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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Power Windows help

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Old Sep 6, 2000 | 12:25 PM
  #1  
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erikgray
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Power Windows help

Okay, I have read some great help issues on power windows not working and I am gonna try them. I have never had much of a problem with my 91 F-150 until this stinkin' window problem.

I have the door panel off, but how do I get the window motor and drive assembly out? Is there an easy way or a lot of twisting and turning?

Sorry for sounding like a rookie, but I do not want to hurt my baby! Thanks, all.

Erik in Cincinnati
 
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Old Sep 6, 2000 | 03:43 PM
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fiddy
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Power Windows help

 
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Old Sep 6, 2000 | 08:26 PM
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Power Windows help

I can't say for sure on your 91 truck, but the few that I have changed you have to drill out the three center punched places behind the door panel to get to the bolts securing the motor. After drilling the holes out a socket wrench will fit through the hole and remove the bolts. This is the way the Helm's shop manuals tell you to remove the motor.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2000 | 11:12 PM
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Power Windows help

I just went through this with my '90 2 weeks ago and I'm assuming the job is the same on your 91. There are some indentations punched in the metal that indicate the points you need to drill out to reach the mounting bolts. There are three mounting bolts, but as I recall you only have to drill to reach 2 of them. I used a 1/2" bit and it gave me plenty of room to get the socket through there. Before you begin, use some duct tape over the top of the door to hold the glass up (be sure to put a rag between tape and metal to keep from pulling off paint). Having the window up makes it a little easier to get your arm inside the door to get out the bolts you drop in there. It also makes holding the motor a little easier.
All that was wrong with mine was that the brushes on the motor were so worn down they fell out of their holders. I'm keeping the motor and looking for brushes now .
Be sure you have a door panel remover and go by your local parts store and pick up some door panel holders for your application. You'll probably want to put in new ones becaue the old ones get stretched out pretty good and won't hold as tightly.

Good luck.

Nate

1964 F-100 Custom Cab 292 V-8 3 spd
1964 F-100 292 V-8 3 spd
1990 F-150 5.8L
Check out http://clubs.excite.com/f100
 
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Old Sep 7, 2000 | 12:35 AM
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Power Windows help

Erik- I got your e-mail butcould not reply. Feel free to contact me at Natp244@cs.com.

Here's the message I tried to send:
I guess I should have given you some more info...

You'll have to take off the entire plastic door panel- remove the screw near the top, front, and the one in the armrest, then you'll have to pop the door panel off (that's where the dor panel rremover comes in handy)- inside there will likely be a plastic sheeting covering the area under the door panel. carefully pull it away, and then you will have access to the inside of the door. The hole to access the window motor is actually underneath the speaker.
The window can probably be pushed up from underneath once you remove the door panel and the plastic liner. I also removed the metal brace that ataches to the armrest on the inside (this will all make sense after you take the door panel off.)
I think that is all you asked about, but if there's anything else just ask and I'll answer it or find someone who can.

I used 3M weatherstrip Adheisive to replace the plastic sheeting after I installed anew motor.

It sounds like a big job, but it is simple. Just be careful not to crack your door panels when removing them.

Nate

1964 F-100 Custom Cab 292 V-8 3 spd
1964 F-100 292 V-8 3 spd
1990 F-150 5.8L
Check out http://clubs.excite.com/f100
 
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Old Sep 7, 2000 | 08:04 PM
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Power Windows help

I have a similar problem on my wife's chevy van so this thread was interesting to me. I went to Wrenchhead.com and bought a reman'd window motor for $67 bucks. Even with core charge and 2-day ship, it was only something like $95. Still lower than their advertised "list". And if the dealer was true to form they would have nabbed me for a lot more (granted it would be a new motor) but who cares? I'll take the cheap - reman over the new - expensive(can't see it anyways) motor.

Oh - great tips from the other folks that replied. I'll be using those ideas on the van.
 
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