Upcoming Project / Rust HELP!
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Upcoming Project / Rust HELP!
So I am going to undertake the big project of changing leaf springs (thanks Junior at ATS), shocks (KYB Monomax) and adding RAS this weekend (Yes, I plan on posting a write-up on here when its done). I want to take care of any surface rust I find throughout the process, but don't know the best product to use. My first thought is using Rust Reformer, then painting over it.
My biggest question is, what do I use to paint over the Rust Reformer? I was debating between Rubberized Undercoat (nervous about trapping moisture...), truck bed liner spray (don't want to change clearances with the added thickness), and just regular undercoating spray. Any recommendations?
My biggest question is, what do I use to paint over the Rust Reformer? I was debating between Rubberized Undercoat (nervous about trapping moisture...), truck bed liner spray (don't want to change clearances with the added thickness), and just regular undercoating spray. Any recommendations?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
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From: Northern California
if you are buying new springs why are you also using a "add a leaf" or in the case of the RAS a add a coil ?
why not just have install a leaf spring with the spring rate you want from the get go ?
Fleet Mechanic
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: South Eastern Michigan
A painter I used to deal with would take a frame to a powder coater, then DA the whole thing. The powder coat would fill all the rust pits and he would just smooth it and paint it. Looked new. Neat trick.
I have a tank tub at the powder coater right now. Anxious to get it back.
I have a tank tub at the powder coater right now. Anxious to get it back.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
I want to take care of any surface rust I find throughout the process, but don't know the best product to use. My first thought is using Rust Reformer, then painting over it.
My biggest question is, what do I use to paint over the Rust Reformer? I was debating between Rubberized Undercoat (nervous about trapping moisture...), truck bed liner spray (don't want to change clearances with the added thickness), and just regular undercoating spray. Any recommendations?
regardless of any paint companies marketing painting over rust is a bad idea for long term duribility.
my .02 would be use a wire wheel to get to bare metal, us a self etching primer on the clean metal, paint satin black, that will seal the metal and prevent it from rusting. to keep the paint from chipping use a ruberized coating then a finish coat of satin black to make it look nice.
if not rusty than ruberized coating, which usually dries to a weird brownish color so I prefer to finish paint it satin black.
for simple rattle can jobs Rustolem brand is a great product.
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no real reason. I ordered the V code front and C code rear. I tow a 9,000lb travel trailer most of the time and thought the RAS would add to the stability and make towing an even better experience than it already is. It may be overkill, but hey, what’s the point in having an Ex if you don’t like overkill
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the answer to your question really depends on the extent of the rust and to what level you are wanting the underbody of your Excursion protected.
regardless of any paint companies marketing painting over rust is a bad idea for long term duribility.
my .02 would be use a wire wheel to get to bare metal, us a self etching primer on the clean metal, paint satin black, that will seal the metal and prevent it from rusting. to keep the paint from chipping use a ruberized coating then a finish coat of satin black to make it look nice.
if not rusty than ruberized coating, which usually dries to a weird brownish color so I prefer to finish paint it satin black.
for simple rattle can jobs Rustolem brand is a great product.
regardless of any paint companies marketing painting over rust is a bad idea for long term duribility.
my .02 would be use a wire wheel to get to bare metal, us a self etching primer on the clean metal, paint satin black, that will seal the metal and prevent it from rusting. to keep the paint from chipping use a ruberized coating then a finish coat of satin black to make it look nice.
if not rusty than ruberized coating, which usually dries to a weird brownish color so I prefer to finish paint it satin black.
for simple rattle can jobs Rustolem brand is a great product.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
A painter I used to deal with would take a frame to a powder coater, then DA the whole thing. The powder coat would fill all the rust pits and he would just smooth it and paint it. Looked new. Neat trick.
I have a tank tub at the powder coater right now. Anxious to get it back.
I have a tank tub at the powder coater right now. Anxious to get it back.
this would be ideal. I’ll look into it when I start tackling more rust issues.
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Underneath the vehicle I used eastwood chassis saver paint and that went on with no issues or prep after putting rust encapsulator on. On body panels, I had to use an automotive primer to go over it or I had issues with the duplicolor rattle can paint I was using not wanting to stick to the rust encapsulator, I could rub it off after it dried and you never knew it was there! It's possible I was applying it incorrectly also, I am not sure I've attained amateur status yet
I am about to find out what my status is this weekend, but I think I will be below amateur as well haha. Thanks for the reply, this is what I was looking for.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
no real reason. I ordered the V code front and C code rear. I tow a 9,000lb travel trailer most of the time and thought the RAS would add to the stability and make towing an even better experience than it already is. It may be overkill, but hey, what’s the point in having an Ex if you don’t like overkill
my point would be to install a suspension that works better than stock for not just towing but ride quality and handeling.
anyhow, its no so much your design is overkill but seems pointless to use a dual rate leaf spring that collapses onto the secondary spring at curb weight.effectively making it a single rate spring and then on top of that add another spring. seems like a lot of misguided effort to end up with a inferior suspension.
me thinks a single rate main pack with a spring rate suited for your unlaiden weight and desired ride height and than use an air spring which is adjustable to match any payload such as towing.
mount the spring directly to the perch and ditching the block will effectivly deal with any spring wrap concerns.
the part many people over look when just heaping on a bunch of springs is the spring rate is so high you will never find a shock to work,that means your ride quality and handeling is always going to suck.
follow the suspension design principle of " use the lowest spring rate possible" and it will yield you a much better outcome.
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my point would be to install a suspension that works better than stock for not just towing but ride quality and handeling.
anyhow, its no so much your design is overkill but seems pointless to use a dual rate leaf spring that collapses onto the secondary spring at curb weight.effectively making it a single rate spring and then on top of that add another spring. seems like a lot of misguided effort to end up with a inferior suspension.
me thinks a single rate main pack with a spring rate suited for your unlaiden weight and desired ride height and than use an air spring which is adjustable to match any payload such as towing.
mount the spring directly to the perch and ditching the block will effectivly deal with any spring wrap concerns.
the part many people over look when just heaping on a bunch of springs is the spring rate is so high you will never find a shock to work,that means your ride quality and handeling is always going to suck.
follow the suspension design principle of " use the lowest spring rate possible" and it will yield you a much better outcome.
anyhow, its no so much your design is overkill but seems pointless to use a dual rate leaf spring that collapses onto the secondary spring at curb weight.effectively making it a single rate spring and then on top of that add another spring. seems like a lot of misguided effort to end up with a inferior suspension.
me thinks a single rate main pack with a spring rate suited for your unlaiden weight and desired ride height and than use an air spring which is adjustable to match any payload such as towing.
mount the spring directly to the perch and ditching the block will effectivly deal with any spring wrap concerns.
the part many people over look when just heaping on a bunch of springs is the spring rate is so high you will never find a shock to work,that means your ride quality and handeling is always going to suck.
follow the suspension design principle of " use the lowest spring rate possible" and it will yield you a much better outcome.
I will let you know how it works out, but definitely anything will be better than what I have now (which does almost nothing ha).
Thanks for your input!
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