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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jul 7, 2021 | 07:30 PM
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I recently purchased a 1986 F150 Ext Cab, 302 efi, and it has been sitting for years. Owner said it lost spark and he parked it. My coworker said he replaced the cap, rotor, coil, solenoid, and the module on the distributor and still had no luck. From what I understand there is power everywhere else, im thinking the pickup in the distributor went bad. Just want to see what you guys thought and any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

 
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Old Jul 7, 2021 | 07:50 PM
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Make sure you pull the codes. If you are going to buy this truck, you need to know how to talk to the computer and get information from it. All you need is a couple of wires and a testlight. No code reader needed. If it says you are missing a serious signal from the distributor, then I would agree it might be the pickup inside it.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 07:39 AM
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That looks like an awesome find!
Why not do the research here and install the DS2 ignition system?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 08:27 AM
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I found corrosion on the terminals at the coil. Make sure those connections are good. Mine had a weak connection inside the OEM connector. have bought the correct terminals too for future use.




 
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Timehunter
That looks like an awesome find!
Why not do the research here and install the DS2 ignition system?
He is fuel injected. A lot more stuff would have to be changed. He could swap to a carb and change the fuel system around, but that would be a last resort.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 04:03 PM
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Update:

Checked the power going to the coil, and it had no power when cranking. Swapped coils and with a little gas it fired off. Now I noticed the fuel pumps are not working. Was wondering whats a good way to bypass the rear tank and just run it off the front.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 05:20 PM
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Does your electrical switch work? You can get one of the pumps to run? If so, you can get under there and along the frame under the driver's door there is a switching valve. It's all mechanical, the pump pressure switches the valve. You will have a 3/8 line and a 5/16 line from each tank. The 3/8 is supply, the 5/16 is the return. And then you will have a single 3/8 and a single 5/16 going up front to the high pressure pump, and then on to the engine.

You can take the pump/tank that is working, take the lines loose from the valve, and then take the lines going up front, and splice them together. I have had good success with just using short pieces of 3/8 and 5/16 fuel line and hose clamps, and using that to splice the plastic lines together. Just make sure you do not over tighten the clamps and collapse the plastic line inside.

If both pumps will run, the valve is most likely your problem. They like to get sticky.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 05:30 PM
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The switch on the dash works, but it does not run the pumps from the key.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2021 | 05:33 PM
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Here's where the/your selector valve is, and the high pressure pump further forward. Note, your selector valve will have more ports, I don't have a rear tank. The high pressure pump is near the bottom of the firewall where it bends back under the truck.




The fuel filter is also inside it.

A better picture after I cleaned the area. Those lines are QD's remove the U shaped clip and slide the connector off the port.

 
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ilijad7579
The switch on the dash works, but it does not run the pumps from the key.
The computer runs the pumps via the fuel pump relay. Should prime the pumps when you first turn the key, and then stop. It then looks for signals from the distributor before the computer will run the pumps all the time to verify the engine is actually turning.
 
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