Coolant loss????
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Northern California Mtn.
Coolant loss????
So here is the story,
2004 6.0 kept loosing coolant under a load. Tracked it down to a cracked radiator.
Replaced radiator with a Mishimoto rad and hoses. Unfortunately I screwed the pooch and forgot to put the clamp on the lower engine hose connector. Blew my coolant and was in an area I could not pull over. Oil temp hit 300f!!!
Realized what I did and put clamp in place. Filled system with water and coolant and things seemed fine. Drove 3 hours in 98f weather. No problems! Picked up a vehicle to tow back (Small MGB) and got 2.5 hours back and started to see a rise in temp (200-220). Now outside temp was 100+. Engine oil temp always stayed within 10 degrees. Got into some uphill grades and temp kept climbing. hit 240 and pulled over when I realized I had low coolant. Had some water and added about a 1.5 gallons and was able to make it home. Never blew the degas cap (new cap by the way), found no evidence of a leak and I have never seen any white smoke out the tail pipe.
Were the hell is it going?
I have read the tech section but since I don't seem to have a tell tail sign of EGR cooler failure or HG failure I am stumped.
Thanks
2004 6.0 kept loosing coolant under a load. Tracked it down to a cracked radiator.
Replaced radiator with a Mishimoto rad and hoses. Unfortunately I screwed the pooch and forgot to put the clamp on the lower engine hose connector. Blew my coolant and was in an area I could not pull over. Oil temp hit 300f!!!
Realized what I did and put clamp in place. Filled system with water and coolant and things seemed fine. Drove 3 hours in 98f weather. No problems! Picked up a vehicle to tow back (Small MGB) and got 2.5 hours back and started to see a rise in temp (200-220). Now outside temp was 100+. Engine oil temp always stayed within 10 degrees. Got into some uphill grades and temp kept climbing. hit 240 and pulled over when I realized I had low coolant. Had some water and added about a 1.5 gallons and was able to make it home. Never blew the degas cap (new cap by the way), found no evidence of a leak and I have never seen any white smoke out the tail pipe.
Were the hell is it going?
I have read the tech section but since I don't seem to have a tell tail sign of EGR cooler failure or HG failure I am stumped.
Thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 846
Likes: 34
Could be air pocket, but 1.5 gallon is too much for air pocket.
I would still watch out for egr or head gasket. But monitor to see if you still lose coolant. It is not always easy to see coolant from the tail pipe, Too little, you don't see it. Too much, you get hydro locked.
I would still watch out for egr or head gasket. But monitor to see if you still lose coolant. It is not always easy to see coolant from the tail pipe, Too little, you don't see it. Too much, you get hydro locked.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,835
Likes: 3,125
From: Jersey Shore
EGR pulled before or after the low coolant issue?
Have you used a low-pressure gauge to monitor coolant pressure?
With those temps and situations, you are a huge risk for head gaskets and cam failure in the future.
Have you used a low-pressure gauge to monitor coolant pressure?
With those temps and situations, you are a huge risk for head gaskets and cam failure in the future.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Northern California Mtn.
2004 June so after the changes.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Northern California Mtn.
Before, but I had a loss from the radiator, maybe both. I had already purchased a low pressure sensor to connect to my CTS3 scanner. Just need to find the time to install.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Northern California Mtn.
Already contacted a local diesel guy recommended by Sinster Diesel. Going to do a pressure test 1st and then get it to him.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Northern California Mtn.
Cap hasn't blown off after the rad change but I get your point.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I firmly believe that the cap pressure relief set point was, at least in part, intended to protect the radiator. I also believe that the OEM radiator won't stand for much over 15 psi - especially after there is some age on it (ie not much margin for error).