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The front wheel bearings on the 15-20 F150 are basically Junk, If the noise goes away when turning one direction or the other at noise speed its the bearing changing slightly to a smooth area. Replace both of them. Actually the Gen before were also junk. The actual culprit are all the pot holes in the roads anymore. The bearing isn't tough enough, looses its lubrication and progressively gets worser ! The thaw crap put down on ice doesn't help the bearing either once moisture gets into it.
The front wheel bearings on the 15-20 F150 are basically Junk, If the noise goes away when turning one direction or the other at noise speed its the bearing changing slightly to a smooth area. Replace both of them. Actually the Gen before were also junk. The actual culprit are all the pot holes in the roads anymore. The bearing isn't tough enough, looses its lubrication and progressively gets worser ! The thaw crap put down on ice doesn't help the bearing either once moisture gets into it.
Sucks to hear but if the other one goes maybe it will still be under the 6-60 power train warranty. I am disappointed though since my truck only has 27,000 miles on it. I'm a life long Ford man and love my truck but I'm still a bit unhappy about this.
The front wheel bearings on the 15-20 F150 are basically Junk, If the noise goes away when turning one direction or the other at noise speed its the bearing changing slightly to a smooth area. Replace both of them. Actually the Gen before were also junk. The actual culprit are all the pot holes in the roads anymore. The bearing isn't tough enough, looses its lubrication and progressively gets worser ! The thaw crap put down on ice doesn't help the bearing either once moisture gets into it.
I guess I've been lucky, I've had a '15, '17 and now this '20. So far no problems with them, maybe this is first time?
90,000 and rough route, heavy liquid sprays on icy roads messes with them bad. Junk front suspensions are just inherited with the product ! U know its a Redneck thing the Bolts and Jacking and replacing stuff !
My Wife loves her KIA, AC goes out, Cruise Goes out, Car slows dramiticaly when she turns on the Head lights and slippery street light comes on in the Spedo, Can't get the car to go into park when stopping, have to shut off the motor count to 5 and restart to put it in park. No Codes' tells me the Puter and power modules are going out also. Sway bar links are junk, Kia is a throw away one use and junk it at 100,000 miles. Lil Woman loves it, it really is fun to drive. So I punt and fix !
I don't think it's wheel bearing on mine since once I click it into 4H it quits, then I run it a short distance in 4H then when I go back to 2H noise stays gone until another drive cycle.
Must be a 4wd thing. 108K miles and not a single bit of noise here. IMO 90% of people that buy 4wd don't need it and almost never use it. I know, I was one of them at one time.....
Must be a 4wd thing. 108K miles and not a single bit of noise here. IMO 90% of people that buy 4wd don't need it and almost never use it. I know, I was one of them at one time.....
This is the first 4wd I've owned in 62 yrs. I've used 4WD twice in the 3 years I've had it and am not so sure 2WD wouldn't have been fine. I was planning on retirement when I got it and thought maybe it could come in handy if we were traveling through the mountains somewhere. 2WD trucks are not that common at dealers around here. A buddy of mine had to order his 2WD 2010 because he couldn't find the trim he wanted on a lot in 2WD.
The bearing aren't that different, is the bearing loosing its grease and going rough slowly over some 1000's of miles. Ford inventories some some bad ones is my take of it all. Some loose them in 20 - 30,000 miles, mine started going at 90,000 miles. The chuck holes don't help at all ! Most likely the bearing is engineered too small of size. Most of us drive 70 + mph a lot and thats maybe 2000 / 2500 RPM tire speed.
VERY IMPORTANT step missed at about 9 minutes, the kid likely just damaged the IWE. You have to align the teeth on the IWE to the hub, and DO NOT take an impact to the spindle nut. While turning hub by hand, using a hand ratchet, tightening slowly, turn the hub until the teeth mesh, you'll know when they do, the half shaft will want to turn, and you may even hear a slight click. Then, torque the spindle nut to 27-30ft/lbs.
I see that step missed or incorrectly done on many videos replacing the hub, replacing IWE's, and installing levels.
A person can learn from the Internet just not Gospel usually. I have the F150 /2016 ford service manual !
This is true, there are some very good videos out there, it's just that how does a guy that knows nothing of whatever process, can draw the line there.
One guy that I listen/watch, is Makulucco, he's got his act together, and I've learned a few things from him. Then, you've got the Scotty Kilmers, etc..
Here's a link to Makuluccos videos;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCN4...Llk98JddJLL51w
I also have the shop manual on CD for 2020.