When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got the biggest stock alternaator I could at NAPA, a whole whopping 85 amps... I am definitely going for 170 or 200 once i get subwoofer.
What do you think the minimum is that I could get away with, without the sub that is?
do you know if I need the 6 and 13 oclock , what is it, g3 conversion? I am currently setup for 2 and 6 Oclock but it looks like I have provisions for noon and 6
Personally, I think an 85 amp is going to struggle to keep up in the middle of the hot summer. And for sure if you plan on running a big amp. Now if you upgraded all external lights to LED (primarily headlights), that might give you a leg up.
Another advantage of the 3g?? conversion is you don't have issues with the wiring harness/plug falling apart. The wiring is undersized on the factory alternator and wiring and it gets brittle and causes issues. The conversion connects the largest current wire directly to the solenoid with a lug terminal instead of a plug.
I ran electric fans (yes, two fans) on my 95 4.9L. No shroud, just a couple switches on the dash to turn them on. On the hottest days, I'd see the gauge move up to the "A" of normal, but that was as high as it ever got.
I ran electric fans (yes, two fans) on my 95 4.9L. No shroud, just a couple switches on the dash to turn them on. On the hottest days, I'd see the gauge move up to the "A" of normal, but that was as high as it ever got.
My kit came with a thermocouple you just stick between the fins of the radiator and then adjust the thermostat where you want it. I have a wire coming off the AC lower pressure switch that turns the fan on when the AC is turned on.
I purchased one of the aluminum shroud kits available one ebay that comes with two 14" fans. I have not installed it yet because the two 14" fans cause about 3/8" overhang on each side. my solution to this is to trim the fans by .250 on the inside where the two fans meet and .125" on the outside of each fan, I just haven't found a table saw to use yet. The fans appear to be he exact same as those sold by american volt and claim to move 1800 cfm each... american volt has a much higher claim for both their 120 watt and there 180 watt fans. the seller i bought the unit from says they consume 14 amps... 14 amps x 12 volts = 168 watts, right? so I don't exactly know which spec to believe and I do not know how much air at a given rpm the stock mechanical fan moves, but i believe that even the low number of 3600 cfm is more than enough. I will have tis controlled by a 180 on 165 off ground switch in the thermostat housing with a 195 stant superstat. I can send picture of the uninstalled unit if you like. I hope to add a 3 or 4 core aluminum radiator in the future, but I am getting mixed reviews on the units sold on ebay and I don't really feel like paying the $600 for the frostbite or whatever sold by summit.
Oh, i should add I have never had any overheating problems with the stock setup, I am just doing this in the hopes to free up a few extra hp... which I have also gotten mixed revies on... we will see.
I just put dual fans on my truck with a 180 thermostat and a 185 on 160 off switch and my fans run constant they never shut off after the truck is warmed up. I'm currently trying to figure out what the best degree on off is gonna be
I just put dual fans on my truck with a 180 thermostat and a 185 on 160 off switch and my fans run constant they never shut off after the truck is warmed up. I'm currently trying to figure out what the best degree on off is gonna be
I think you are going to need to raise that cut off temp. I seriously doubt that fan is ever going to bring you to 160 with an engine running and you don't want it to. EFI engines run better and more efficiently when around the thermostat temperature. If you think about it, the thermostat is going to close when it is below 180. That means no water is flowing, the fan will never cool down the engine when the thermostat is closed. I don't know the temps, but I would imagine mine comes on at maybe 185 or so and cuts off probably 180. I just ran my to operating temperature, then watched the needle on the dash till it went up maybe a letter or two then set it to come on then. Not very scientific, but it works fine.
I'm running a 195 thermostat, so I set my fan to come on at 200 and go back off once it gets back down to 195 to let it get up to temperature and keep it there.
It stays at about the O in Normal, which is around 195 - 200 degrees according to my PimpX ECU. I only ever hear it run if I'm idling or driving around at very low speeds.
Last edited by Mikulh; Jun 1, 2021 at 01:09 PM.
Reason: Changed "A in Normal" to "O in Normal"... which is what I really meant.
I think you are going to need to raise that cut off temp. I seriously doubt that fan is ever going to bring you to 160 with an engine running and you don't want it to. EFI engines run better and more efficiently when around the thermostat temperature. If you think about it, the thermostat is going to close when it is below 180. That means no water is flowing, the fan will never cool down the engine when the thermostat is closed. I don't know the temps, but I would imagine mine comes on at maybe 185 or so and cuts off probably 180. I just ran my to operating temperature, then watched the needle on the dash till it went up maybe a letter or two then set it to come on then. Not very scientific, but it works fine.
Broncobasher
I know that for sure it never kicks off. I just put it all in Sunday. I ordered 2 different temp switches yesterday they should be here Friday. 1 is a 200 on 185 off and the other is 210 on 195 off. I'm going to put the 200 on 185 off in 1st and we'll see how it goes. I did wire up an override switch to flip them on if need be. I think eventually I'm going to order a controller for it. I ordered my whole kit thru champion and just used the relay setup that they sent.
I know that for sure it never kicks off. I just put it all in Sunday. I ordered 2 different temp switches yesterday they should be here Friday. 1 is a 200 on 185 off and the other is 210 on 195 off. I'm going to put the 200 on 185 off in 1st and we'll see how it goes. I did wire up an override switch to flip them on if need be. I think eventually I'm going to order a controller for it. I ordered my whole kit thru champion and just used the relay setup that they sent.
The fan I bought had a thermostat built in. It has a controller on top of the fan with a ****. You just turn it until it kicks on where you want it. I think you just turn it to where it cuts on at whatever temperature you want it at and it runs until it gets back there. I would assume it runs to a temperature below the kick on setting, but must be built in.
Broncobasher
I know that for sure it never kicks off. I just put it all in Sunday. I ordered 2 different temp switches yesterday they should be here Friday. 1 is a 200 on 185 off and the other is 210 on 195 off. I'm going to put the 200 on 185 off in 1st and we'll see how it goes. I did wire up an override switch to flip them on if need be. I think eventually I'm going to order a controller for it. I ordered my whole kit thru champion and just used the relay setup that they sent.
You may have mentioned this already, but it should be wired in to your AC so it runs constantly when the AC is on.
You may have mentioned this already, but it should be wired in to your AC so it runs constantly when the AC is on.
Rosewood
LMC truck has an A/C relay harness for the electric fan conversion. It will be delivered Monday, so I will let you know how it works. It allows you to not have to cut your factory wiring.
LMC truck has an A/C relay harness for the electric fan conversion. It will be delivered Monday, so I will let you know how it works. It allows you to not have to cut your factory wiring.
I used a wire "T-tap" on mine that 3M makes. It is what is called a IDC connector (insulation displacement connector) Just tapped on the wire to the low pressure switch and connected it to the built in thermostat connector designed for that. Let us know how it works.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.