Electrical question
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Redstone, CO
Electrical question
I posted this over in the regular truck forum because it’s not IDI related but decided that you diesel guys have always had the answers so came back here.
I recently replaced my beat up bed with a flatbed and added an after market EGT and boost gauge to my truck. Since then, or maybe it started before and I didn't notice, my taillights are getting a low voltage current and are dimly on anytime I have the key on. My best test point is my trailer plug. I am also getting a low current on the trailer brake contact so I thought I had it figured out. I tried disconnecting the trailer brake controller and pulling the 30 amp fuse in the power distribution box. Neither of those fixed it. I unplugged the taillights in the flatbed (standard trailer lights set in to holes in the back), still no dice. I disconnected my new gauge, no dice. I disconnected the trailer plug from the harness at the back, lights still on. They are not on as bright as when the headlight switch is on or the brakes are on. Any ideas where I could be getting stray current?
I recently replaced my beat up bed with a flatbed and added an after market EGT and boost gauge to my truck. Since then, or maybe it started before and I didn't notice, my taillights are getting a low voltage current and are dimly on anytime I have the key on. My best test point is my trailer plug. I am also getting a low current on the trailer brake contact so I thought I had it figured out. I tried disconnecting the trailer brake controller and pulling the 30 amp fuse in the power distribution box. Neither of those fixed it. I unplugged the taillights in the flatbed (standard trailer lights set in to holes in the back), still no dice. I disconnected my new gauge, no dice. I disconnected the trailer plug from the harness at the back, lights still on. They are not on as bright as when the headlight switch is on or the brakes are on. Any ideas where I could be getting stray current?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,511
Likes: 5,567
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
each light should have three wires. one for blinker/brake, one for running light, and one for ground.
the ground wire either has to be directly to the frame, or body if it is metal. the the frame needs a ground strap from the battery. body needs a ground strap to the frame.
the ground wire either has to be directly to the frame, or body if it is metal. the the frame needs a ground strap from the battery. body needs a ground strap to the frame.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Redstone, CO
each light should have three wires. one for blinker/brake, one for running light, and one for ground.
the ground wire either has to be directly to the frame, or body if it is metal. the the frame needs a ground strap from the battery. body needs a ground strap to the frame.
the ground wire either has to be directly to the frame, or body if it is metal. the the frame needs a ground strap from the battery. body needs a ground strap to the frame.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 170
Likes: 10
From: South Carolina
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 66
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From: Redstone, CO
Solved!
I learned something today! My problem was that the trailer lights I put in my flatbed were LED and did not offer enough electrical resistance. Swap flights out for good old school bulb type and the problem is solved
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,511
Likes: 5,567
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
led's will do that. never thought of the fact you were running led's.
i have led 's on 2004 the rack body, but also have a set of regular round style lamps mounted to the frame.
i have led 's on 2004 the rack body, but also have a set of regular round style lamps mounted to the frame.
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