Voltage Regulator recommendation needed
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: New Hampshire
Voltage Regulator recommendation needed
Recent slow starting issue caused me to replace the 2013 vintage battery in my 1975 F250 Highboy with a 360FE and C6.
Even with the brand new battery its only showing 13.2 volts on my DMM with engine running so Id like to replace the Voltage regulator as well.
Picked up a brand new Standard Motor VR166 and its no better, actually worse -shows only 13.0V with engine running.
Full fielding the alternator shows 14.5 V so I know the alternator is good.
Are here any high quality Voltage regulators out there or am I doomed to keep trying China crap until I get lucky?
Thanks
Tbruz
Even with the brand new battery its only showing 13.2 volts on my DMM with engine running so Id like to replace the Voltage regulator as well.
Picked up a brand new Standard Motor VR166 and its no better, actually worse -shows only 13.0V with engine running.
Full fielding the alternator shows 14.5 V so I know the alternator is good.
Are here any high quality Voltage regulators out there or am I doomed to keep trying China crap until I get lucky?
Thanks
Tbruz
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
Did you by chance have the original regulator that had the removable cover? That is adjustable for voltage. I suggest the Echlin VR-428 as it's one of the last available replacements that is adjustable for voltage. I avoid the solid state cheap units sold these days.https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHVR428
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Joined: Jul 2019
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While you should avoid the cheap solid state units, you should not avoid ALL solid state units.
The Standard VR166 (NOT VR166T) is a very good electronic regulator, available on rock for $25. I wouldn't do a mechanical regulator unless you're building a concours truck where someone with too much time on their hands might notice.
Also, look into a 3G alternator swap (or a simpler option: the tuff stuff 100a). It allows you to generate a lot more power and delete the regulator
The Standard VR166 (NOT VR166T) is a very good electronic regulator, available on rock for $25. I wouldn't do a mechanical regulator unless you're building a concours truck where someone with too much time on their hands might notice.
Also, look into a 3G alternator swap (or a simpler option: the tuff stuff 100a). It allows you to generate a lot more power and delete the regulator
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
You said you full field tested the ALT and got 14.5 volts out of it?
I would think it would be a lot higher than that, like 15 to 16 volts but I have not full field tested one but have seen some put out that much when the REG went bad.
If everything is working as it shout a reading of 13.5 to 14.5 with everything turned on and the RPM up to 2000 you should be good.
I just think the ALT is not putting out what it needs to for the REG to to work.
Dave ----
I would think it would be a lot higher than that, like 15 to 16 volts but I have not full field tested one but have seen some put out that much when the REG went bad.
If everything is working as it shout a reading of 13.5 to 14.5 with everything turned on and the RPM up to 2000 you should be good.
I just think the ALT is not putting out what it needs to for the REG to to work.
Dave ----
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: New Hampshire
I re-tested the alternator tonight; full field, A jumped to F gives me 15.65V at idle not 14.5.
This confirms the alternator is good and the VR is bad.
I returned the new "Bad" Standard Motor VR166 and got a second one.
Installed it and all is good, 14.4 V at idle.
Still wondering who has a high quality VR?
Thanks
Tbruz
This confirms the alternator is good and the VR is bad.
I returned the new "Bad" Standard Motor VR166 and got a second one.
Installed it and all is good, 14.4 V at idle.
Still wondering who has a high quality VR?
Thanks
Tbruz
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