So,some of you may have seen my other thread recently about my trucks towing capacity/toy hauler dilemma https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...apability.html
I have since decided on the TH I want,and now am looking into buying a new WDH for the package.Again,after reading a bunch of stuff/reviews/opinions on multiple hitches,I have narrowed my choices down to 3-Equalizer,Husky Centerline,and BlueOx Sway Pro.Currently I'm leaning towards the BlueOx mainly due to the option of a 2.5" shank.....except it is only available in 20k/2k TW.I realize this is overkill,but I am curious about the advantage/disadvantages of the 2" vs. 2.5" shank size?I saw a few threads where guys did not like towing with a reducer sleeve,which made me consider a 2.5" shank.I don't really feel like I need 2k bars for my 1150 TW/8k trailer.As well,I don't want to spend $600+ on a WDH setup,then have to buy a $200+ shank to fit the 2.5" receiver,as it appears it necks down to the 2'" head for the 15k/1500lb. hitch head.
The Husky Centerline I'm looking at is the 33039 14k/1400lb TW....$500ish,2" shank.The Equalizer is the 16k/1600lb TW...$900ish, 2.5" shank,but noisy.but evidently noisy.As well,the Husky,and Equalizer shanks appear to be solid square stock,whereas the BO is recessed in the middle receiver shank.I guess where I'm going is looking for opinions on pros and cons of shank size,as well as spring bar(?) weights in regards to my TH selection.I do understand the scaling the trailer loaded/unloaded aspect,but feel these weights will be within my range hauling mostly bikes...dirt or street.Just trying to find a happy medium compromise.

 

I use the Blue Ox Sway Pro and it works very well. I originally had an F-150 so I purchased the 2" shank version, however I upgraded to an F-250 shortly thereafter. I tried the system with the reducer sleeve and it had way too much slop for my taste. I purchased the the 2.5" shank separately and it worked much better, however my 250's receiver hitch seems to be oversized to start with and there is still excessive movement with all my different 2.5" shanks. I suggest you contact Blue Ox directly to see if they can get you a 2.5" shank coupled with the appropriate TW hitch head without having to buy additional components. I have heard that Blue Ox is very responsive, but I have never contacted them. One thing you might look at when comparing is the weight of the different units. I have not used any of the other WDH brands, but the BO is very heavy. Maybe the 2k/20k version will work but the folks at BO should be able to advise you on that. As an overall view, the BO is "relatively" quiet compared to the others I have heard pulling out of the camp sights, it allows you to back up without disengaging the bars and does a very good job of transferring the weight and reducing sway. It does however have a steep learning curve to safely engage the chains. There are some tricks to make it much easier. If you have any specific questions feel free to PM me and I will share my experiences. I hope this helps.

 

Go with the 2.5" shank. I used the Blue Ox with 2" shank before I switched to an Andersen with 3" shank. The Blue Ox functioned well on the road. The negatives of the Blue Ox are its weight and configuration. However, once you have the configuration dialed in, the time to connect isn't bad.

 

Well,that is certainly an option I hadn't thought of.If I could get them to 'build' a WDH with the parts I would like at a reasonable price.Thanks for the suggestion.

 

This is kinda what I think/feel too-the 2.5".My other concern being the 20k/2k spec.I have read where a too heavy spring rate would negatively affect the ride quality,and these #'s are quite a bit above what I would need..Is the weight thing the entire unit with bars and all?Obviously the head would be the majority of it.

 

I believe the head is the same for all the units , except standard vs underslung (Jayco units). The spring bars, shank and lift brackets are all interchangeable.

 

I've got a Husky WDH and it was sold to me with the 2" shank.

After our first trip I decided I wanted the 2.5" shank. I couldn't get the Husky part, but found a Curt shank that fits the Husky WDH head. There are no negative effects of using a different shank to head as long as you set everything up correctly. I've towed my 2016 Coachman 333RETS several times now and I much prefer the 2.5 over the 2 inch. There is a noticeably less amount of slop and the peace of mind allows for more focus on the road in front instead of what is behind me.

 

I have a equalizer with 2.5” shank, they actually are pretty quiet except in extreme turn/unlevel positions…. I use the silencer pads on the bars, which prob helps too.

 

This is probably what I will end up doing.I think I would just prefer a 2.5" instead of a sleeve.

Thanks.I am starting to lean a little more to the Equalizer,and just getting a 2.5" shank.

 

I just upgraded my truck from a 250 to a 350 . My 250 had the welded in reducer which worked ok with the 2 inch shank The 350 has the loose fitting reducer and it is way too sloppy. I tow with the Equalizer and just purchased the 2 1/2 inch shank. I am much happier and consider it $200 well spent.

 

I have an Equalizer and confirm it's not very noisy as long as you follow the instructions in the manual. They say to grease the ball and grease the pivot points of the bar receivers on the hitch head but do not grease where the bars ride on the L brackets back on the trailer frame. (ruins the sway control)

Before I greased, the noise was bad but now nearly nothing.