Oil pan replacement
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Oil pan replacement
I have a 92 f350 with the 7.3. I need to replace the oil pan because its rusty and the previous owner put JB Weld all over it. Its leaking slightly and I have a big trip coming up. Now I read a thread where someone said the motor has to come out or have to unbolt the cab to get the pan out. Does anyone with experience know how to do this? Should I have a shop do it and estimated cost? I have everything to do it but wanted to avoid unnecessary things since its rusty and I don't want bolts to brake or be siezed.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 434
Likes: 2
From: Santa Cruz Mountains
I did an e350 without pulling the motor. Took 1 long day to get the oil pump OUT and 1 long day to have it back running. It was a shady tree environment so certain things just were not available to make it faster.
Duuuuh...do ya like to spend money on things you can do yourself?
Do you have the time to do it yourself?
Double your estimate...give yourself a weekend and remember to double it!-)
Taking a trip huh....
afraid of rusty bolts huh....
shops gonna cost ya plenty
maybe put in a new oil pump....dunno
good luck
Duuuuh...do ya like to spend money on things you can do yourself?
Do you have the time to do it yourself?
Double your estimate...give yourself a weekend and remember to double it!-)
Taking a trip huh....
afraid of rusty bolts huh....
shops gonna cost ya plenty
maybe put in a new oil pump....dunno
good luck
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I did an e350 without pulling the motor. Took 1 long day to get the oil pump OUT and 1 long day to have it back running. It was a shady tree environment so certain things just were not available to make it faster.
Duuuuh...do ya like to spend money on things you can do yourself?
Do you have the time to do it yourself?
Double your estimate...give yourself a weekend and remember to double it!-)
Taking a trip huh....
afraid of rusty bolts huh....
shops gonna cost ya plenty
maybe put in a new oil pump....dunno
good luck
Duuuuh...do ya like to spend money on things you can do yourself?
Do you have the time to do it yourself?
Double your estimate...give yourself a weekend and remember to double it!-)
Taking a trip huh....
afraid of rusty bolts huh....
shops gonna cost ya plenty
maybe put in a new oil pump....dunno
good luck
Man, not afraid of no rust lol. I used to work at a rust repair shop. I just hate making multiple trips just for bolts. Waste of time. Oil pump have to come off to get pan off? Some said to raise the motor up so the pan can clear something? What is that something? What makes this a long job? On my one car, its literally a 20 minute job.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,985
Likes: 515
From: Edmond, OK
I've never R/R the oil pan on my 6.9l IDI but I figure it would be just as difficult as any other RWD vehicle. The crossmember gets in the way! 
It would be even more difficult if your truck is 4WD. The transfer case and 1/2 shaft would make things tight.
I was able to remove the oil cooler without raising the engine. It made a hell of a mess though. Here's a good thread on doing the oil pan. Good luck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-oil-pan.html
It would be even more difficult if your truck is 4WD. The transfer case and 1/2 shaft would make things tight.I was able to remove the oil cooler without raising the engine. It made a hell of a mess though. Here's a good thread on doing the oil pan. Good luck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-oil-pan.html
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 434
Likes: 2
From: Santa Cruz Mountains
Kroil.....itsin the orange can and not every store carries it....it works the best for me.
hit the rusty stuff first and also give it some force in the tighten direction....more kroil
hit and tighten...loosen...tighten....kroil...hit...etc... ..works best for me
after its all apart seems like all the broken stuff will be accounted for and one trip to the store....right?....
never just one trip to the store though!-)))
no. The oil pump is inside attached under the crank.
Also, check out your rear main seal....no better time to tighten up that area than now....its an EASY put off till later though!-)))
best of luck to you and lets hear how it goes
hit the rusty stuff first and also give it some force in the tighten direction....more kroil
hit and tighten...loosen...tighten....kroil...hit...etc... ..works best for me
after its all apart seems like all the broken stuff will be accounted for and one trip to the store....right?....
never just one trip to the store though!-)))
no. The oil pump is inside attached under the crank.
