I am preparing for my rebuild(400 2V)which will start in January. That has given me plenty of time to research and ask if I am on the right track. So far I am thinking:

Comp Cams custom grind in Hot Rod issue: 280H-3 ($195)

" " lifters ($85)

Scorpion Roller Conversion ($200)

Edelbrock Thunder AVS Off-Road 650-750?(any thoughts on that)
($380)

" Performer with EGR ($?)

Double Roller(Cloyes?)(what do you recommend?) ($70)

Crane Ignition($?)

Upgraded oil and fuel pump.(what are you guys using?) ($?)

Coated Headers(once again, what are you running?) ($?)

This is where things get the ? I want to stay with the stock heads. 5500 RPM is max. Smooth up intake, work the exhaust, and polish combustion chamber. Would upgrading to 2.19's and 1.71's be beneficial on a ported 2V? Milodon Mega-Flow SS's can be grabbed for $226 out of Summit. I have access at school to regrind seats and do a 3 angle job. Also have a flow-bench. This is where I really need some input....Pistons. Looking for around 9.5 compression. Is there a combo(351C,400)that will get me close to zero deck and that compression with the 2V heads? Will rebush rods if need be. I have read so much about quench my head hurts. I have read all the posts I can about the open vs. closed battle. New heads are not an option at this time. With that in mind, help me out with piston selection. I will be rebuilding the ONLY Ford and I want to show the chebby lovers that a little here, a little there makes a Monster! It's going to be an ALL SMALL-BLOCK BATTLE ROYALE! I am so sick and tired of their do-do <!-- sh@# edited by admin -->, please help me put them in their place.

 

Good luck at kicking chebby guys asses

 

You don't need to change the valve sizes. The 351C-4V valves get shrouded by the cylinder. You want to bore it +0.030 and use KB 148 pistons with 1.67 Compression Height. They are 351C pistons so you have to bush the rods. You can take .010 off the deck and the heads. That should get you to about 9.7:1. You will not get any quench, but that is OK if you use the right cam. You mention CC 280H-3 and then a Scorpion Roller Conversion. I think that you want a Roller grind for that roller conversion. The 280H is a flat hydraulic lifter grind. If you go to a CC284HR, you should be OK. That has an intake closing angle of 68 degrees. Your Dynamic compression is 7.6:1. Dyno 2000 says torque = 472@3500 and HP 404@5000. Of course your head flow will have a major effect on these numbers.

You don't indicate what your desired result is. This would be a street/performance build, not a stump puller.

(OK Scorpion roller conversion is rockers not lifters.)

The CC280H comes out to torque = 437@3500, HP = 348@5000.

 

That's my bad, I forgot to mention it. I am looking for a stump puller. Something that will get me through the snow in winter and a weekend fun toy. Thanks for that info. I meant just roller rockers and you caught it. With that in mind, any other suggestions? I can't think of much else, just was hoping to hit around 400 horse and 500 torque with a really flat curve.

 

For your stump puller you will need to lower the compression back to 9.0-9.2:1 and use a slightly smaller cam like the Comp cams 255DEH http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Ca...TML/92-97.html

I assume you are putting this engine in a truck.

 

Use a flattop replacement piston like the Dynagear/Ohio, mill the heads or block to get 9.1:1 static CR. Use a CC 260HR cam and the rest is in the head work. If you can get them to flow near 300CFM at 0.510 lift then you should get these results.

Torque = 511@3000 RPM
HP = 420@5000 RPM

I simulated a 255DEH also

Torque = 471@2500 RPM
HP = 369@5000 RPM

Both of these have very flat torque curves. They don't start to roll off until 4000 RPM. You get near the peak torque throughout the range. The Roller is the highest and flattest.

 

You can find the 255DEH specs at the comp cams website.
http://www.compcams.com/

 

I have to say this is the ultimate board. My engine teacher has me checking things out now because of all the info on here. He's rebuilding a 4v 351C with a four bolt main. He wants to know if a crank out of a 2 bolt block will fit the 4 bolt block. If you happen to know, that would be awesome. Back to my build, thanks for all the input. The truck is a 78 F-250 4X4. Thanks danlee and Torque1st! You have pretty much answered all my questions. I have all of Comp Cams info downloaded and printed. Danlee, you have got the numbers I would be more than happy with. It looks like it will come down to porting the heads. Do you have any flow numbers on the exhaust side I should be aiming for? Do the rest of my choices to this build seem alright(carb, intake, etc.)?

