When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I've driven the truck some more, with no changes. It still pulls when warm, but also now it kind of stops when it gets "warmer" .. or just more driving.. I don't know. I temp checked the rotors today and my right rear seems hotter than the others but not by a ton. The rotor, depending on where you hit it with the laser, has varying temps but they seem to land in the 160-180 degree range. The right rear one is over 200, around 220 in some spots. I'm going to drive it again tonight running errands and keep checking that one against the others.
The question is - is that enough temp variance to be the cause of my pull to the LEFT when I'm braking? From what I understand, a binding caliper on the right will cause a pull in the opposite direction.
A rotor will have varying temps based on its radius; that's normal. This is why you always take rotor spot checks at the same location. How quickly you take the temps side to side or front to back also alters the values. Front to back axle depends on driving history.
Whether a friction material had higher friction or lower friction at different temperatures depends on the formulation, iron in the material, or other components. Every friction material has a bell curve to the coefficient of friction based on heat. Cold and excessive heat (fade) will be lower in friction.
A good, Passenger Car Ceramic (organic) or Light Truck Low-Met material
A good OE Semi-Met Light-Medium Truck material
A Medium to Heavy Truck or Racing material
What it sounds like, though, is at least on that axle, there is a differential in clearance pads to rotor where the right has less clearance than the left, so there is a minor heat build-up until enough braking activity where it settles out when "warmer" or thermally soaked.
No way to really know unless there was instrumentation on the vehicle. Pulls are usually felt from 70 to 100ºF, but mostly at 100º.
Hmm.. well maybe if I just keep driving it things will even out, I don't know. I have read every single thread on every forum on this topic, and they ALL seem to end with no resolution. People are just seeming to give up. Another thing I read on a TSB (attached here) is that it could be the front leaf springs. My mechanic kind of mentioned it in passing but he didn't want to go down that road - but at this point, what's left? I am tired of throwing parts at this thing, but I really think it should be stopping straight! I don't see any reasonable reason why it won't stop normally at this point. I'm so frustrated I'm ready to sell it.
I understand the frustration and very familiar with that TSB, I was very involved in part of it. I'm trying to sort out any of the brake possibilities, because when they are over, you're into things that get expensive when not in warranty. The brake pad edge code, ABEX 6091EE, I worked for Abex, Now look at my signature.
Post 29, that's why there is a thermocouple in the middle of the brake pad - testing.
I understand the frustration and very familiar with that TSB, I was very involved in part of it. I'm trying to sort out any of the brake possibilities, because when they are over, you're into things that get expensive when not in warranty. The brake pad edge code, ABEX 6091EE, I worked for Abex, Now look at my signature.
Post 29, that's why there is a thermocouple in the middle of the brake pad - testing.
Thanks TooManyToys - you're the brake guy here for sure! I used to work for Federal-Mogul back when, speaking of companies that make brakes! I was an IT guy though but I used to love going to the testing garage and checking out what they were up to.
I understand the frustration and very familiar with that TSB, I was very involved in part of it. I'm trying to sort out any of the brake possibilities, because when they are over, you're into things that get expensive when not in warranty. The brake pad edge code, ABEX 6091EE, I worked for Abex, Now look at my signature.
Post 29, that's why there is a thermocouple in the middle of the brake pad - testing.
I drove around again today running errands.. was doing about 75 on the highway, had to slow down to come to a stop, and holy crap when I hit the brakes, my truck dove hard left nearly out of control .. I had to swing the steering wheel hard right to regain control of it. That was the worst experience yet.. ugh.
It's so frustrating because this only happens when the truck is warm or has been driven. It doesn't do it cold. I just don't get this.. I don't know what's left to do. I guess I'll go through and lubricate all the slides, even though every single caliper is new, and in the case of the fronts, the 2nd set of new ones (as well as pads..).
This sucks. This truck is not at all safe to drive and I have put so much money and time and research into everything going on. I just hate it.
I drove around again today running errands.. was doing about 75 on the highway, had to slow down to come to a stop, and holy crap when I hit the brakes, my truck dove hard left nearly out of control .. I had to swing the steering wheel hard right to regain control of it. That was the worst experience yet.. ugh.
It's so frustrating because this only happens when the truck is warm or has been driven. It doesn't do it cold. I just don't get this.. I don't know what's left to do. I guess I'll go through and lubricate all the slides, even though every single caliper is new, and in the case of the fronts, the 2nd set of new ones (as well as pads..).
This sucks. This truck is not at all safe to drive and I have put so much money and time and research into everything going on. I just hate it.
The slide pins are not in the caliper. Make sure all the pins are moving nicely and have full travel.
One caliper is dragging and heating up the pads, causing a change in friction. I would do a highway run like that at speed and distance when traffic is very light so you don’t need to use the brakes, use the trans to slow as much as possible and coast to a stop on the shoulder. Use the heat gun to check all four rotors at the same radius.
One caliper is dragging and heating up the pads, causing a change in friction. I would do a highway run like that at speed and distance when traffic is very light so you don’t need to use the brakes, use the trans to slow as much as possible and coast to a stop on the shoulder. Use the heat gun to check all four rotors at the same radius.
What city/town did you work at and what years?
I will definitely try this. I just sent my GEM module out to be repaired so my truck is off the road for probably a week so it’ll be a minute before results come back.
I worked for FMO from 1998 until 2006. They were headquartered in Southfield MI which is where I was mostly, and had various facilities around the Detroit area.
We were assimilated into F-M around 2001 as part of the Cooper group, which Cooper bought us a few years earlier. At that time, Ferodo’s vehicle and noise testing were in Livonia. During the merger, Abex’s management took the lead, the manager at Livonia was removed, and I took turns supervising the site. The facility was moved to Plymouth. I was asked to take over the management there, I declined. The vehicle testing was not as sophisticated as NJ and more constrained in what could be done without going directly to a test track. In NJ, we had open road access, and I had a facility in Van Nuys to cover the LA test programs. And I’m A vehicle guy, not a dyno guy.
As you may or may not know, Germany was not happy with the Abex arrangement and pushed F-M for Ferodo to be in charge of friction. That led to the closure of the Mahwah dyno facility (the world's largest), the closure of my Van Nuys facility, and finally, the closure of the NJ facility in 2008.
We were assimilated into F-M around 2001 as part of the Cooper group, which Cooper bought us a few years earlier. At that time, Ferodo’s vehicle and noise testing were in Livonia. During the merger, Abex’s management took the lead, the manager at Livonia was removed, and I took turns supervising the site. The facility was moved to Plymouth. I was asked to take over the management there, I declined. The vehicle testing was not as sophisticated as NJ and more constrained in what could be done without going directly to a test track. In NJ, we had open road access, and I had a facility in Van Nuys to cover the LA test programs. And I’m A vehicle guy, not a dyno guy.
As you may or may not know, Germany was not happy with the Abex arrangement and pushed F-M for Ferodo to be in charge of friction. That led to the closure of the Mahwah dyno facility (the world's largest), the closure of my Van Nuys facility, and finally, the closure of the NJ facility in 2008.
What a small world. The facility in Livonia is where I use to go to visit my friend there who was doing a lot of testing, I was the guy that set up the computers / servers etc there, among other places. Crazy how FMO was so huge, with so many subsidiaries, and then shrank down to near nothing now.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
