First time posting. I have a 2013 f250 diesel. Code reader shows 7E8 and 7E9, Then P20BA. This happened during a camping trip pulling my 28ft bumper pull trailer. Truck ran fine so I didn't do anything until I got back home (300 miles one way). Purchased a code reader and now have these codes. Did not notice any Regens (Hope I'm saying this correctly - Cleaning exhaust filter) on way home from trip. Also, I cannot DYI this repair due to recent surgery. Probably taking to dealer for fix although considering getting grandkids to do repair with my oversight.
I have a couple questions that I couldn't find the answers in this forum. I appreciate any help.

1. Assuming it is only the reductant heater (You know what happens when you assume), any opinion about having grandson do repair with my oversight? YouTube makes it look fairly easy but still.
2. I don't understand why the DEF heater would effect the regen cycles. Since I live in an area that doesn't freeze (Camping trip had snow), could I reset the code and the regens will continue?
3. Could there be damage to the exhaust filter if no regens on way home pulling a load?
4. What else could have damage because of this code and/or driving with this code?
5. I see some people replace the pump as well as the heater. What do y'all think?

 

So today I decided to clear the code to see if it would return. So far no check engine light. I assume it is because I am in a mild climate now and the Reductant heater is not needed. I'm still not sure if exhaust filter is getting cleaned. Just because I didn't see the notification on the dash, doesn't mean it could have happened without my knowledge. I assume if it doesn't clean the filter there would be a MIL for that. Anyway, I'm concerned about using the truck now. I will probably replace the reductant heater myself at a later date when I recuperate from my recent knee surgeries. I would appreciate any advice I can get. Thx in advance.

 

Do you have a lift? The DEF tank has to come out of the truck to replace the sender. They suck if your laying on the ground under the truck.

 

Do not have a lift.. Will do it the hard way. The check engine light came back on today. Ordered new def heater. Any tips would be helpful. Seen all YouTube videos so I think I have a good idea what to expect. Just need to get my new knees and big a** under the truck. Of course getting back up is the hardest part.

 

Even in warm weather, the reductant heater is tested every time you start the truck. If the temp sensor doesn't see an increase in DEF temp after the short test cycle, you get this code. So the crazy thing is that even if your truck never saw freezing temps, you still have to have a functional DEF heater. Seems silly, but that's how it works.

You should be able to talk a reasonably adept person thru the swap, the less DEF in the tank will make the R&R easier. I wouldn't worry about the pump right now if it's working, just reuse that part with the new heater. I put a Dorman replacement in mine about 8 months ago, so far it's working fine. After the swap you'll end up with some air in the DEF pump and you might get a code for that, but it'll prime and purge the system after a few drive cycles.

 

I replaced the DEF Heater. Not as difficult as expected. Broke the vent while removing the tank ($26 at dealer). Had to wait until next day to complete. After repair complete, test drive, dash display "Exhaust Fluid System Fault" "In 50 miles, speed limited to 50 mph". Also Codes - P204C (Reductant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low), and the original code came back P20BA.
I declared Uncle, gave up doing anything myself, and took it to the dealer ($490 Diagnosis Fee). 3 days later I'm notified that I need a new DEF pump and recalibrate system (Just under $1,600 includes diagnosis).
Should be ready tomorrow.
I have a question if anyone could answer for me. If the pump has not been working and my exhaust filter has not been "Cleaned".
Could there be damage to the exhaust filter?
Remember this problem started during a camping trip pulling my 28' travel trailer 500 miles.
Been doing a little research and it looks like a new exhaust system can be $3 - $4k installed. (Yikes!!)

 

In case anyone is interested. Dealer replaced the DEF Fuel Pump and recalibrated (Whatever that means). Just under $1,600 and they had my truck for 1 week. Now, I need to smog my truck for registration (CA) and the dealer tells me I need to reset the "Drive Cycle" before taking it for the smog test. Researching You Tube there are several ways to do this. First need to have between 1/4 and 3/4 tank full. Here is what I did today.
1. Begin with a cold engine (Sat overnight). Start and idle in park 4 minutes
2. Idle in drive 2 minutes.
3. Drive 25 mph, then 35 mph, then 45 mph. Drive each speed for at least 1-1/2 minutes. Total time for this 15 minutes. Stop at least 5 times. (This was difficult due to signal lights and traffic)
4. Drive 45-60 mph for at least 8 minutes. Then decelerate to below 20 mph at least 2 times (Do not use brake)
5. Stop, Idle for at least 1 minutes in drive. Put in park. Shut off engine. Check for codes and/or Monitor Tests for completion

Most of the monitor tests completed except for O2 sensor.
Some of the information out there says this may take several tries before all tests are complete so I will be doing this every morning for the next few days.

If anyone has any experience with this or any helpful info it would be greatly appreciated.

 

No, DEF has nothing to do with regens. DEF is injected into the exhaust to reduce NOX.

Pulling a trailer will require more DEF because when the engine is working harder NOX gasses are higher.

Your DPF is fine, you just had a bad heater and pump.

Why didn't the dealer do the drive cycle for you? That should be covered under the $1600 repair cost.

 

Why didn't the dealer do the drive cycle for you? That should be covered under the $1600 repair cost.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm relieved that my exhaust filter may not be damaged.
Since the dealer didn't know I needed a smog test may be the reason they didn't do the drive cycle reset. I received my renewal in the mail while it was in the shop. I asked the dealer if the work would effect a smog test and that's he told me I needed to do a drive cycle before smog test. I assume they would have charged me several hundred dollars more if I asked them to do it. My understanding is the drive cycle would eventually reset from normal driving anyway but I need a smog test soon.
Does anyone know which one of the items in the process is for the O2 monitor test? I thought maybe I could short cut the process.