Khris’s Question thread
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 64
Likes: 7
From: BFE
Khris’s Question thread
Hey guys, I’m gonna start a thread for my questions on these Ol’ 7.3’s. Lord knows I have plenty of them lol.
The first couple I have are 1. I have an intermittent ABS light, it pops up at first startup but if I drive a couple feet and restart the truck it’ll go away. But if it sits not running any longer than 15 minutes it comes back on startup. I don’t mind it but I hate seeing that amber light lol.
2. I do A LOT of highway driving, and I live in Nevada so most of the highways I use are 80 mph, with that being said cruising at 80 I’m pushing at 2900 rpm. I’m looking to lower my cruising rpms. I was looking at going the GearVenders OD route but they’re pretty spendy. Are there any other routes I could take? I heard bigger tires will help but I’d have to recalibrate the PSOM. Any input on either of these is appreciated.
The first couple I have are 1. I have an intermittent ABS light, it pops up at first startup but if I drive a couple feet and restart the truck it’ll go away. But if it sits not running any longer than 15 minutes it comes back on startup. I don’t mind it but I hate seeing that amber light lol.
2. I do A LOT of highway driving, and I live in Nevada so most of the highways I use are 80 mph, with that being said cruising at 80 I’m pushing at 2900 rpm. I’m looking to lower my cruising rpms. I was looking at going the GearVenders OD route but they’re pretty spendy. Are there any other routes I could take? I heard bigger tires will help but I’d have to recalibrate the PSOM. Any input on either of these is appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,815
Likes: 707
From: Tobyhanma, PA
Recalibrating the psom is easy. It's like a 5 minutes task. So taller tires would be easy depending on what tires you want to go with and the cost.
Gear swaps aren't too bad. Just labor intensive.
Gear vendors are nice but as you mentioned, expensive. They're also not meant to handle alot of torque.
Gear swaps aren't too bad. Just labor intensive.
Gear vendors are nice but as you mentioned, expensive. They're also not meant to handle alot of torque.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 64
Likes: 7
From: BFE
Time to blow the dust off
Well gentlemen, I have a few more spitballs to bounce off of ya. Have yet to play with a regear or tires. Haven’t had to put my Ol’Girl on the road too much this past year, that being said there’s a couple issues I’d like to address before work picks back up and I have to hop on the road.
Cruise Control: She’s pretty old being as she’s a 94 but did the Millennial AntiTheft models come with Cruise? I have the cruise buttons on my wheel.
Intermittent Check Engine Light: I gave her some love and threw some new FFD 180/30’s in it in about April of last year, drove it with no tunes for a bit to get the injectors settled in but here a few months ago I got some Jelibuilt tunes and if I go past 1/2 throttle on any of my power adder tunes I get a check engine light. No loss of power no funky sounds just a light.
Clunky Sounds after warm: When I get off the road and sit idling I get a pretty violent shutter every now and then, it seems to come from the engine but I have no idea. And then on top of that, I get a loud clunk from what seems like my trans at idle. A buddy of mine said it’s the clutch fork but I’m not sure.
I know she’s a pretty lengthy list of stuff but any and all input is welcome and much appreciated. Thanks guys!
Cruise Control: She’s pretty old being as she’s a 94 but did the Millennial AntiTheft models come with Cruise? I have the cruise buttons on my wheel.
Intermittent Check Engine Light: I gave her some love and threw some new FFD 180/30’s in it in about April of last year, drove it with no tunes for a bit to get the injectors settled in but here a few months ago I got some Jelibuilt tunes and if I go past 1/2 throttle on any of my power adder tunes I get a check engine light. No loss of power no funky sounds just a light.
Clunky Sounds after warm: When I get off the road and sit idling I get a pretty violent shutter every now and then, it seems to come from the engine but I have no idea. And then on top of that, I get a loud clunk from what seems like my trans at idle. A buddy of mine said it’s the clutch fork but I’m not sure.
I know she’s a pretty lengthy list of stuff but any and all input is welcome and much appreciated. Thanks guys!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Intermittent Check Engine Light: I gave her some love and threw some new FFD 180/30’s in it in about April of last year, drove it with no tunes for a bit to get the injectors settled in but here a few months ago I got some Jelibuilt tunes and if I go past 1/2 throttle on any of my power adder tunes I get a check engine light. No loss of power no funky sounds just a light.!
You'll need to upgrade your HPOP. T500 from Terminator is good choice.
Clunky Sounds after warm: When I get off the road and sit idling I get a pretty violent shutter every now and then, it seems to come from the engine but I have no idea. And then on top of that, I get a loud clunk from what seems like my trans at idle. A buddy of mine said it’s the clutch fork but I’m not sure.!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 100
Likes: 16
I get the same thing fairly often. It goes away if I feather the accelerator. The tach reads normal. i have no idea if it is fuel, oil pressure, or wires, but it feels like misfiring. curious what others think.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Usually broken spring(s) in injectors causing a rough idle.
Trending Topics
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 100
Likes: 16
see, that's what i like about this place. somebody helping me rationalize spending money on my truck!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Tuned
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 294
Likes: 81
From: Wichita, KS
Intermittent Check Engine Light: I gave her some love and threw some new FFD 180/30’s in it in about April of last year, drove it with no tunes for a bit to get the injectors settled in but here a few months ago I got some Jelibuilt tunes and if I go past 1/2 throttle on any of my power adder tunes I get a check engine light. No loss of power no funky sounds just a light.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
How much boost are you putting out while accelerating? It's possible it's too much for the MAP, a boost relief valve will help with this so the computer only sees what you allow but you still get full boost. I never had the check engine come on, but some have reported this issue.
Now a bad map sensor does some weeeeeird *** stuff though. But not at idle.
If you get rough idle, it's usually broken springs/ worn injectors.
The trucks only need like 45-50psi to idle, but they do everything better in the 60-75psi fuel range.
Same with oil, if you're not running enough oil, it doesn't care at idle, the DC%'s are so low the stock 15 can keep up no problem.
So if you add a smidge of fuel and it cleans it up a bit, then the shudder is most likely injector related. or if anything fuel pressure related. but probably not. If it drives good, but idles rough, its probably injector springs or worn out injectors.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 64
Likes: 7
From: BFE
So if you add a smidge of fuel and it cleans it up a bit, then the shudder is most likely injector related. or if anything fuel pressure related. but probably not. If it drives good, but idles rough, its probably injector springs or worn out injectors.[/QUOTE]
Injectors probably have just over 10,000 on them. It has something to do with load if I slowly release the clutch at like a stop light it’ll creep and if I just barely blip the brake and load it down a little it does the shutter. Could it be IPR related? I had a bad IPR just after I bought it a year and a half ago, I put an Alliant replacement in not knowing any better. Just good for thought.
Injectors probably have just over 10,000 on them. It has something to do with load if I slowly release the clutch at like a stop light it’ll creep and if I just barely blip the brake and load it down a little it does the shutter. Could it be IPR related? I had a bad IPR just after I bought it a year and a half ago, I put an Alliant replacement in not knowing any better. Just good for thought.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post