Also, check out your rear main seal....no better time to tighten up that area than now....its an EASY put off till later though!-)))
best of luck to you and lets hear how it goes
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,585
Likes: 5,613
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
you need to lift the engine about 6-8 inches to clear the oil pump pickup tube.
you need to lift the cab to lift the engine.
i find it is easier to just pull the engine out..
you need to lift the cab to lift the engine.
i find it is easier to just pull the engine out..
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 290
Likes: 27
From: california's farmland
sometimes (not very often) i have more money (or resources like a lift, special tools, etc) than time
other times i just dont have the knowledge and want it done professionally
and finally somedays i might just be feeling lazy
sounds like this might be one of the times where you get to do the work and i suggest doing the oil cooler while youre working on the oil pan
other times i just dont have the knowledge and want it done professionally
and finally somedays i might just be feeling lazy
sounds like this might be one of the times where you get to do the work and i suggest doing the oil cooler while youre working on the oil pan
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Elder User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 695
Likes: 22
If it's like any other engine, after you loosen and drop the pan, you reach in and unbolt the 2(?) oil pump pickup tube bolts and drop the tube into the pan to gain clearance.
You don't "tighten up" a rear main seal plus having the pan off does not give you access to it. Last time I looked you get to it after removing the trans.
Also, check out your rear main seal....no better time to tighten up that area than now..
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Sorry it's been so long. I still didn't do this yet. But it appears the pan isnt the main leak. What are common areas. It looks to be on the driver's side and above the crossmember where I cant see.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 290
Likes: 27
From: california's farmland
like i suggested and @tjc transport restated its probably the oil cooler which i believe you will have to lift the engine a bit to access so you might as well do the oil pan too since its janky
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 434
Likes: 2
From: Santa Cruz Mountains
And the valve cover gaskets and check the crank seals (rear main and front) as these are common minor leaks that turn major fast.....
and ray is “literally” correct. You will not “tighten” up any of these areas to solve the problem...
”tighten” it up is a term some tradesman use to say “correct the problem”....sorry if you understood that all you have to do is “tighten” it up and that will solve your problem.
You will have to loosen and sometimes completely remove the part(s) and clean the surface area of the old gasket and sometimes a sealant that has seemed to become part of the part but isnt and if you leave it it will leak if not immediately sometime down the road.
however....
after doing all these areas while your motor is out or disassembled you will have a “tightened up” motor....
with new gaskets of course!-).
Dunno.....itsalottaworka.....leak...leak..leak.... maybe just leave it for the next time.....leak...those valve covers are a pita....leak....tighten........................... leak
good luck
and ray is “literally” correct. You will not “tighten” up any of these areas to solve the problem...
”tighten” it up is a term some tradesman use to say “correct the problem”....sorry if you understood that all you have to do is “tighten” it up and that will solve your problem.
You will have to loosen and sometimes completely remove the part(s) and clean the surface area of the old gasket and sometimes a sealant that has seemed to become part of the part but isnt and if you leave it it will leak if not immediately sometime down the road.
however....
after doing all these areas while your motor is out or disassembled you will have a “tightened up” motor....
with new gaskets of course!-).
Dunno.....itsalottaworka.....leak...leak..leak.... maybe just leave it for the next time.....leak...those valve covers are a pita....leak....tighten........................... leak
good luck
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I has to be the oil cooler. I cant physically see the leak. But everything is wet underneath it. Now do I need the whole kit or can I just get the orings? Is there a way to just delete this cooler and add my own fin style cooler? This things like 300 bucks. Could I use that oil stop leak from Lucas?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 434
Likes: 2
From: Santa Cruz Mountains
Dunno your searching abilities but a google search of “deleting oil cooler on idi diesel” turned up oil cooler kits for under 200 and the following thread on deleting oil cooler on idi diesel....duh....good luck
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/o...-bypass.39379/
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/o...-bypass.39379/
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,585
Likes: 5,613
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i would not delete. yes you can just change the o-rings.
valve cover gaskets are a pain in the asterisk. i have to snug mine up every 6 months or so. a1/4 turn can make the difference between a wet or dry engine.
valve cover gaskets are a pain in the asterisk. i have to snug mine up every 6 months or so. a1/4 turn can make the difference between a wet or dry engine.