Ok so I have a "built" 4r100 with about 15k on it. Fluid is clean and smells fine. Only problem I feel is sometimes it won't go into overdrive. Sometimes it will but at higher speeds than normal. Other times I can fix it by switching between different tuners tunes. The only other symptom I have is on windy roads while towing it will start flashing the od light. But the truck seems to shift normally between gears. Pulled tranny codes and the only ones I got were 1-2 shift error and 3-4 shift error. Could it be the solenoid pack? I feel like it has to be an electrical issue. Or should I look elsewhere first?

 

Maybe Mark K will kick in with some better advice, but if it were me I'd probably start with inspecting and cleaning the connectors for the transmission control harness and the range sensor. Then maybe run forscan while trying to replicate an incident while monitoring about every transmission related PID I could find.

 

Let's start with some basic info, like exactly what tuner and what codes.

Do you have a transmission temp gauge, aside from the dash?

Another possibility is a chafed transmission selector wire in the steering column. Check out this thread.

 

The first thing to do is pull the tuner chip and see what it does.

 

Shift error codes are something that Ford was able to implement on the 4R100 that the E4OD was incapable of doing (thanks to the implementation of a Turbine Shaft Speed sensor) so it could tell if the shift actually took place when it was commanded. The PCM is smart enough and has the inputs to tell what the gear ratio is in the transmission between the input shaft and output shaft and determine whether or not there is a slippage problem or if the ratio is constant enough to be confident that a particular shift did or did not take place. The E4OD and earlier PCMs could determine a slipping problem based on the vehicle speed and engine RPM but the code could only be set during those times when the converter clutch was commanded on. This means that the slip could potentially be anywhere between the converter clutch (could be commanded "on" but the PCM has no clue if it's actually holding) and the output shaft based on which clutches or holding elements are involved in 3rd/4th gear.

Shift error codes are rarely caused by a slipping friction element (which is why you don't have burned fluid) but are more typical of either a sticking shift valve, broken accumulator springs, or a failure of a hard part in the geartrain. If the concern is intermittent, it's probably not a hard part failure. If the concern is not accompanied by a circuit code it's a fairly safe bet that it's not an electrical issue as the PCM is always at the ready to detect circuit faults and does so with speed and accuracy.

I can't tell you exactly what's wrong but the accumulator valves and springs are a huge deal on the 4R100. If the valves hang up or the springs break then shifts don't happen. The 2-3 shift valve can be a concern but you didn't list that one so your main control valve body is likely fine but again, I can't say for sure via the interwebz.....hard to diagnose while sitting on the toilet.

 

What does a sticking brake light switch or issue with 3rd brake light cause? Does it just effect TC lockup? Sorry, brain not working well yet this morning.

 

This strongly suggests that the tunes are causing the problem.

If it were the solenoids it would set codes for the solenoids. There are codes to tell you if there are electrical issues, and other codes to tell you if there are mechanical issues with the solenoids. Since there are neither, I am confident that the solenoids are fine.

It could be a sticking shift valve in the valve body. There is a separate valve for 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4.

 

further info. I am running a hydra with both jellibuilt and 1023 tunes. I prefer the jelibuilt and never had a problem with them until 6 months ago. When it won't shift into overdrive sometimes it will but at higher speeds but other times I have to shift to the 1023 tunes. I am running single shot injectors so unplugging the chip is not an option. I can't feel any slipping or shifting errors when the od light flashes. Is the valve body in question the forward one because I can change that one pretty easy with my skill set. The transmission was built by someone who was supposedly a good builder but around the time I bought it he started putting out questionable trannys. Chuck dorsey he's now out of buisness. The tranny has never gotten over 180 degrees. I did pull the pan and filter at around 15 to 20k and attached are the pictures of the magnet don't know if this is normal or not.

 

I have tried running in other tunes the last couple days and am still having od not wanting to engage occasionally. By that I mean I'm getting all 4 foward gears but no converter lockup for overdrive so I'm running between 2500 and 3k rpm at 65mph. The only way to fix the issue is to shut off the truck and restart then usually od will work again. Does the accumulator valve body also controll the overdrive or torque converter lockup? I am also now getting the 1-2 and 3-4 shift errors without towing but I don't notice or feel and shifting issues when this happens. I really don't want to have to but another 5k tranny. But also don't want to put in a $300 valve body if I'm gonna have to replace the tranny anyway.

 

Let's straighten out your terminology so that we are all talking about the same thing.

This is a four speed transmission. Fourth gear is overdrive. They are the same gear. The torque converter lockup is not overdrive. The torque converter can lock in all four forward gears.

The accumulator body does not control the torque converter lockup. In fact, it only controls the shift feel for the gear changes. The main valve body has the shift valves that control all of the shifts. The torque converter clutch is controlled by the torque converter clutch control valve, which is located in the pump body.

Since you have codes for shifts and no codes for torque converter clutch, I think your description is wrong. I believe that your torque converter clutch is locking just fine, but you are not shifting 3-4, which means it isn't shifting to overdrive. Your RPM reading suggests that, too.

Your photos show more junk on the magnet than I am comfortable with. I think you have a problem here. I don't know where that debris is coming from, but I'll bet it is making the shift valves stick sometimes, and that is causing your shift issues.

 

ok thanks for the info and advice I was going by what my monitor was telling me it was showing all 4 gears from the pcm thru the obd2 port but no od shift. What would be your reccomendation? Valve body replacement? service? or start saving for a new tranny?

 

I know next to nothing about transmissions except they cost a lot and work on some form of voodoo 😉 , but if I had a transmission with only 15k miles on it that is having problems I’d be having a serious conversation with the person (assuming used a shop) who built and installed it. Other than that I defer... ☺️

 

he's out of buisness he's been sued and literally owes at least 10 ppl over 10k for full bullit builds he never delivered as well as numerous warranty returns repairs. He was supposedly a top builder for a while then went to ****. He was reccomended by Matt Maier and others apparantly did put out goid trannys for a while had a good write up in diesel world mag. Preformed well in competitions but apparantly decided to screw everyone.

 

So you say it is showing it shifts to od and that it doesn't shift to od. This is confusing.

There are four gears. Fourth gear IS overdrive. So if it shifts 1-2, 2-3, then 3-4, the transmission has shifted into overdrive.

I think a new valve body will fix it until the debris in the trans causes that one to stick, too. That may be a week or two. I think the trans needs to be rebuilt to find where the problem lies. Something in there appears to be grinding itself up.

 

sorry if it's confusing. I feel And see the shift on the the monitor to 2nd then 3rd then 4th. Then usually around 55 60 mph their is another shift at causing speeds that lowers my rpms that's the one that's not happening.