 

The 2 bolt and 4 bolt 351C blocks are the same, one has two more bolts than the other.
If you go to a roller cam you can use the roller lifters from a 5.0 roller motor. You need a roller conversion kit. You can get both used. The conversion kit is $43.95 from PAW new. The lifters are $197.95 new.

I have Crane Energizer roller rockers. i am not familiar with Scorpion, but that is about the same price as Crane.

I have a 750 CFM Carter(same as Edelbrock Performer). If you need off road, you can get off-road needles and seats (EDE-1466) from PAW for $10.95. An Edelbrock 750CFM carb with Electric choke(EDE-1411) is $279.95.

An Edelbrock Performer 400 non-EGR(EDE-2171) is $186.95 from PAW. The EGR version(EDE-3771) is $249.95. Some people like like the EGR version better. A Weiand Action Plus(WEI-8010) may be better than both and is $194.95.

I am using a Cloyes TRUE double roller timing chain (CLO-9-3121) It is $84.95.

I am using a Mallory Unilte distributor, Mallory Promaster coil, and a Holley Annihilator control box. I went to the Mallory Unil;ite because of manifold clearance problems that you will not have. If you have a duraspark distributor keep it. Use a compatible MSD,Crane, Mallory etc coil and control box to suit your needs.

I am using a Melling High Volume oil pump. Some people say it is not necessary. I say it is cheap insurance. One other thing you may want to do is to put oil restrictors in your block as you rebuild it. There should be information on that somewhere in the tech articles.

I am using a Carter Electric fuel pump. The mechanical pumps are OK, but some replacement pumps don't control the fuel pressure well enough. The Electric pump does. If you use an Electric pump install an oil pressure shut off switch to shut off the pump if the engine stops. This is a safety device.

I am using Sanderson Block Huggers. You may want a full length header. Mine were ceramic coated( I did it myself), but I am going to get them Jet-Hot coated, because I get too much heat under the hood.

The exhaust flow should be near 200 CFM at 0.510 lift.

These flow numbers are going to be hard numbers to reach. They are the numbers from Austrailian 3V Aluminum heads. The exhaust will be the most difficult. Even if you don't reach 300 and 200 CFM, every CFM you get out of them will translate into torque.

 

I found some flow data on 351C-2V heads and run the simulations.

First, the head flow is Intake = 196.5 and Exhaust = 159.6 @.500 lift. So there is some room for improvement.

With the 260HR Torque = 499@2000 RPM and goes down from there, but not too bad until 4000 RPM. HP = 334@4000 RPM.

With the 255DEH cam, the torque curve looks more normal. It peaks at 441@2500. The HP = 320@4500 RPM.

I believe that the strange torque curve with the roller cam is due to the fact that the head flow is limiting filling of the cylinder above 2000 RPM. In the case of the 255DEH, the head flow can supply the needs of the cam to a higher RPM. This effect did not occur in the previous simulation due to the higher head flow numbers.

 

I too am building to that Hot Rod article except: I am using an XE262H cam instead of the XE268H, and I am adding roller rockers, windage tray, ceramic Super-comp headers, Edelbrock Streetmaster intake, Road Demon 725 carb, and dual exhaust with glass packs, H-pipe, and no cats. Comp Cams suggested the XE262 over the XE268 as the XE262 is supposed to have a bit more low-end torque and it is available off-the-shelf for $116 or so. I am using flat-top pistons, so my CR should be around 9.2:1.

The Streetmaster intake is a single-plane, but the effective range is 1500-4500 RPM. I have used one of these on a 400 before and liked it. If there were any decent dual-plane intakes available I would use one. The Performer is not a performance intake, it is simply an aluminum stand for your carb.

 

I was away for a couple of days, but I wanted to get back to this to find out why the Torque Curve slopes so much when I use 351C-2V flow numbers with the roller cam(260HR), but not as much with the 255DEH cam.

I think that I have the answer.

I ran some more simulations, and changed things one at a time.
First I used the Aussie 3V intake valve flow data and the 351C-2V exhaust data. The numbers improved, but the slope of the torque curve remained.
Next, I used the 351C-2V intake valve flow data and the Aussie 3V exhaust valve data. This improved the numbers and flattened the torque curve.
Next I used 351C-2V data for the intake and exhaust, but lengthened the duration of the exhaust valve from 260 degrees to 270 degrees. This made the 260HR roller cam similar to the dual pattern 255DEH. The result was the torque curve flattened.

So, my conclusion is that The 351C-2V intake flow is very good at these lifts, but the exhaust flow needs help. There are two ways to accomplish this improvement. One is to port the exhaust to get better flow, the second is to use a dual pattern cam. Even a roller cam will work better with a dual pattern if the exhaust ports are not significantly improved.