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I recently had my engine pulled to re seal everything, front cover, oil pan, etc. I had a Riff Raff deleted pedestal put in, high flow outlet, and bellowed up pipes at that time. Since getting the truck back I have only been able to get about 22ish psi of boost at WOT . Would the high flow outlet cause lower boost or do I possibly have a boost leak? I have an older TS chip in and before the repairs I was able to get boost high enough for the CEL to come on but not since.
Side issue, should probably have a new thread. This weekend, engaged 4x4 to drive up our hill, got to the top and disengaged 4x4, put it in reverse and the truck almost stalled. Happened twice, under the same conditions. Did not do it any other time I reversed.
Thanks, I actually watched that video earlier this morning and plan to make it soon. You are correct, I had a local diesel shop do the work for me. Boost seems normal under normal load the rest of the time, only at WOT it isn't as high as it used to be, even with the major exhaust leak I had in the up pipes prior to replacing.
Where do you read boost? Mechanical gauge?
Did the shop add an overboost control regulator? If you are reading from the PCM channel it will only go up to around 24psi, but a OCR will regulate down to around 22psi as seen by the computer.
I would be looking for boost leaks, uppipe leaks, or wastegate issues.
Where do you read boost? Mechanical gauge?
Did the shop add an overboost control regulator? If you are reading from the PCM channel it will only go up to around 24psi, but a OCR will regulate down to around 22psi as seen by the computer.
I would be looking for boost leaks, uppipe leaks, or wastegate issues.
Boost is read via mechanical gauge. I will check the fitting on the back later to make sure it didn't come loose. I'll also get the materials to build a leak detector. No overboost control was installed, just the high flow outlet, EBPV deleted pedestal, and bellowed up pipes.
I drove it to work this morning and was able to hit 25 ish psi on one WOT and CEL came on. Next two attempts I was only seeing 22-23.
Do y'all have any thoughts on the weird almost stall after disengaging 4x4 and reversing?
Good morning. I haven't had an opportunity to do a boost leak test, however looking at it last night I noticed the boots on the vacuum lines on the waste gate solenoid and waste gate connection are all rotted and falling apart. I suspect this is a big part of the leak I'm experiencing. Can the double vacuum elbow at the solenoid be replaced with 2 singles or does the double serve a specific function?
I have a feeling the wastegate actuator oprod got lengthened to make it easier to slip over the wastegate lever. Watch this video to see how to tighten it. Jump to around 6:00 to skip all the introductory yapping.
The red/green lines can be deleted. They cause the wastegate to open early…
A small plug with a zip tie on the spider and a screw or such in the intake where the green line goes in is all you need.
Do y'all have any thoughts on the weird almost stall after disengaging 4x4 and reversing?
Check where the engine wire harness passes over the driver's side valve cover for insulation wear and shorts. My last truck did this - stalled in reverse - when the engine would rock and cause the wires to chaff/short. Easy fix if chaffed to wrap up the wires with tape.
Do you get any dash warning lights during the stall, like CEL, WTS? That's another clue it's electrical.
Reverse stall can also be transmission related - how is the transmission fluid level warmed up, in park, at idle?
Check where the engine wire harness passes over the driver's side valve cover for insulation wear and shorts. My last truck did this - stalled in reverse - when the engine would rock and cause the wires to chaff/short. Easy fix if chaffed to wrap up the wires with tape.
Do you get any dash warning lights during the stall, like CEL, WTS? That's another clue it's electrical.
Reverse stall can also be transmission related - how is the transmission fluid level warmed up, in park, at idle?
Also check for disconnected/broken grounds. Especially the one above the brake booster on the firewall.
I'll double check those things. No lights on dash and it isn't a full stall, just like a stumble. RPMs dropped and acted like it was going to die but then came back. Weird that it has only happened those 2 times, and only after disengaging 4x4 then going into reverse. Transmission fluid was fine the last time I checked and no leaks but I will also check that again. Thanks for the suggestions.
Regarding the weird almost stall issue: Checked transmission fluid last night, warm, while running and couldn't even get it to read on the dipstick. Weird considering it appeared normal just a few weeks ago and I have no obvious leaks. Only had about 1/3 of a quart in the garage so I put that in but still couldn't seem to get an accurate reading. Will get more today and see.
No chance to explore any of the wiring harnesses yet and no chance to do a boost leak test. Should be able to get to that next week sometime.
Have a good look around the transmission case, cooling lines as they run toward the radiator, the radiator lower fittings where they go into the OTW cooler and if you still see nothing, have a look toward the top.
Unless the fluid was low from the start, it leaked out from somewhere.
Keep us updated and post pictures if you would like some second (from a distance) opinions.
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