Needing some help, have tried everything and its not adding up. It/s something simple idk about or really bad i feel 2018 f350 6.7 drw. Best friend owned before me and babied it, i got it at 52k currently 83k. Had injector problems ford tried getting out of then warrantied 2 injectors, week later same two missing(3 and 4) Compression test showed cylinder 3 at 24% compression and 68k miles Needed truck for work and was behind, asked dealer if i used it for a while longer would it ruin more stuff, was told the damage was done pretty much needed new motor they thought. that was 5 months ago,, got def in the tank after that but caught it, truck ran about 10 seconds after initial contamination and sitting for 3 hours. pulled lines and draned tank, added bunch of water stuff and additives, pumped tank, had aux tank i filled and additives and fuel, would let it drain down and then pump out, about 150g worth of that in 30g increments. sucked out as much as could even using syphon Changed filters, filled tank and ran about 500 miles in a day on interstate down a gear or two to keep rpms and temps up there and throw the fuel thru it, changed filters twice that day and daily for a week after that and did about 2k miles first week and next two changing filters daily then every day. Only frst and second filter showed anything when drying. Last 2 thousnad or so miles truck was weaker, would have turbo boost issue and exhaust temp over and have to stop and cool down for half hour, totally random and 9noy couple times, seemed electrical, but already needed new engine and i didn't have license so would clear codes and go asap. Cut out on interstate at night and pulled off. it started but ran really rough and loud metal noise and white smoke, but then would die no matter what i did.

that was 8 weeks ago or so. I've replaced temp/pressure sensor/switch, rail pressure sensor, frame filter assembly housing, both regulators and nothing showed any signs of contamination. Even got ford bosch cp4 brand new and installed it, old one didnt show any signs physically but rail pressure wouldn[t built and build really slow, but repaced it and went from 800psi tops with old one which got down to 378 tops to new pump ht 1700 for a while and then got down to 700 tops for a while was saying low pressure on lp side, lift pump was loud but fixed that by hardwiring lines to wate sep. broke quick disconnects when removing old housing assembly. pressure got up to 58-65 steady; Have forscan by the way..Even got new fpdm but it didn't seem to work so went back to jumpered set up. lift pump is quiet now and runs smoothly. Dropped tank and inspected it and clean as a whistle. everything seems good, truck cranks but doesnt' start, seems to be cranking pretty fast tho..messed with buttefly and it wasnt' sticking, cleaned out manifold and all that i could the hpfp takes several sedconds to build and then dops to 200 almost instantly when key off. pulled return off rail and checked to see if pressure changed thinking a restriction on return would cause a false high reading on on lp side. ive tried everything to get the pressure up and nothing is making the ail pressrure build quicker or higher. Tank and sending unit are spotless as well. i read something about new cp4 having to clear dtc for Hugh pressure system. I'm forgetting suff im sure but for as much changing ive done i just cant get rp to build faster or higher. egr temp sensor b(under battery box) has consant 392 temp causing a -40 in another one, but that was there months before crank, no start. ive done almost all the things ive foun online, and hopefully the right way, im wondering about bjb cuz had some weird short there that fueses ot weird color and saw it spark but all the fuses were good and that was 10k miles ago.. Any ideas are welcomed.

 

Best advice, quite throwing parts at it.

Take it to a qualified Ford service dept. Not the one you took it too already.

If you scan for codes, what are they?

 

008a
2291
i forget this second but the standard four when its hpfp. i read that need to reset fuel system or something after replacing cp4 but i cant seem to find that. the fact that even new pump didn't change much and its building slow and under 1000 now seems like there is something else limiting it from building. but as fast as its losing rail pressure its like a check valve or something is letting it flow back, but i didn't think itd go back thru hphp. its fast cranking almost like low resistance. I've spent many nights on it thinking, i cant go without my truck and in the last 7 weeks my shop im renting has been robbed twice and over 30 grand eqipmetn stolen, truck ****ed with, sound system stolen out of it, and dog ended up dead, who is still currently in back seat and not pretty. i just need to get it moving cuz i'm 3 hours from home and need to get what i got left of equipment out of here because it'll get robbed again and isnuance isn't covering it and cops don't seem to give a **** so im kinda stuck between rock and a hard place with it.

