That's odd. Does the display change from when the probes are not touching anything? I would assume in that case the display shows OL.

Oh, is the meter you're using an auto-ranging meter or one where you need to select the resistance range? If a manual meter, try selecting a larger range to see if that solves the issue. In the case of being on too low of a range I'd still expect an OL reading, but different meter manufacturers may do things differently.

-Rod

 

Interesting problem. The IAC problem can occur at idle. The vehicle will die at an intersection, start and die unless throttle is added. The valve can also stick giving a higher idle. You can clean the valve as a temporary fix. It's better to replace the valve. If there is carbon inside the intake, most likely there is carbon on the valve shaft. Anyone remember the old days of spraying the carburetor choke? I have had this problem on three different vehicles (not all Fords), either with high idle or no idle.

I am an electrician by trade with 25 years of experience. K.I.S.S. is still a simple solution and an easy fix. Remember, not all electrical problems are electrical.
I was looking for Cutlass body parts in the local Pick-N-Pull and noticed the IAC's were all removed from under the open hoods.

 

Wolfmeiser;
I have, and am presently having a similar issue. About two months I was headed out to my local Wal-Smart. My Explorer started just as it has for months on end. However, after completing my shopping, I got in my Explorer and turn on the ignition. My vehicle turn over (rather strongly) but just would not start. So, I pumped the gas pedal a couple of time and the engine started. The start was somewhat rough but it did mellow out and I was able to head to another errand location. Well, that was a mistake. The same thing happened. I started my Explore and experienced the same problem as I did over at Wal-Smart.
Well, David 7.3 replied to my post and provided me with a list of possible causes. . . fuel filter, IAC valve and some other issues.
Well AAA just replace my fuel pump about six-months earlier and according to the bill, said they replaced the fuel filter as well.
No doubt this was a head-scratcher. I checked the air filter (good), the MAP sensor (good) so, I purchased a new IAC valve and installed it. After installing the new IAC valve, my truck ran absolutely great for about three weeks. Then last Friday (Oct. 17) as I was headed out to my local Wal-Smart again, I got in my truck and it started just like it normally should. Then when I pulled the shifter into the [D}rive position after allowing the engine to properly warm up, the engine died.
After getting the engine started once again (running roughly), the engine died as soon as I pulled the shifter into [D]rive.
As I said, my IAC value is brand new, so could it be something else that could be causing the engine to die?
How about the H20 sensors? I even took the air intake housing off and cleaned the throttle position plate with a carburetor cleaner along with the return spring. But all that was to no avail. My Explorer starts great when cold but immediately dies as soon as I pull the shifter down.
I even thought it could possibly be the catalytic converter. I had a similar issue with a 1998 Chevrolet Corsair I had. The catalytic converter burned out and blocked the the exhaust flow in the exhaust system and the car stalled or died every time I came to a stop.
While your experience is something similar to mine, n my case, I know my IAC valve is good (because it is new which doesn't mean a thing these days). But I'll do voltage measurements just in case.

 

I would definitely look at the Cats. I heard there was a simple way to check Cat flow if you can keep you car running, by using laser temp gauge (pyrometer). Available at harbor fleight. The cat is supposed to generate more heat as the exhaust passes thru them if its working. Check here for more info. Symptoms Clogged Catalytic Converter: Loss of Power