Remove Oil Pan

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Jan 5, 2011 | 05:07 PM

mudguts

Thread Starter

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 245

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From: Salome Arizona

Remove Oil Pan

Hi I was wondering if anyone has any pointers on removing the oil pan on a 85 F-250 6.9, had a knock drained oil through one of the wifes nylons and found small bits of metal thinking main bearings? Thanks in advance.

Jan 5, 2011 | 05:25 PM

91dirtydiesel

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Joined: Nov 2008

Posts: 2,851

Likes: 3

From: Buckley, WA

Diesel Engines

<table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center">

</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> RTV sealant and dowel location for the diesel oil pan
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table>

Disconnect both battery ground cables.
Remove the engine oil dipstick.
Remove the transmission oil dipstick.
Remove the air cleaner and cover the intake opening.
Remove the fan and fan clutch.

The fan uses left hand threads. Remove them by turning them clockwise.

Drain the cooling system.

<table class="notetable" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="noteclass_caution"> CAUTION </td> </tr> <tr> <td> When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

Disconnect the lower radiator hose.
Disconnect the power steering return hose and plug the line and pump.
Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
Disconnect the fuel line heater connector from the alternator.
Raise and support the front end on jackstand.
On trucks with automatic transmission, disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the radiator and plug the lines.
Disconnect and plug the fuel pump inlet lines.
Drain the crankcase and remove the oil filter.
Remove the engine oil filler tube.
Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold.
Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe from the muffler and remove the pipe.
Remove the upper inlet mounting stud from the right exhaust manifold.
Unbolt the engine from the No.1 crossmember.
Lower the vehicle.
Install lifting brackets on the front of the engine.
Raise the engine until the transmission contacts the bottom of the firewall.
Install wood blocks (2<sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inch; on the left side; 2 inch; on the right side) between the engine insulators and crossmember.
Lower the engine onto the block.
Raise and support the front end on jackstand.
Remove the flywheel inspection plate.
Position fuel pump inlet line No.1 rearward of the crossmember and position the oil cooler lines out of the way
Remove the oil pan bolts.
Lower the oil pan.

The oil pan is sealed to the crankcase with RTV silicone sealant in place of a gasket. It may be necessary to separate the pan from the crankcase with a utility knife.
The crankshaft may have to be turned to allow the pan to clear the crankshaft throws.

Clean the pan and crankcase mating surfaces thoroughly.

To install:

Apply a <sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub> inch; bead of RTV silicone sealant to the pan mating surfaces, and a <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inch; bead on the front and rear covers and in the corners. You have 15 minutes within which to install the pan!
Install locating dowels (which you supply) into position.
Position the pan on the engine and install the pan bolts loosely.
Remove the dowels.
Torque the pan bolts to 7 ft. lbs. for <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> inch-20 bolts; 14 ft. lbs. for <sup>5</sup>/<sub>16</sub> inch-18 bolts; 24 ft. lbs. for <sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub> inch-16 bolts.
Install the flywheel inspection cover.
Lower the truck.
Raise the engine and remove the wood blocks.
Lower the engine onto the crossmember and remove the lifting brackets.
Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
Torque the engine-to-crossmember nuts to 70 ft. lbs.
Install the upper inlet pipe mounting stud.
Install the inlet pipe, using a new gasket.
Install the transmission oil filler tube, using a new gasket.
Install the oil pan drain plug.
Install a new oil filter.
Connect the fuel pump inlet line. Make sure that the clip is installed on the crossmember.
Connect the transmission cooler lines.
Lower the truck.
Connect all wiring.
Connect the power steering return line.
Connect the lower radiator hose.
Install the fan and fan clutch.

The fan uses left hand threads. Install them by turning them counterclockwise.

Remove the cover and install the air cleaner.
Install the dipsticks.
Fill the crankcase.
Fill and bleed the cooling system.
Fill the power steering reservoir.
Connect the batteries.
Run the engine and check for leaks.

Jan 5, 2011 | 05:32 PM

snaponprofile

Cargo Master

Joined: Feb 2010

Posts: 3,493

Likes: 3

From: NY

Some people say its easier to pull the engine, thats what I would do.

Jan 5, 2011 | 05:46 PM

91dirtydiesel

Postmaster

Joined: Nov 2008

Posts: 2,851

Likes: 3

From: Buckley, WA

Personally I would remove engine as well

Jan 5, 2011 | 06:59 PM

mudguts

Thread Starter

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 245

Likes: 0

From: Salome Arizona

Thank You for the info, I have owned this pickup for less than a year so I guess it's time I get to know it, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions, as If I have to pull the engine I think I will just rebuild as well.