Front axle assembly..
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
Front axle assembly..
does anyone know the Dana Spicer part number for the front Axle assembly? I cannot get the joints out and need to get new axle assemblies... I got the new joints (SPL55-3X). They are siezed.. 20 ton press couldn't budge them out...
I looked on the Dana aftermarket site but could not locate the axle assembly.
Thanks,
Andy
I looked on the Dana aftermarket site but could not locate the axle assembly.
Thanks,
Andy
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 515
20T ain't that much but I think you're being wasteful. I've always used a ball joint press and a BFH to shock it once loaded up. Worst case cut the cross out and then deal with the caps from there. The heat from cutting often goes a long way.
NOW, to answer your actual question: no, I don't. I'd probably call Randy's R&P unless it happens to be listed on RA. If you have your BOM tag on the cover still you can punch that into the Dana Expert site.
NOW, to answer your actual question: no, I don't. I'd probably call Randy's R&P unless it happens to be listed on RA. If you have your BOM tag on the cover still you can punch that into the Dana Expert site.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 515
The suggestion above for press + air hammer is equally good. Mayhew sells those "hammer head" attachments, available on Amazon.
Not to be insulting, but you did remove all the c-clips, yes? After that it's just press, vibration, repeat. If that fails it's press, heat, vibration, repeat. If that fails it's cut the cross and go from there.
Go ahead and spray some penetrating lube, even if it's only on the tiny bit of cap you can see *inside* the yoke ears. Then at least as that one is being pushed out it'll drag some lube into the hole with it.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
Yeah, for the larger D60 joints that does suck unless you're running a BJP1. I'm not but I built a custom cup that stays in place. Otherwise it's pretty much a 2-person job.
The suggestion above for press + air hammer is equally good. Mayhew sells those "hammer head" attachments, available on Amazon.
Not to be insulting, but you did remove all the c-clips, yes? After that it's just press, vibration, repeat. If that fails it's press, heat, vibration, repeat. If that fails it's cut the cross and go from there.
Go ahead and spray some penetrating lube, even if it's only on the tiny bit of cap you can see *inside* the yoke ears. Then at least as that one is being pushed out it'll drag some lube into the hole with it.
The suggestion above for press + air hammer is equally good. Mayhew sells those "hammer head" attachments, available on Amazon.
Not to be insulting, but you did remove all the c-clips, yes? After that it's just press, vibration, repeat. If that fails it's press, heat, vibration, repeat. If that fails it's cut the cross and go from there.
Go ahead and spray some penetrating lube, even if it's only on the tiny bit of cap you can see *inside* the yoke ears. Then at least as that one is being pushed out it'll drag some lube into the hole with it.
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