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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Carpet question

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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 09:06 AM
  #16  
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Another question - does the plate (that secures the rubber firewall seal for steering column/clutch rod) go under the carpet or above it? thanks.

 
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 09:48 AM
  #17  
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I installed my carpet over it.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 09:53 AM
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I installed the cover plate to the floor - under the carpet
 
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 624WD
I installed the cover plate to the floor - under the carpet
Did the same on the 65.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 05:36 PM
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OK, 3 for 3. So I attached it first

This afternoon the carpet came FedEx (one day later than originally promised, as usual), so I unrolled it and let it sit in the sun for a bit. It really didn't have much wrinkling at all (and it is the one that fits my floor)

I made four holes (locate with an awl, then cut out with a pointed X-acto knife) and bolted the seat belt ends in. To finish unrolling the carpet I will have to carefully cut holes for the two shifters, parking brake, dimmer switch, clutch rod and the steering column. Also it needs 2 or 3" of extra width trimmed off each side. Good to have extra material anyway! Better to do that when I'm not hot, tired and hungry 😉


 
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 06:36 PM
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For the first few years I usually found myself closing the door on the seat belts and then came across a set of reasonably price retractable belts at a swap meet. et?? Anyhow, food for thought?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 08:18 PM
  #22  
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I would like to have a shoulder harness... But I don't drive it much, and after 20 years of ownership I have learned to keep the belts out of the door
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 05:57 PM
  #23  
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The truck carpet is progressing. There are a lot of holes that have to be cut, carefully. Then finding the original screw holes for the bezels is also an interesting exercise.

I found the easiest way to remove the shifter from the NP435 was to use a roll of double-width electrical tape. That helpful advice showed up on a Google search for removal - possibly even here on F-T.com... anyway the tape is soft enough to push down with my hand, hard enough to compress the spring, and the friction between the tape edges and the round clip was sufficient to rotate the clip. So I just pushed and turned. Only took two tries to get it back on, too!

Too hot + humid to resume work this afternoon, will start again in the morning.



 
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 07:26 PM
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I used a carpenters awl - sharpened the point, and from underneath the truck pushed it through the holes. A helper then marked the point with a pointed piece of chalk where it pushed through the carpet. I cut small holes with a pointed knife. I’m sure others have easier and tried and true methods. You are doing a great job.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 09:32 PM
  #25  
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thanks

I did something similar, but without getting under the truck. The larger bolt holes are easily palpable through the carpet, so I'd stick the awl through from above. Then cut the X with a pointed blade. For the small #8 or #10 bezel holes, I lifted the cut edge until I could see the hole in the sheet metal, guesstimate where the awl should come through, and poke away!

The remaining openings are for the steering column, clutch rod, and dimmer switch. I think the first two will get a slit from the firewall end, with a larger hole where the column and rod come through. Then the dimmer switch hole should be easy to locate.

This carpet has about 3" of excess width (not counting the cutouts for the steps). So I'll need to make some very straight cuts on the left and right borders, and follow the curve of the step accurately too. Any thoughts on dealing with the cut edge - carefully melt with a propane torch? Glue some kind of binding? Could an upholstery shop sew on a binding in-place with a portable device of some kind?

 
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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 08:34 AM
  #26  
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I put a scrap piece of commercial carpet in my truck. or the edges, that didn't have trim, I used metal edging, for carpets, that you can get at any home center.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 01:38 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for the suggestion. I'm wary of using edging because the screws that secure it will be several points where rust could start... maybe some spray adhesive along the borders, to just glue it down

I made the remaining holes and cut the edges. It could use a fine trim with a new razor blade. The right rear corner does sit flat when the flap inside is held against the A-pillar, so I'll glue it there.

Still thinking about the battery box cover. I could cut the carpet out there, but it's an area where the edge can be stepped on and frayed... I may just leave that edge loose so I can pull the carpet back if access is needed.


 
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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 06:19 PM
  #28  
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That’s probably the best way - cover the cover. You could cut around the cover, and have the edges bound for both the cover piece and double sided taped to the cover…and bind the floor cutout. But, for the effort, and for the few times you need to replace or charge the battery…. Why? Went through the same on my 62 4x4.

I would say, that you did a fine job…and if it didn’t take effort…and humidity and heat… you may not appreciate it as much.

post some pics with the seat when it’s done, and let us know how it sounds when you drive it.



 
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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 07:22 PM
  #29  
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Today the humidity was only 34%, which is MUCH more comfortable than 64% when the temp is approaching 90F! It's got to sound better than before, since I fixed a massive head-to-exhaust manifold leak

3M Super Trim Adhesive (08090) is available at the chain auto parts stores here... $26 a can, but it will stick that carpet where I want it to stick!

Do you know if it's possible to bind an edge with the carpet in place? I'm sure not taking it out again!
 
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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 09:21 PM
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There used to be some vinyl or plastic edging material available. It was/is u-shaped, but the edges meet. Kind of like the trim for FRP (fiber reinforced plastic sheets), that can be found in home centers
 
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