AC discharge temp
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
AC discharge temp
Just wondering what everyone's AC discharge temp was on Max AC. Have been having some issues with AC, usually been getting around 44-45 discharge temp with ambient temp around 75-80, humidity here around 50%. Hit deer last year during winter, had condensor replaced. This spring had hard time cooling, took to shop where had repair done was told freon was low, filled and checked for leaks. Still didn't act right so took to dealer, told there it was over charged, supposedly removed and filled to correct level. Day later noticed compressor frequently cycling (ex: 7sec on 7sec off continually) called dealer back, service advisor said "that don't sound normal" took back to shop. Mechanic said normal operation. At this point compressor still cycling frequently, and very little condensation if any from vehicle. Sorry for the long post just trying to explain situation. So in short is this average d/c temp and at what level or ambient humidity should the vehicle produce condensation? Also does other super dutys compressor cycle this often?? I would think with 50% humidity should b some condensation. Seems last year AC was much better. Just don't know anyone with super duty to compare with. It's 2019 f250 with 6.7 xlt trim so no auto climate controll if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 8,640
Likes: 2,435
I have no way of checking the temp on mine, but I've never been impressed. I blame it on the size of the windshield and cab space. As far as condensation all my vehicles will drip when the A/C is used, including the SD. I live in area that never gets bellow 50% humidity if that makes a difference.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 756
From: Texas
i have an appointment to have mine looked at
it takes over 15 minutes to start getting real good and cold air from vents. yes it 85 outside, but ..
my 2016 expedition would freeze you in a few minutes even with outside above 90.
now once it starts getting cold, then it cools off pretty fast
it takes over 15 minutes to start getting real good and cold air from vents. yes it 85 outside, but ..
my 2016 expedition would freeze you in a few minutes even with outside above 90.
now once it starts getting cold, then it cools off pretty fast
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
i have an appointment to have mine looked at
it takes over 15 minutes to start getting real good and cold air from vents. yes it 85 outside, but ..
my 2016 expedition would freeze you in a few minutes even with outside above 90.
now once it starts getting cold, then it cools off pretty fast
it takes over 15 minutes to start getting real good and cold air from vents. yes it 85 outside, but ..
my 2016 expedition would freeze you in a few minutes even with outside above 90.
now once it starts getting cold, then it cools off pretty fast
Same here, takes a while to get cool. Temp stays cold once cold but last year went to Florida in Aug AC seemed to cool much quicker and much colder than now.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 370
Likes: 178
You should be hitting that temp in the 90 degree outside temp range, but because it's humid you may be about right. Discharge Temps are one piece of the puzzle. There are many variables in calling a charge correct.
I used to do resi/commercial hvac for 12 years before I left the trade, but the principals are all the same. The shop should do a pressure check on the system with nitrogen to ensure there are no leaks. (It should hold 150 psi for at least half an hour). Then the system has to be vacuumed out for at least a half an hour (the longer the better) or so before charging the system. The system should only be charged by weight, not by what the gauges say. The gauges should verify that you're there, but because there's so many variables, they should go by weight.
Since they topped it off,, it's obvious they have zero clue what what hell they are doing. Have a reputable shop pull the charge, pressure test test and fix the leaks,, and vac it down and charge by weight. If they didn't pull a good enough vacuum the air that's left in the system could be freezing at the orifice.
Again, haven't don't much auto ac, but I've done 3 cars, including 2 of my own personal ones. They all blow ice cubes, and it's been about 7 years since I've repaired my cars.
I used to do resi/commercial hvac for 12 years before I left the trade, but the principals are all the same. The shop should do a pressure check on the system with nitrogen to ensure there are no leaks. (It should hold 150 psi for at least half an hour). Then the system has to be vacuumed out for at least a half an hour (the longer the better) or so before charging the system. The system should only be charged by weight, not by what the gauges say. The gauges should verify that you're there, but because there's so many variables, they should go by weight.
Since they topped it off,, it's obvious they have zero clue what what hell they are doing. Have a reputable shop pull the charge, pressure test test and fix the leaks,, and vac it down and charge by weight. If they didn't pull a good enough vacuum the air that's left in the system could be freezing at the orifice.
Again, haven't don't much auto ac, but I've done 3 cars, including 2 of my own personal ones. They all blow ice cubes, and it's been about 7 years since I've repaired my cars.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
