Maybe the drive belt if it's stretch so far that it's slipping bad and not turning the alternator...just had to complete the sentance

 

heh. yea, that was causing the problem with my truck... mine was slipping so bad it was turning a lot slower than it should have, and thats why i was reading 12 volts at the battery while it was idling... not turning the alternator fast enough, nor was it turning the power steering pump fast enough and causing my power steering to give out while i was driving (turning).

 

Hey guys... I did some more testing... the issue only happens when the car is at normal operating temperature. If the X is cold and I turn on AC or heater, the idle will drop a bit but it keeps running (very lean). If its warmed up, it just dies. Help!

This is the 4.0 motor (2001 Explorer Sport). I'll have to investigate the intake leak issue...

Thanks...

 

See if you have any stored computer codes,

 

Great post! Helped me out today with my IAC... that's for sure!

 

The pictures no longer exist in the original post. Can anyone tell or show me where the IAC is on a SOHC 4.0 Explorer?

Many, many thanks!

 

Try this.

http://tinyurl.com/ya4kch

 

Great TIP on the IAC! I am adding a cleaning to my maintenance schedule for my 2000 Ford Explorer. THANKS!!!!!!

 

Hea guys, I can also sell you these IAC at a good price.

Ed

 

I have the symptoms listed above. Does anyone have photos of where the IAC is located?

 

Here you go.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...r_IAC_Fix.html

 

I originally had the same symptoms as Wolfmeister indicated in this post but by the time I got home before testing the IAC, I didn't have the symptoms anymore. My test results using the test procedures above tested the IAC to be good. So does the IAC go bad in certain weather conditions, I would suspect that the IAC would be bad no matter what the weather was like.

I also broke the locking tab on the connector, anyway to replace that with out a major wiring overhaul?

I have a 98 Ford V6 4.0L XLT.

 

I had an IAC valve replacement from he11. Over the holidays I needed to put new front brakes on my '99 V8 Ex. So I pulled the vehicle in the garage and went to work. Simple job and got it done in about 30 minutes. Used Akebono ProAct ceramic and like them very much. Back to the topic - since I already had the vehicle in the garage I decided that I should work on my idle problem that I have had for a short while.

After checking my manual and searching this forum, I determined it was the IAC valve. Went to the NAPA store and got one for about $65. Found the valve, sitting right on top of the V8. Got my wrench and proceeded to remove the tow bolts. With very little torque (14" socket) they both snapped off flush with the mouting bracket. Son of a gun! How c0uld that happen?

To make a slong story short, I spend the next couple of days trying to remove the broken bolts using Ez Out extractor to no avail. Actually broke the hardened ez out ioff n one of the bolts. Ended up having to drill out and tap new holes, one through the bolt and one had to be moved outward due to the extractor being broken off in the bolt.

The only thing I can figure is that it had been replaced once before I got it (I got it with only 17k miles) and someone (idiot) used permanent (red) loctite on the bolt. That stuff does not let go! I tried heat to no avail during my 2 days of messing with it.

Moral of the story - Do not use permanent loctite on anything that may ever need to be removed. Permanent really does mean permanent.

Mason

 

Wow! Talk about turning an easy fix into a major PITA!

 

You said it! It turned a 20 minute job into a multi-day job. At least the vehicle idles well now and I got some new tools out of it. My wife thought I was just making it up so I could buy some more tools (ez-outs and tap and die set).

Mason