Can anyone tell me what these deposits that actually look like metal bumps?

 

What are these off brand plugs. We are not sure what they are made of . Already chinese fake/counterfeit plugs are causing problems .
I use champion plugs because they are stronger and are the only double platinum plugs . Even world war 2 planes used platinum plugs ,the mechanics kept the old ones as they were valuable scrap. Platinum is very expensive ,more than gold so cheaper plugs are not going to use much of it .
I have not seen the deposits you show but you should show the whole plug . It lets us see if the blowby is traveling up the threads. Blowby and loose plugs acts just like a cutting torch ,the oxygen passing that hot carbon around the tip will glow white hot and destroy the plug. New torque specs are 25 to 28 foot pounds . Loose plugs on these engines have been a constant problem, for many reasons , hard to get to ,aluminum heads, more labor required to get to them ,failure to use torque wrench . .

 

Looks like that plug did a good bit of voltage leakage through the shell.

 

The picture it too blurry to see the deposits in detail. Can you post a more clear picture?

 

Maybe E3 spark plugs

 

Yes they are e3 plugs about 6000 miles.

 

E3 Plug with about 6000 miles. It was pretty hard to get out and there were some white deposits on the thread.

 

Found your problem, let's hope you didn't cause any internal issues. Put the correct genuine parts on there and try again.

 

e3 's are not that well thought of. Cost of good plugs between 10 to 17 each .Set of 8 gets expensive but you are buying for 60k miles no more but in the past we had to change plugs 10 to 20k .Plus the labor cost is atrocious. Maybe someone can say its some additive or alcohol - do you use e85?
There are a few who were defending e3's but I don't have much faith in that . At 85 to To nearly 145 bucks you can see counterfeiting the brand names a real china problem . I buy 7989 champions because I lost faith in ford mc during their original 2 plug debacle . I broke 2 of the orig so after sweating blood I said never again . But I'm sure the sp546 is good now ,I just have no reason to change now at 225k .
I'm glad you got them out in time ,I know how sick it can make you when you may have to pull a head. I only use techron as an additive -nothing can get to that carbon thru fuel . Carb cleaner will disolve carbon when plug is out but it takes a little work to put it back to factory clean , just don't drop anything into cly , the carb cleaner will evap quickly or burn out. Ford had it on their tsb for broken plugs but it was hard to get it past the threads on a 1/8 to 1/4 turn even left overnight.
I would ask you if you are running factory cops they are the best and rarely fail but you have to clean corrosion off contacts. They are not a normal maint item to replace. I have 7 orig at 225k , wish I knew to clean the one I threw away.
Are the rest of the plugs looking like this one?

 

I've had great results with E3 plugs in my outdoor power equipment but that's as far as they go. Especially considering the terrible problems associated with the Ford Triton engine sparkplugs, you would be very wise to use only the authentic parts.

 

Yep, yep and yep!

Ever since first acquiring a Modular Motor I've used nothing but Ford/Motorcraft plugs, a thin coating of nickel-based anti-seize on the threads and torquing them to just about 25 ft/lbs with a properly calibrated torque wrench. Two engines have run to 296 +K miles, another Ford reman'd engine just at 52K miles presently.

I would carefully considering having Heli-coil plug hole redone using the Cal-Van or Time-Sert kit.