Hi everyone, would just like to start off and say this is such an awesome community. There's so much knowledge and great people on here, I've been a long time lurker and you know how the story goes, I apologize for this lengthy post ahead of time...

Im currently in the process of putting the front axle back in my 81 f150. It's been one hell of a project (frame off) as I've been trying to do everything myself, including the bodywork. Having had a career in mech assembly (avaition refulers, trucks, etc..) I feel like I have had a decent understanding of mechanics up until this point. I'm struggling with this dam camber bushing on the passenger side.

I honestly thought the hardest part was going to be replacing the axle pivot bushing or pressing the old ball joints out but that all went smoothly.. The issue I'm having is the camber bushing won't seat all the way into the knuckle. It sits fine in there without the kuckle and the driver side dropped right in and went together without a problem. The joints are also extremely stiff once installed. I know this is fairly normal but I can't even turn them without both hands and most my weight on them.

It's almost as if the taper is too wide on the stud itself, I know it's not because it's the same joint that's used on the other side. I've even tried using the old bushing as well as swapping both joints out between the knuckles themselves, their both moog brand. Short of the inner C channel being bent I'm not sure what else it could be. I've taken both knuckles off multiple times and compared as well as taken measurements of the channel. As far as I can tell theres not a difference at all between either side. In a desperate attempt I'm going to throw the drivers knuckle on the passenger side later today..

I've been banging my head at this for a couple months now. And it's come to the point where I'm either going to have to find another axle from a yard (I'd rather not), cut the bushing down, or muster up my wallet and pride and have this outsourced. The trucks really not mobile so I'm not even sure how I'd accomplish this unless I take the I beam back out. And drop it off at a local shop around here..

Im attaching a couple pics of each side although I'm not sure how much help it will be. If more are needed please let me know. I appreciate your guy's time and any feedback or advise that any of you might have. Thank you

 

As long as it wedges tight on the balljoint and in the knuckle, there should not be a problem. The alignment guy will have to bust all that loose anyway and adjust them, unless you carefully marked them and put them back where they were.

 

P.S. the lower balljoint should be tight also. You should tighten the lower joint first, and then the upper one. I wonder if the other side that is lower, is the lower balljoint wedged in tight? Or did you tighten the upper joint first and it won the battle, and the lower joint on that side is not wedged in tight?

 

Franklin thanks for the input. I thought the very same at first, in regards to the lower joint not being tighten first or not seating correctly. I must of read the service manual a half dozen times at least. I wouldn't have been concerned had the bushing sat in the seat at least. Trying to tighten it without it sitting in there a little it would of just spun and not held any alignment. God knows I tried..

After looking at it again tonight I finally figured it out. I remembered reading somewhere about moog or some replacement ball joints having more taper added to account for wear or the slop that develops with a bad joint. I ended up sanding a slight taper into the first 1/4 inch into the kuckle where the upper ball joint seats. Worked like a dream and the spindle is much easier to turn now on both sides.

I also threw the new set of coils on tonight and finished off with the rattle can. As far as the alignment goes, I'll probably end up doing it as I have still have permission to use the hunter at my old job. I always hated driving any small vehicles in there because the pit is super wide (close to 6ft). The inner tires on most the duallys would be hanging off in the pit. It was even worse in the winter with a short wheel base. Most the trucks were just a cab and chassis so they would slide around quite a bit when you had to back them in. It was production so no going back through or holding the line up. I don't miss it most days.

I just want to say thanks again, everyone is pretty friendly here and always seems to being willing to help out or lend an ear at the very least. I'll definitely be sticking around here. And will have to post a few more pics once she gets the doors back on. It's starting to look like a truck again, slowly but surely..

 

You probably already know this, but drive it a little bit and let those new coils settle before you align it. Also let the weight down on the frontend before tightening the center pivot bushings and the radius arm bushings.

 

Radius arm bushings it does not matter they can be tightened with the suspension loaded or unloaded. Pivot bushing needs to be done with the suspension loaded.