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No problem. With the battery negative cables dissconnected, and the PCM disconnected from the PCM harness (10mm bolt), set your multimeter on ohms, and put one test probe on pin 84 on the PCM connector, and the other on one of the TSS connector pins. There should be continuity between those two points. Repeat for pin 91 on the PCM connector, to the other TSS connector pin.
i got resistance from pin 91 to the lighter colored wire and resistance from the green wire to pin 84 but no vice versa it sounds like i wanted that so does that mean the harness is good?
i got resistance from pin 91 to the lighter colored wire and resistance from the green wire to pin 84 but no vice versa it sounds like i wanted that so does that mean the harness is good?
A nice low resistance, under 5 ohms? If so, then yes, your harness appears to be good. How do the contact pins look on the TSS connector and the PCM connector? Could you take and post pictures for us?
A nice low resistance, under 5 ohms? If so, then yes, your harness appears to be good. How do the contact pins look on the TSS connector and the PCM connector? Could you take and post pictures for us?
the resistance was around 0.1, 0.2 and would zero itself out same as i got when i tapped the leads together pictures will follow from my phone shortly
I see one of the tabs has broken off the TSS connector - this might reduce the holding pressure of the connector to the sensor. It has to be fully seated for the pins to make good contact. I found that out when trying to get a marginal transfer case motor connector to stay engaged with a broken latch. Ended up zip-tying it in place. Do you think this TSS pigtail mates firmly enough? Want to try a zip tie or other means to secure it and pull it tightly against the sensor?
I'm pushing the wiring/connector issue route because, if the sensor is new/good, this is the more typical failure point. The PCM being faulty on this circuit is possible, but not likely.
What is the resistance you measure between the pins of the new sensor and the old sensor? Want to see if they are similar. Need to know the normal range for it.
Does anyone know the resistance this TSS sensor should ring out at?
Anyone have pinpoint tests handy for the TSS? I'm afraid I still have not set up and learned how to use the FSM.
I should have looked in the Tech folder thread at the top of the forum. The pinpoint test we need is there, at least for a 2000 and a 2001 truck. We'll see if there's useful info for your 2002.
Here is the resistance measurement for the TSS. I think we are looking for 781 to 1979 ohms across the 2 pins of the sensor.
To Colorado350's point, the new sensor, if not motorcraft brand, can be suspect, right out of the box. Even OEM sensors can be bad out of the box, we've found recently, but chances of qood quality are better with OEM sensors.
Unfortunately I did not keep the old sensor. It’s a duralast brand which I’ve had good luck with on my old dodge but there’s always a possibility. I’ll give the sensor a test in the morning and see what they are reading.
If you'd like, you can set up FORScan to read the TSS PID directly. I just did it on my truck. See the PID names on the screen below.
It will read some amount of rpm with the engine idling, in park, if all is working. It might be a way to check for an intermittent connection or broken wire.
I did have the no fault code set up on my computer and it never threw a fault even as the OD light was blinking and I knows what codes it was pulling. I just pulled the resistance and it read 1088 ohms which is in regs. Looks like it’s going to be the PCM.
Unless you need it right now, you could send your PCM to Diesel Technology of Chattanooga for testing. The testing costs $45 and if they find a problem they can fix it in house. I saw the other day they've thrown re-tinning the contacts in w/ the test procedure, which I thought was cool. Several members here have used them and I've yet to see a negative comment about them.
Unless you need it right now, you could send your PCM to Diesel Technology of Chattanooga for testing. The testing costs $45 and if they find a problem they can fix it in house. I saw the other day they've thrown re-tinning the contacts in w/ the test procedure, which I thought was cool. Several members here have used them and I've yet to see a negative comment about them.
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