I haven't driven it on the freeway yet but I'm pretty sure it is going to be one hundred percent fixed after finding this.
Center electrode is completly gone. Boo on Autolite!

 

Sorry but I can buy that is a plug issue, unless it's just a fluke bad one. I've run Autolites in all my engines for years and never had that happen. It looks more like a lean or too much timing issue.

 

Generally speaking, I run Motorcraft, AC Delco, or NGK in everything. (funny side note, about 80% of the AC Delco branded plugs I get, have NGK stamped right into the body on them)

 

I've had that happen more than once, on a fresh set of autolites. Like I said, some guys swear by them, and haven't ever had an issue. It's not been my personal experience.

Edited: I don't want to make this sound like I'm completely crapping on autolite here, I've had the odd bad plug from other Manufacturers, just not at the same rate as I've personally experience with autolite.

 

So that plug was not the problem, I think it's just a clue that I have a lean condition in that cylinder. I think with my enthusiasm to stop the oil burning that I probably got too much silicone around that intake runner and it is leaning out that hole. I'm trying to fish the stuff out right now but will probably end up with the manifold back off. Crap.

 

That's no bueno but at least you'll be Pit Crew fast on these intakes pretty soon. lol

 

You betcha! It's back together. This time with the thin Edelbrock gaskets with exhaust crossover blocked and a THIN bead of Vibratite around all the ports. Finished it up last night around ten. Fired off with the first turn of the key. Took it out on the freeway and drove it harder and farther than it took to develop the miss and It ran great! Probably the best it has since the radiator exploded. Drove it in to work this morning and it's at 100%. F100 Western Nationals here I come!

 

Right on mang!!!

I beaded all my ports too... copper on the exhaust and right stiff around the intake. Just a small bead.

 

I'm getting a little long on age....Can you tell me where I can get some of that "Right Stiff"? lol

 

"The RIGHT STUFF". Permatex black RTV...like Franks Red Hot, I put that $heit on EVERYTHING. Any auto parts store in the sealant dept.

I use it sparingly where needed. Even with a paper gasket, or no gasket at all.

 

Man, that stuff is expensive though. I really like the Vibratite. It's factory, dries fast, and I can get a caulking gun size tube for $11 on Amazon.

 

You guys thought I had it fixed, didn't you? Turns out the next time I drove it, it acted up again. went to see my carburetor guy, he drove it, and declared "Lean misfire, open up all your jets .006!" I did, didn't fix it. Next day when it missed I pulled over on the freeway to get a read on the plugs and found the root of the problem. Two of my plugs had backed out to finger tight and burned out the center electrode. #@$%%$%&**^%%% is what I said loudly. Replaced them and torqued the rest and haven't had a miss since, though it was a bit on the fat side. brought the main jets down a bit, have 70's in it now, and it runs great. However I didn't know how rich or lean so in my quest to get my truck running perfectly I have done some carburetor modifications, (Holley 650) played around with ignition timing and advance curves, (Mallory electronic stand-alone) Vacuum advance source, fuel pressures, Spark plugs, and gaps. (Motorcraft 420's @ .045). Finally pulled the trigger and ponied up for an Air/Fuel gauge. Welded the bung in the exhaust for the oxygen sensor and wired everything up with the gauge front and center on the column.
I know that the stoichiometric fuel mixture is 14.7-1, at sea level, which I'm at. Sea level that is. According to my new toy, I mean tool, 14.7 is pretty lean.
The gauge face has digital numbers in the middle and LED's of green, yellow, and red around the perimeter. The green only goes up to around 12.3, then yellow from 12.3 to about15 before going to red lights, indicating a dangerously lean mixture I assume. @ freeway cruising speeds be it 65 or 90, I'm reading 11.3-11.7-1. If I punch it, I might see ten and a half. If I close the throttle it goes up to maybe 15 for a split second. Pulling a hill at full throttle it stays in the 11's.
I understand and firmly believe that I would rather be too rich sometimes than ever go lean, but does this sound right to you guys?

The truck is a 65 F100 with the 352 with some zoomy parts. 4bbl, headers, cam upgrade, .030 over. T-19 and 3.70 final drive turning 31's.

I copy and pasted some of the above so if it sounds like I am repeating myself, I am. Thanks for reading my long *** post.

Dan, TK65

 

I don't know what jets you had before, but go to 64 or 66 and you will be closer and get better fuel mileage.

 

Is this a mechanical or vacuum secondaries Holley? Maybe map out exactly where your timing curve is as well. It fires right off just bumping the key right? You can't be too far off tune wise buddy.

 

Vacuum secondaries. Fires right up bumping the key, unless it floods, which it has done once or twice lately. I put #70 jets in right before the meter install. I don't have smaller at this time, but am ordering some today. The timing curve was great before I started this work, and haven't changed it, although I haven't checked it. (For sticking or binding. I know the Vacuum advance works though, so I would imagine so does the centrifugal.)