Now that I've fixed the floors on my '65 F-350, I am looking at carpet. ACC seems to be a good choice. (I don't want original rubber floor mat because it will trap water underneath and start rusting out all my hard work)...

Is the '65-66 F-350 cab the same floor as the '61-'64 F-100, 250 and 350? Four-speed with high tunnel, and it has the step inside the cab.

What is the difference between the carpets with gas tank in cab, or no tank? My truck originally had the gas tank behind the seat, but I removed it. So which type do I want to order?

thanks.

 

Carpet for cab with tank will not reach all the way to the back wall, while carpets made for cab without tank will reach all the way to the back wall. It’s weather you want those five inches covered or not.

 

Thanks!
I also just figured that out by looking at the pictures of both carpets on Rock Auto
Same price, so might as well cover the "bump" against the back wall too...

 

If your cab is sealed how will water get in?

 

That's a big "if"
6-year-old seals (and perhaps undiscovered rust holes) can cause hidden leaks from windshield, wipers, cowl, firewall... also brought in on wet boots, or even condensation from the humidity and temperature changes.

Edited to add: rain + wind blowing by the door seals or window seals...

 

Just my opinion, but carpet, especially quality carpet with a backing, is going to trap water and have the same risk for rust. As question by instig8r above alludes to, best line of defense is to prevent the water in the first place (I know - quite the challenge on these trucks!) with 2nd line of defense being a good epoxy primer being on the floor to seal the metal from any trapped moisture. My 2 cents...

 

Requested ACC samples then once decided on type and color had upholstery shop install and they used their ACC discount and applied to my installation. The carpet runs from the firewall along the floor, under the seats and approx. 1/2 up the gas tank.

Prior to applied jute backed aluminum foil to the floor then sealed along the parimiter with aluminum foil tape, this was numerous years ago and recently had to pull carpet to replace clutch and no evidence of rust or corrosion.

Issues one may consider: Suggest for those who have a floor shift do not glue the carpet to the floor in the event may require pulling up the carpet to get access to the trans tunnel?

Anyhow, food for thought??

 

Thanks for the tip. I wasn't planning to glue the carpet down - it'll be held in place, at least the rear half, by the four seat mounting points and the four seat belt mounts.

Not sure about the firewall end yet. The shifter boot bezel and screws (and the other shifter I added for my brownie) will secure the front center carpet to the tunnel. Carolina Classics has a very nice pair of "scuff plates" for the lip next to the door, but I can't see spending $245 when the ACC carpet is half that...
https://carolina-classics.com/collec...ith-s-s-screws

 

I put the 80-20 loop ACC carpet with mass backing in my F250 with the door step. The carpet is not trimmed to fit that step. When I made the purchase, I was thinking that I would get the edges finished by an upholsterer. However, after all the work of getting it installed and fitted around the shifters, clutch rod, column, seats, kick panels, etc - there was no way I was going to take it back out. (I had "extra" issues because the carpet did not fit my tunnel hump correctly - I believe I have a non-stock tunnel)
I simply used a new razor blade, with the step edge as a guide, and trimmed out the step - I razored it from 'below', and simply dragged the razor along the step. I was wondering how to finish the edge in-situ...maybe some type of heat applied edging, or... Ultimately, the bare trimmed edge didn't look that bad, and I got used to it. My truck isn't gonna win any shows.
From an FTE post, I happened on the scuff-plates from Carolina Classics. I took the plunge, and like the results. Before and after pics below.
BTW, the scuff plates come bare aluminum. The upper is a reasonable machined finish - you can barely see the end mill marks. I polished mine with Autosol aluminum polish.
Also, FWIW, I installed Dynamat and Dynapad on the floor first. I also have it on just about every interior surface, inside doors, etc. That, with the carpet, really cut down on road noise. The Dynamat is kinda like a mastic - super sticky, pretty thick. I'm pretty sure rust isn't going to happen where it is stuck, but also sure it's going to be impossible to remove.

 

Don't feel bad, your truck looks a helluva lot better than mine! That bare edge does indeed look acceptable (for $245)
Did you glue down the edge, or just let it sit flat there?

I'm having my seat reupholstered since the covering is completely shot - in dark vinyl as original, but with lighter green cloth sections in the 2 locations where people sit. Will be much more comfortable in the summer.

 

Just some history. Some of the 1964 Custom Cab trucks actually got the curved scuff plates from the factory, but not some like 4x4 and F350. If they had done that from the factory on the passengers side on the trucks with the battery below the floor boards you'd have to remove the scuff plate then turn back the black floor mat and then access the cover to get to the battery connections. I've always suspected they didn't use them on those models for that reason. I've thought about going to a battery with side posts and swap cables to the same connections - then you could fairly easily get to the battery connections without going through the floor board access cover. Not available before 1964 - then in 1964 it was Custom Cab (81B) with 114" and 128" wheelbase (2WD trucks) which excludes the 120" (4x4) and 132" (F350).

For 65/66 only the 2WD Custom Cabs (and 1966 F100 4x4 Custom Cab) and it was the different style of scuff plate. Like at this link. Door Scuff Plates - Pickup - Pair for 1965-66 Ford Trucks | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations (dennis-carpenter.com)

 

Shop glued the edge of the carpet on top of the firewall pad, when I reinstalled the carpet I tucked the edge under the lip of the firewall pad and so far holding up well.

 

Thanks for the history lesson My F-350's battery is definitely below the floor. But I was planning to (neatly) cut a flap of carpet there - or maybe cut it out entirely and glue it to the cover.
Or just leave the edges unfastened...

 

Good point on the battery. My PO moved the battery to the engine compartment, so I wasn't fighting that. I did want to put a beer cooler at that position...next year...
My PO had a carpet that was trimmed with vinyl around the door edge. It was slit straight along the front base of the passenger seat, from the door well to the tranny tunnel, and had two snaps at the edge (one on each side of the slit), that kept it down. Allowed access to the battery door. It was a good install, just worn-out by the time I got it.
I probably would have used a bit of spray glue along the edge, if I hadn't landed on the scuff plates. That spray-on is pretty easy to pull up - something like 3M "General Trim Adhesive" is really easy to pull up, or even a "Headliner" adhesive would probably be OK, since carpet is pretty strong and you can yank on it. Let me see if I have a pic of that slit in the carpet...

 

The ACC carpet I installed has ample material to reach the rear wall of the cab should I decide to relocate the tank. Another nice thing is that if you order carpet mats from them they are color matched.