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My heart sank when I heard the scraping. I was turning around in a neighbor's driveway and they have been doing some construction. Unbeknownst to me, they had moved their fire hydrant over about 20 feet from where it used to be. In my defense, I am color blind, and primer red is kind of invisible to me. In fact, even after I heard the scrape, I didn't see the darn thing. None-the-less, I ended up with a nice primer-color scrape on the rear driver's side door (see below).
So I got out my tub of Mother's and buffed out the primer color. Not completely done, but it looks much less awful after this.
My question is, how much should I expect to pay to get this to look like an uncreased door?
OUCH! At least the primer came off. I don't know enough about paintless repair but I guess anything is possible and what I would probably check into first.
My heart sank when I heard the scraping. I was turning around in a neighbor's driveway and they have been doing some construction. Unbeknownst to me, they had moved their fire hydrant over about 20 feet from where it used to be. In my defense, I am color blind, and primer red is kind of invisible to me. In fact, even after I heard the scrape, I didn't see the darn thing. None-the-less, I ended up with a nice primer-color scrape on the rear driver's side door (see below).
So I got out my tub of Mother's and buffed out the primer color. Not completely done, but it looks much less awful after this.
My question is, how much should I expect to pay to get this to look like an uncreased door?
I don't think this is a DIY project.
Whatever the cost of your comprehensive deductible is will be the cost. I had my rear door replaced for a similar mark. It was 5300.00 and I paid the 250.00 deductible.
I hate to say this and depending on your deductible, you’re going to be looking at a door replacement.
I‘d say your greater concern with the repair is matching the paint but as you mentioned, you’re kind of color blind so perhaps all will be okay for you.
If the paint isn't gouged through, and being a tightwad, I would contact a pointless dent repair guy. They all have smart phones so you could text them a picture to see what they say. Secondly, what about your step--was it bent too? If you're going to obsess over it, than maybe an insurance claim is in your future...however, it is still a truck.
That one is going to be tough for a PDR guy, but they may be able to make it "good enough" for a much lower price. Otherwise, that's a (sorry to say this) pretty big fix to get it back to "perfect".
Doesn't look horrible with the primer removed but you still need a new door and step.
My buddy drug his 2013 Ram along a yellow fire hydrant from his passenger side rear door to the bumper. He opened his truck up like a soda can. Those pesky hydrants! New door and new bed side and he's back to looking like nothing ever happened.
Thanks guys. Amazing that that little crease will require a new door. Is it that difficult to fill and paint these days, or do they just not do that kind of work any more? I don't think paintless is going to work because the sheet metal has an actual crease in it. The paint is not gouged through somehow, so maybe I will check with a paintless rep to see what's possible.
I'll match you. I stupidly turned to hard getting out of a parking garage space and scrapped my drivers door. I was looking over my right shoulder for traffic and any number of other dang concrete columns. I got a quote of nearly $4,500 to repair the door. I then searched junk yards for a complete door from a similar colored and year truck. Found one for a grand. Then for $200, I got a new pair of running boards/steps from someone that replaced his factory units with an aftermarket set up.
Thanks guys. Amazing that that little crease will require a new door. Is it that difficult to fill and paint these days, or do they just not do that kind of work any more? I don't think paintless is going to work because the sheet metal has an actual crease in it. The paint is not gouged through somehow, so maybe I will check with a paintless rep to see what's possible.
Good body shops have some great tools to deal with aluminium panels. They can't use weld on studs to pull on aluminium so they came up with a glue on button and a special tool to pull on it. My friend loves it because he no longer has to drop the head liner to do paintless hail repair. He also has a tool to pull a crease like yours. Aluminium body panels have been around for years, my 03 F150 had a aluminum hood.
The problem is that damage like that stretches the metal, so to remove it work requires shrinking. Not easy to do in a crease that long and deep. It can be done, but it may be cheaper to skin it or replace the shell.
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