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So, I'm new here as my Excursion is somewhat new to me as well. I'm a lifelong car enthusiast, I have classic cars and motorcycles that I enjoy (usually) working on.. haha. Right now, I have been trying to track down a crazy brake issue that I have done a LOT of searching on this forum for answers. So far, I have come up short. Here is a summary of where I'm at. I'm hopeful that this will become a helpful post for this issue in the future.
The problem: Mostly when WARM, the truck will dive LEFT on braking. Enough where I do not want my fiance (or anyone else) to drive this vehicle I think she could lose control of it.
Over the winter, I replaced all of my front suspension, wheel bearings, hubs, everything.. you name it, it's new. I also replaced all 4 calipers and rotors, and pads. In addition, I have new tires and my truck has been aligned by my mechanic who I trust very much and knows these big trucks very well (they have other customers with Excursions) several times in hunting the problem down. In trying to pinpoint the issue, my mechanic has re-bled the brakes many times since they have replaced all 4 brake hoses, and also there is a flex line along the firewall that most folks don't know about that's been replaced. I guess it runs from the master to then split off to the rest of the hard lines.
We have replaced the front calipers again - front pads again - rotors again - all 4 corners. No change. So, the items I installed were deemed A-OK. I used PowerStop rotors and calipers BTW. SO, here we are.. uanble to find the issue. I gave the go-ahead this morning to replace the master cylinder. There have been discussions of bypassing the ABS module as well but I would really rather not do that. I also randomly read about adjusting the brake pedal or something in regard to pressure being applied to the master but I didn't really understand what that was all about, it seemed to be related to all 4 brakes locking up on someone's truck.
Any thoughts you folks have would be greatly appreciated. I am unfortunately far beyond lubing the slides, checking temps of rotors (all been done).. SOMETHING is making the pressure not equal in the system.. but for the life of me.. I cannot figure this out. Help!
Thank you!!
Jim
Ive been chasing this damn problem in my 2001 Excursion 4x4 as well since I bought mine used in 2018. Same symptoms as you, only my brake pull will occasionally ALSO go to the right just as hard for a few days. Then out of nowhere it will pull left again. Ive replaced both calipers with FoMoCo remans, both hoses, brand new Motorcraft rotors and Blue Label pads. Last year I replaced all 4 ball joints, both front hubs, replaced the outer front axle stubs, u joints, vacuum seals. Ive cross rotated my front tires a few times too. Prior owner replaced the front springs with X codes. I checked his work and replaced the U bolts with ATS u bolts. Nothing has changed.
I just purchased a used ABS module and valve body and was going to install it. Its the only thing that realistically makes sense. But if you replaced yours and its STILL doing it... F me...
I cant find anything loose in the steering from.
Im honestly thinking of buying a gopro and mount and aiming it at certain spots of the steering. Perform a few road tests for both sides and see if there is something loose or worn that Im not seeing. Ive had my wife in the truck turning the wheel back and forth while I felt each tie rod, ball joint and pitman joints for slop once and couldnt find anything. Could a steering box really cause this left and sometimes right pulling?
Not to brag or pity party, but Ive been an ASE master certified tech for over 10 years... and Im stumped. I literally have used all my steering and brake theory notes and even class books and Ive got nothing to explain this...
Im almost ready to take it to the dealer, pay for an hour and let them give it their best with.
Very much so. I didn't bring that up to Jim as he has replaced the brakes with new ones. But, we also found that with aftermarket pads often the stamped steelbacks were out of spec in the tabs, causing the pads to hang in the brackets. On any aftermarket build, the first thing we would do was check the pads for free movement in the brackets before the calipers got swung over.
Brake pads have a bad habit of rusting on the ends once the paint rubs off. Aftermarket pads also can have excessive paint, too. Once we had the pads moving freely in the brackets, we coated everything where rust could grow and take up the clearance with silicone brake grease. That included between the bracket and the stainless steel slippers.
Yes Ihave run into auto zone pads that would not fit in the bracket at all and had to grind them on the end and makethem fit. also I don't drive mine very often and have the issue after sitting awhile. Thank you for showing pics as Idon[t do photos;
I will definitely try this. I just sent my GEM module out to be repaired so my truck is off the road for probably a week so it’ll be a minute before results come back.
I worked for FMO from 1998 until 2006. They were headquartered in Southfield MI which is where I was mostly, and had various facilities around the Detroit area.
I had an issue with my passenger rear brakes not working and after over 50k I noticed the right side of the rear diff cover looked caked with dirt. My brake pedal started getting soft and I noticed a new drip from the shock mount and found the hard brake line was being pinched by the rear shock mount u bolt. I guess the previous owner might have had some work done and they accidentally put the u bolt over the line and it finally wore through.
Any updates on this? I'm chasing the same problem on my 01 7.3 4x4. pulls left while braking semi-hard. Seems worse after the brakes warm up. Okayish when cool.
Not sure if any of you have resolved this issue? But, recently on my wife's trailblazer after I got done putting on new brakes-pads and rotors i had a very similar experience with it, we got new tires and had it aligned, when braking it pulled hard to the right. It turned out to be the lower control arm bushings! Was not brake related at all... so be sure to check your upper and lower ball joints and the bushings in the upper and lower control arms. Different vehicle but very similar experience so I thought I'd report my finding.
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