I have a 92 Exp. Over the last year my 4x4 system has been giving me problems. When I try to engage 4W High I hear a clicking like it is trying to engage by never does. Sometimes it takes several tries and sometimes won't engage at all. Any ideas? Thanks.

Jesse

 

Try cleaning the t-case shift motor. This is a very common problem on Gen 1 X's. Here's the link to the Singleton site explaining how to do it.
http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html

 

I'll give it a try. Thanks.

 

has anyone done this?? Is it ez to do and about how long did it take

 

First I broke a hub, so I put Warn hubs on. Then it wouldn't go into 4X4. I found the web site mentioned above and followed the instructions to clean the armature and reset the neutral reference. I cut the wire they are talking about and put a connecter on it. (There is a post toward the bottom that tells how to pull the pin so you don't have to cut it. ) I also disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the computer.

It worked in the driveway and then quit again (At the beach.) I re-read the posts and realized that I hadn't checked the nylon stop that "Contributed by Joe Mp" talked about. I took it back apart and used some fuel line.

It worked fine hanging loose. I bolted it up and it didn't work again. I loosened the bolts & it worked. Took it back apart and could see where the shaft was hitting on the end of the case.

Made a gasket and used a die grinder to give it more clearance, but it still wouldn't work when I would tighten it up. I was in a hurry, so I used two or three washers for spacers on each bolt and a lot of silicone. It works great. Seven months later and I still haven't taken it apart to "fix it right".

Has anyone converted their electric shift to a maunal shift?

RandyD

 

Thanks Randy!!....I just bought a haynes repair book off ebay so hopefully that has step by steps, i want to make sure am doing it right before i get it off and then something goes wrong thanks

 

Randy can you send me the post that tells you how to pull the pins i could not find it at the bottom like you said. But i have a question for anyone whos done this, i was looking on ebay at the new shift engagment motors, and they should a picture of the front and back......and i dont see why you have to cut or remove any of the wires from the motor, it just looks like it goes to the wiring harness then you look in the back and the wires dont go any were on the transfer case. Can someone clear this up for me??? THNAnKS

 

You will find how to pull the pin in the link I first posted under "Greg D" half way through. You will most likely also find the brown wire is attached to your transfer case where you have 2 choices, cut or pull.

 

Basshman is right. It is under: "Contributed by Greg D." sect 1.
I cut the wire and put a connector on it so it would be easy to pull again out in the boonies.

Also,when you unbolt the counerweight, you can leave one bolt in and let it hang down.

RandyD 94 Exlporer

 

Thanks Randy and Bashmen!!!!!!

 

Hey, i found this site i just want to know if this guy is right, minus taking the blue thing off https://www.ford-trucks.com/TCaseshiftmotor.htm
and should i use contact cleaner to clean the brush's? Or will just a plain Q-tip due, thanks, am planning on attempting this on monday, i'll let you know how it goes, i have my fingers crossed, im going to go to the store tommarow get contact cleaner and conecters is there anything else i should pick up to do this?

 

I did it a second time using emery cloth and it works fine now...but i have to hit it 3 times before the light comes on, but if i do it when i driving i can feel and hear it on but the light is not on so i have to hit it again and once more and the light will come on

 

I put my trany in neutral, slowly push the button, hold it for about one second and slowly let off. Then the light comes on.

Did you replace the plastic "bump stop" with fuel line?

RandyD

 

I just followed the steps and fixed the motor on my 94 last night. It works great, but I wasn't ablt to get the part open where the "printed circuit" is. Any suggestions in case this needs to be done in the future?

 

THE part with all the wires going into??? I did not open that up, mine works just fine as long as its working i would not bother because you have to get the allignment just right or it wont work