Sam
IIRC it’s wider and spring perches would be different needing fabrication.
Plan B if finding the open carrier is a pain.
thanks again.
Sam
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,009
Likes: 250
From: North Pole, Alaska
Up to 98 for 10.25. SD's are 10.5 with 8 x 170mm bolt pattern. Contact Torque King to see what they have for D60 16 spline carriers.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 413
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93-ish through 97 or 98 are 10.25 with the correct wheel bolt pattern and the long pinion. Pre-93 had issues with pinion bearings - I found 3 at the pick and pull and all three were shot. I have a 97.
I am not familiar with what carriers were compatible with what gear ratios on the D-60's. I bought a set of 2.25 perches for my Sterling. I cut off the factory perches (not fun) and welded the new ones on. If I recall, the stock shock mounts actually still worked. If you can find a reasonably priced carrier that is probably the easiest route. Since I intend to tow with mine I decided to upgrade and sold my old 4.10 D60 to a kid that had just blown his up on his 4X4.
I am not familiar with what carriers were compatible with what gear ratios on the D-60's. I bought a set of 2.25 perches for my Sterling. I cut off the factory perches (not fun) and welded the new ones on. If I recall, the stock shock mounts actually still worked. If you can find a reasonably priced carrier that is probably the easiest route. Since I intend to tow with mine I decided to upgrade and sold my old 4.10 D60 to a kid that had just blown his up on his 4X4.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 484
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Moose4x4, thanks for the recommendation. Sorry to have to be spoon fed here. Would the 16 spline spider (side) gears install into the limited slip case like the spicer 708013 that uses 30 spline side gears?
Update: I went to the gear shop and the spun bearing race had small points on the bearing surface. They asked me if I had done any welding on the truck. The idea was that somehow the bearings got welded to the race, broke free eventually and spun the bearing. Way back 3 years ago when I put the power steering in would be when alot of welding was done on the frame. Anyone have a similar experience?
Update: I went to the gear shop and the spun bearing race had small points on the bearing surface. They asked me if I had done any welding on the truck. The idea was that somehow the bearings got welded to the race, broke free eventually and spun the bearing. Way back 3 years ago when I put the power steering in would be when alot of welding was done on the frame. Anyone have a similar experience?
Last edited by stpackard; Jul 13, 2021 at 07:41 PM. Reason: clarification on spider (side) gears and 708013 Spicer
FTE Emeritus
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,288
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From: springfield Missouri area
Moose4x4, thanks for the recommendation. Sorry to have to be spoon fed here. Would the 16 spline spider (side) gears install into the limited slip case like the spicer 708013 that uses 30 spline side gears?
Update: I went to the gear shop and the spun bearing race had small points on the bearing surface. They asked me if I had done any welding on the truck. The idea was that somehow the bearings got welded to the race, broke free eventually and spun the bearing. Way back 3 years ago when I put the power steering in would be when alot of welding was done on the frame. Anyone have a similar experience?
Update: I went to the gear shop and the spun bearing race had small points on the bearing surface. They asked me if I had done any welding on the truck. The idea was that somehow the bearings got welded to the race, broke free eventually and spun the bearing. Way back 3 years ago when I put the power steering in would be when alot of welding was done on the frame. Anyone have a similar experience?
I would think they would be the same size other than the spline count.
On the points on the bearing surface--- The bearing must have spun at an earlier date. An old trick to tighten the brg was to take a welding rod and let it stick to the bearing surface and then you break it off and it leaves a little metal to take up some of the slack. This would be my guess. Welding on the front end should have nothing to do with that bearing surface.
Might check with C&M gear in Springfield MO 417-862-4457, they sell spicer and have old used parts also for axles, trans, transfer case, etc. Tell em moose sent ya.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 484
Likes: 51
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
I believe here’s what happened: 3 years ago the axle was rebuilt with new bearings, etc. I did the 78-79 power steering and the axle was installed. All the frame welding was done with a hd 220v miller welder..not light welding. The rollers appeared to have been welded to the outer race and probably the inner race. Looked like little tax welds on the bearing surface of the outer race. The other carrier bearing was fine.
All timken bearings, setup in a shop that reputedly does good quality work..
the inner race had spun on the carrier, destroying the metal, new bearing was loose/sloppy fit warranting carrier replacement.
Maybe the welder wiring wasn’t grounded adequately? I’m no expert in that. Perhaps this could be fair warning to guys doing welding on frames to avoid a similar experience.
All timken bearings, setup in a shop that reputedly does good quality work..
the inner race had spun on the carrier, destroying the metal, new bearing was loose/sloppy fit warranting carrier replacement.
Maybe the welder wiring wasn’t grounded adequately? I’m no expert in that. Perhaps this could be fair warning to guys doing welding on frames to avoid a similar experience.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 484
Likes: 51
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Thanks Moose for the advice.
As with almost every other thing on this pickup, I come around to “if you want it done right, do it yourself.”
This is why I usually don't let 'mechanics' touch any of my stuff unless I absolutely must... I can muck things up entirely on my own, thank you very much, without paying for the privilege.
It’s hard to know what to do when just 3 years ago they set up the axle with all new parts and to have a failure already. Initially I remember spinning the pinion and it feeling to spin somewhat-slightly ‘grainy’ and not smooth..
I could see how cutting corners as you’re describing could save time and effort on the meticulous process of setting differential gears. The shop is locally recommended almost everywhere and they have a background of older vehicles.
When taking delivery at the shop before settling the bill, I’m going to take the diff cover off to look over the work. I suppose I should be looking for gear paint, welds, and checking for smooth operation.
Anything I should check for before paying the bill.
Thanks
Sam
As with almost every other thing on this pickup, I come around to “if you want it done right, do it yourself.”
This is why I usually don't let 'mechanics' touch any of my stuff unless I absolutely must... I can muck things up entirely on my own, thank you very much, without paying for the privilege.
It’s hard to know what to do when just 3 years ago they set up the axle with all new parts and to have a failure already. Initially I remember spinning the pinion and it feeling to spin somewhat-slightly ‘grainy’ and not smooth..
I could see how cutting corners as you’re describing could save time and effort on the meticulous process of setting differential gears. The shop is locally recommended almost everywhere and they have a background of older vehicles.
When taking delivery at the shop before settling the bill, I’m going to take the diff cover off to look over the work. I suppose I should be looking for gear paint, welds, and checking for smooth operation.
Anything I should check for before paying the bill.
Thanks
Sam
I would think they would be the same size other than the spline count.
On the points on the bearing surface--- The bearing must have spun at an earlier date. An old trick to tighten the brg was to take a welding rod and let it stick to the bearing surface and then you break it off and it leaves a little metal to take up some of the slack. This would be my guess. Welding on the front end should have nothing to do with that bearing surface.
Might check with C&M gear in Springfield MO 417-862-4457, they sell spicer and have old used parts also for axles, trans, transfer case, etc. Tell em moose sent ya.
On the points on the bearing surface--- The bearing must have spun at an earlier date. An old trick to tighten the brg was to take a welding rod and let it stick to the bearing surface and then you break it off and it leaves a little metal to take up some of the slack. This would be my guess. Welding on the front end should have nothing to do with that bearing surface.
Might check with C&M gear in Springfield MO 417-862-4457, they sell spicer and have old used parts also for axles, trans, transfer case, etc. Tell em moose sent ya.
