When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
76 F100 4x4.
Found bottom of Cowl vent rusted where it meets the firewall and extends out towards the engine compartment. Top and sides appear to be fine. The body shop/paint guy that came out to give me an estimate recommended I find a full cab with a good vent box. That may be the answer but asking FTE if you all have any suggestions on repair/refabricating the existing cowl. Thanks for any ideas you have. Regards. Jiyuu/Todd
You're on the west coast and rust free cabs are cheap. if you have the cab off I'd just put a new on on, if not maybe welding in one from a donor would be easier than changing cabs I don't know . I don't like any rust repairs so I know what I'd do.
76 F100 4x4.
Found bottom of Cowl vent rusted where it meets the firewall and extends out towards the engine compartment. Top and sides appear to be fine. The body shop/paint guy that came out to give me an estimate recommended I find a full cab with a good vent box. That may be the answer but asking FTE if you all have any suggestions on repair/refabricating the existing cowl. Thanks for any ideas you have. Regards. Jiyuu/Todd
It would depend on the end game you want for the truck ,,show truck , or driver , and even then it can be fixed if that's the only issue ,,one its never going to be seen that much and if done right will look as factory ,,if floors are solid and rest of cab solid then I would repair
Thanks 72. It will be a driver/street show +-. It will be a keeper not going to sell it. I agree with no one is going to see it so fabricating a new bottom with it properly protected then held in place with seam seal, butyl tape and screws would probably be weather tight. With it being a fully enclosed component it is tricky welding a patch in place. Any exterior weld would burn the protective covering inside the cowl. I will give it a go in trying to find a full cab with the cowl in good shape if the price is right. I do need to replace a portion of one of the floor pans and Dr. up the fire wall but that is not a big deal. Thanks again. Todd
Another factor to consider comes up if you plan to install an aftermarket A/C system. Most, maybe all, of them block-off and re-purpose the fresh air plenum on the passenger side in order to route the hi/low-pressure hoses along the outside of the inner fender sheet metal and away from the exhaust manifold. In other words, they sacrifice fresh air intake which renders all of this space useless.
I suppose that there are all sorts of things you could do with that space but the only application that I have seen so far is to fill the fresh air intake grille between the windshield wipers.
the only application that I have seen so far is to fill the fresh air intake grille between the windshield wipers.
That reminds me of something. 25 year ago I had a 65 mustang and someone makes a lexan cover for the cowl. To block it off. I'll see if I can find a picture of one
Heres one. They have thumb screw ***** with spring and t on bottom. Put over push down and turn 90* to hold in place gasket seals it off Would need to get creative to make one for truck but it can be done or maybe someone already makes some
Thanks for all the info 77. I had not thought of and external lid. I had thought of running some ducts under the hood to the grill but that would look bad when looking under the hood. Once again thanks for the pics and ideas. I will look into it further
Thanks flowney. The only AC I plan on is the old "62". My primary objective is to repair the cowl as original as possible keeping it weather tight/resistant and to maintain its original purpose.
Thanks sixpack. Currently searching for cabs. As mentioned in this thread another option since I am keeping the truck would be to fabricate a new bottom and with seam seal/butyl tape with screws attach the weatherized and painted new bottom piece in place. Not perfect but but should hold up for a great many years. Regards. Todd/jiyuu
Thanks 72. It will be a driver/street show +-. It will be a keeper not going to sell it. I agree with no one is going to see it so fabricating a new bottom with it properly protected then held in place with seam seal, butyl tape and screws would probably be weather tight. With it being a fully enclosed component it is tricky welding a patch in place. Any exterior weld would burn the protective covering inside the cowl. I will give it a go in trying to find a full cab with the cowl in good shape if the price is right. I do need to replace a portion of one of the floor pans and Dr. up the fire wall but that is not a big deal. Thanks again. Todd
If you don't want to weld it use the panel adhesive they have now.
Have you looked at the cowl sides behind the fenders? It may affect your decision on cab replacement. I'm more of a nut and bolt person, not a welder or bodyman. I replaced my cab because of rust in roof over windshield. Replaced box for rust also. Both were weekend projects by myself. Engine hoist, lift hooks and chains. A couple of extra hands would have been helpful.
5851a. Yes I have an endoscope camera so weaved my way around. Damage is mostly on the bottom and extends towards the engine compartment. It does not extend down into the vent/drain passage to the cab.
You can still have a patch welded in - you would just need to recoat the repaired area to ward off further rust. That's what I would try to do if it's doable.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
