These problems cant be solved without a multimeter and a test light. You can swap around parts and you may get lucky, but thats very expensive and time consuming. Ive reviewed the starting system on your generation truck and its very similar to a conventional system; theres no computer between you and the starter. You mentioned that the truck starts perfectly when its cold; that rules out bad starter cables or bad engine ground. You also mentioned that its not clicking or making any noise when you turn the key; thats an indicator that the fender mounted relay isnt working. That could be because its worn out, or because its not getting power from the ignition switch, or its not getting a good ground through the mounting screws. Your second place to look is your ignition switch or clutch pedal switch. These things are in a tempurature-controlled and dust-controlled enviornment, so i doubt theyre causing a problem. Focus on your fender mounted relay.

 

Another simple thing to look at is the signal wire going from the ignition key to the starter relay on the fender. It uses a crappy push-on connector.


I had symptoms similar to yours where turning the key resulted in absolutely nothing. Electrical stuff all worked fine but not a click from the relay or anything. I eventually replaced the push-on connector with a proper ring terminal and fastened it to the starter relay with a nut.

 

I chased a very similar issue on mine. Disconnect the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover and look for wires that have rubbed through. I looked for days just to have a local Ford guru go straight to it. Might no be the problem for you but is a quick 10min check off the list.
good luck.

 

ZF6 or automatic?
Unless I’m reading this wrong it sounds like the OP has no reaction from the starter system when trying to start but all else is normal. sounds like a problem with the signal to starter.

Auto, try it in neutral. Or shake shifter while trying to start.
check the 2 bolts under the dash for the shifter. Neutral start switch…

ZF6, check clutch switch etc.

Heck, worst case run a jumper to the starter solenoid until you get it figured out.

 

I got the adapters FREE from my local Norfolk Southern train repair shop they use to have these adapters laying around by the dozens. Remember every time they purchased a new pickup or 1-ton truck they purchased new adapters so their truck tires can have contact on the train rails for the pickup trucks to ride on the train tracks. Check your local rail car and see if they will give you a set. The only downside is the fact that these are made of steel not iron and weigh about 45lbs each. I was shocked at how much it affected my braking that I had to upgrade my brakes to compensate for the additional unsprung weight that this free solution gave me. But I was able to run 19.5 with no additional upgrades.

 

Hey guys I did slow down and I stopped whining and I read thru the advice that you guys gave me. There was lots of great advice and solutions for me to track down this problem with my multimeter and a little bit of patience. My grandfather also told me to try the cheapest fix first. I drove my truck approximately 30 miles and parked it at home and you know it no start. Listening to the advice from you guys, I checked and I did have voltage on the small starter wire when the key was turned. I then did the trick that you'll suggest and '' jumped'' across the selonoid and amazingly the truck started right up. Thank you guys for putting up with my bad grammar and run-on sentences. but you guys were still here to help me. I have now driven the truck 5 times with no issues. I read my receipts and I was surprised to no end that 4 ford dealerships and 2 independent garages that I carried/towed my truck to and not one of them checked or replaced the solenoid on my truck. It was the original selonoid on my truck. I feel like I have been cheated of my money and enjoyment time with my truck. I will go to my local ford dealer and ask the service manager (who knows me now) and ask him why his trained ford service techs had not looked at or check the seloniod on my truck. I just would like to hear his answer and I'll let you know. Have not towed my boat yet the last few times that I towed I notice that the oil temp would reach 200 degrees quite easily and also the tranny temp would easily get to 200 degrees in stop-and-go traffic. I have been told by other ''experts'' that this is a common problem with 7.3's of my year. The ''experts'' said that the common fix is to check the fan clutch replace the water pump and swap out the oil cooler for a bigger one. Does this sound right guys?

 

Thanks for you help I think the starting problem is solved so far with you guys help.

 

That oil temp is no problem and 200* is considered the top limit for ‘safe’ transmission temps.

You can upgrade your radiator to one that includes a transmission cooler (2001+ models came this way) and upgrade to a 6.0 transmission cooler to reduce transmission temps.

It’s rare that the water pump would cause a problem and unlikely the fan clutch is malfunctioning.

Im glad your starting problem is fixed and I’m mad as hell you were ripped off by incompetent shmucks. I would ask for my money back and hand him a draft of your scathing google review and explain that will be the beginning of your smear campaign. Be sure the dealership owner or general manager is aware of how wrong this service was.

 

That's pretty much how they make their money. I'd be lying if I said I haven't been hosed down by a repair shop once or twice and it'll learn ya pretty quick.

Now there are certain situations where it can make sense to let somebody else do the work. For instance I am going to let the local Ford dealer repair my A/C system here soon. They quoted me a price on a new compressor that was just as good as Riff-raff's along with a new drier and orfice tube so this bill will mostly be parts anyway. If I let them do the work they have to warranty the parts and labor for 2 years which seems like a smart idea. If I just take the parts home I'm on my own with that and it's a little harder to come back and complain if something isn't right. It would have to go to a shop anyway to get charged properly.

 

I would make it a point to corner that dealership and be the squeaky wheel. That's diagnostics 101and they failed at your expense. I mean come on!! Follow Jason's Advice!

"The experts" are full of crap....Oil cooler on these trucks does a fine job, the only thing that should even be on your radar is changing the oil cooler orings, usually they start leaking when it turns cold out, they become brittle & stiff.

For the trans cooler, i tried to do a writeup on a common swap (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-a-7-3-a.html). This is the best and cheapest solution for the inadequate factory cooler. Read towards the end for an explanation for why the factory cooler is inadequate. This will put your trans temps in the 150-180 range towing heavy!

 

If my memory serves correctly...

Now I'm drawing a blank on the right Kevin, but Kevin the tranny guy that did the R&D on the 4R100 for Ford said you can run this tranny at 225 all day long without any ill effects. You can go up to 250, but for no more than 30 minutes before it needs time to cool down to normal operating temps.

Am I remembering right? I can't seem to find the thread he said that in, but I'm sure I remember those numbers correctly.

 

Would you recommend this starter over the 6.7 nose cone mod?

 

By Kevin do you mean Mark Kovalsky?

EDIT: This information is probably coming too late seeing as how you have already fixed your issue but the Trombetta 3-post relay is a great upgrade for the fender-mounted starter relay.
New OEM Trombetta Relay Solenoid 634-1241-212-02, 634-1241-212, 634-1241-212-2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EB8389Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lQdl9UixEsCZA

 

Yes, @Mark Kovalsky is exactly the Kevin I was talking about!

Wow, how did I screw that one up so bad..... that would explain why I couldn't find the thread...

 

I’ve read Mark’s comments about temps before, but I’ve seen the fluid is compromised (dark) after just a little while at 225*F. That was with a BTS transmission...

No harm in staying under 200* and I think that is a good goal. Not unlike keeping EGT under 1250*. We can go MUCH higher without immediate damage, but there is no reason to if everything is set up good.

No comparison. The Denso is FAR superior. It’s like 5.4HP and literally built like a tank. The 6.7 starter is actually less powerful than the standard 7.3 starters. I don’t really understand this mod... If I had to pick a stock-type starter, the Mitsubishi long-nose starter is probably the best.