white smoke??
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
white smoke??
91 f-250 351 auto 4 x 4 now when i start it there is white smoke coming from the tail pipe for about 5 min and then it goes away. I know that this is a sign of a bad head gasket, but i have a leak in my exhaust manifold could this be part of it, becuase i smell antifreeze where the leak in the manifold is. so if it is the start of a bad head gasket is there a quick fix i could do to hold me over for a few months untill i can afford to get the head replaced. also is it hard to replaced the exhaust manifolds on a 351 f-250. I know air tools and alot of pb blaster is needed any thing else. also when i smeel the white smoke there is no sent to it. could that just be exhaust smoke?? thanks for any help. one more question what is the cheapest headerexhaust combo out there for a 351 im on a very tight budget right now
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Joined: Sep 2002
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That is not a blown head gasket. That is just condensation (water) burning from with in the exhaust system, when the exhaust gets hot it evaporates the water which is why the smoke stops.
If you had a blown head gasket, it would smoke constantly!!
If you had a blown head gasket, it would smoke constantly!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Still under the hood in O
Re: white smoke??
Originally posted by remmers
but i have a leak in my exhaust manifold could this be part of it, becuase i smell antifreeze where the leak in the manifold is.
but i have a leak in my exhaust manifold could this be part of it, becuase i smell antifreeze where the leak in the manifold is.
Do you have bubbles in the radiator(while running) / losing coolant? Or the usual oil in water/ water in oil? How's the temp?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 188
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From: Michigan
oldstylefseries do u know where around here i can rent air tools i have a compressor i just need air tools to get the rear drums off
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New User
Joined: Oct 2003
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An air compressor and air tools should not be necessary for pulling a set of brake drums. What usually happens is the drum develops a small ridge at the edge during use. Removing the adjustment plug and cranking in the shoes normally frees up the drum so it will pull . . .
If they are cranked all the way in and the drum still won't pull, try using a drum puller before resorting to air tools (unless you 'want' to replace the drums anyway). Lots less likelyhood that you will damage something else.
As for tool rentals, look in the telephone book and make a few phone calls - see what the different rental shop have and compare prices.
If they are cranked all the way in and the drum still won't pull, try using a drum puller before resorting to air tools (unless you 'want' to replace the drums anyway). Lots less likelyhood that you will damage something else.
As for tool rentals, look in the telephone book and make a few phone calls - see what the different rental shop have and compare prices.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
on the rear brake issue there are 4 bolts that are behind the drun that hold the axle in to the drum. some told me i have to remove these for bolts to get the drums off. i am at my wits end i can do rear brakes and i want to do them to save alot of money but i cant get the drums off and they are spinning freely.the axle i have is a 3.55 the drums have a 10.25 ring gear. please tell me that they should just come off and i dont have to take the axle apart
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: peoria, az
I can't see removing those four bolts to get the drum off. If they are the ones I'm thinking of, you have to remove the drum to get to them. If you have a full-floating axle, you will have 6 or 8 smaller bolts in the center of where the lugs are which would have to be removed with the axle before you could get the drum off but, I don't think you have that set-up either. Usually the drums get stuck to the axle flange and you can squirt some penetrating oil on it and I usually smack it 3 or 4 times around the flange to break it loose. For the realy stuck ones, a pair of screwdrivers to pry it back and forth and a Lot of patience.
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From: Still under the hood in O
Yeah you do need to pull the axle shaft out to do the brakes. It is actually pretty easy to do. These Full Floater rears are very much like the Ch3vy FF's. I have done a number of these now, and like you, was very hesitant the first time because I never had pulled an axle before.
Just make sure you have the side your working on higher than the pumpkin. The first time I did it I had gear oil all over the place (leaked out the axle tube).
Good luck.
Just make sure you have the side your working on higher than the pumpkin. The first time I did it I had gear oil all over the place (leaked out the axle tube).
Good luck.