 

get it towed home. Then deal with it. all those codes are related to the real issue at hand. What that is unknown because of the amount of parts you have thrown at it.

My guess is a bunch of air in the system combined with fuel lines not correct replaced and reused plus the need for IDS to do a proper pin point test line by line of each of the suspected parts you have replaced.

 

yeah i hear that, what i did was pretty much whats called for for complete fuel system contamination. i did get a gallon of def in the diesel tank, but i pumped it out and all, but almost 15k miles later i had the symptons of contamination so i started doing what it said, it hasn't ran since putting the parts on, i just put em on one at a time for most part as money and time permitted. But after pulling out the pump and tank and regulators there wasn't the tell tale signs of def or even water contamination. But the pump not building pressure like it is seems to be a safety measure or electronic something blocking it and was wanting to see how i could look into that i guess.

 

I am sure you did, but did you check all the fuses inside the truck and under the hood? Pull the wiring harness by the passenger side and have a look at the pins and see if one is pushed in or something.

I don't think so, but previous years had a fuel cutoff switch on the passenger side of the dash. It was accessed when you open the door.

Might also take the lower fuel filter down again, check the o-ring and confirm all is ok, place it back and go through the priming route.

Ensure fully charged batteries before cranking.

 

Actually, i did do all those things first(if i remember what all ya listed, i hammered anyone within earshot including ford mechanics for ideas that couldn't hurt to try first) mind you i'm my own boss and in between locations and court dates, so time i had, money I did not, so i tried every thing i could read or think of first besides putting the cp4, and sensors/regs in, everything from new batteries to pulling harnesses going thru all the wires and rewrapping them to 5v ref testing things before replacing any sensors etc. woulda came out ahead at dealer tho if i woulda packed up and had uhauls take stuff home and didt have almost 30 grand in tools and equipment stolen and 10k in audio yanked from truck in the 7 weeks I've been dicking with it One thing i read similar to my issues was bjb, i do think that's something i should replace to eliminate the possibilities of problems now and future. With the oil leak from ccv etc oil did get onto a lot of the wiring and sensors and although i stay on top of cleaning it its never adequate. So i cleaned several times wires and areas and that's more why sensors being an issue seemed more justifiable when forscan or innova showed codes and i could bench test them with multimeter and the corresponding harness. Not saying i trust my own work 100 percent but i did attempt all i could without parts swapping and repeated tests several times in hopes of saving money and more headache. Air definitely could be issue tho I appreciate your responses and your time and candid approach, i don't need egged on on wild goose chases if i can avoid that's for sure.

 

what concerns me is that the original problem involved two cylinders.....injectors were replaced with no change to the problem.....then parts that impact all cylinders were replaced systematically and the initial problem on the 2 cylinders remain....and I would expect that.

we dont have the correct software tools and ford procedures to truely troubleshoot individual cylinder problems. could be injectors (getting bad new injectors has happened), could be new injectors not installed correctly...serial numbers have to be added to the computer system which have programming info in them, is this a mechanical problem...valves...rings....bent rods..rocker system....is it fuel delivery...is air getting into the lines to the injectors...are the glow pug seals leaking ...loosing compression there?

it sounds to me that you would rather take this journey to the end and fix yourself...rather than taken to the shop.....dont blame you from what I have seen at ford shops. and if you take this to a ford truck center...you are going to get an ear ful.

im not sure what off the shelf software tool system is as good as IDS and how you would get the ford diagnostic proceedures.

this is a good story to follow and hopefully this will be resolved.

I would go back to the two cylinders in question and stop replacing shared parts the feed all cylinders.

you definitely dont want to move good injectors from good cylinders to the two bad running ones...becuase of the re-programming needed that involes the serial numbers.

good luck and keep us posted.