95 no start issue
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95 no start issue
Alright I got a 1995 351 F250, and I was doing 70 down the freeway and she just shut off. Not sputter no stall just shut off. It cranks, and sounds like it wants to run. No milkshake in the oil or radiator. No new leaks. Honestly my Coolant temp sensor went out last month and I’ve been lazy and haven’t done it so idk where temp was but i could grab the upper hose for a few seconds before it was to hot.
it looked like maybe it popped a CEL but I don’t have OBD1 scanner, any ideas?
it looked like maybe it popped a CEL but I don’t have OBD1 scanner, any ideas?
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Yes both fuel pumps are priming normally. I just bought a code scanner and got code 565. But I don’t think a purge canister would keep me from running?! No other codes.
just pulled #1 spark plug and rested it on the head, cranked the motor over and no spark, my plugs are definitely warn out, but it was running fine.
just pulled #1 spark plug and rested it on the head, cranked the motor over and no spark, my plugs are definitely warn out, but it was running fine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,013
Likes: 205
From: SoCal
I think you're getting close; something in the ignition stopped working. Does your engine have the TFI module screwed to the base of the distributor? Those are known to overheat and fail. Even if that's not where yours is installed, it's something to check. It's cheap enough to replace.
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I think you're getting close; something in the ignition stopped working. Does your engine have the TFI module screwed to the base of the distributor? Those are known to overheat and fail. Even if that's not where yours is installed, it's something to check. It's cheap enough to replace.
from what I’ve read it sounds like either TFI or PIP maybe even the coil. The truck has 200k on all stock parts now so I figure I’ll just throw a new oe distributor and coil in give it a full tune up and we should be good to go. If not I have no idea. But I’ll have a all new ignition.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: N.W. Alabama
Hang on to your old one, no guarantee, the refurbish, will work, they sometimes, forget to replace the PIP.
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
test 7 is for PIP-->Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
test 7 is for PIP-->Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
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So I’ve done the icm mounted to the fender wall, found out that there is 2 styles and at first I got the gray one, then I got the black one, black was what was on the truck originally. Neither returned spark. Today I’m doing coil, and brand new distributor and pip. Any advice on the distributor? I’ve done lots of reading to the point I’m scared of the oil pump pin. I’ve done dizzys on Honda’s and chevys before but this will be my first Ford. How much different is it with the oil pump being driven of the distributor?
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 854
Likes: 39
From: Mid Missouri
It’s no problem. Just take off the mounting bolt and plate and twist it out (sometimes you have to coax them off with a rubber mallet.) The shaft won’t come out and fall in the pan if that’s what you’re worried about.
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that’s exactly what I was worried about according to the “Internet experts“ its pretty common to lose the pin.
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New User
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UPDATE truck is back on the road and running better then ever, problem was the PIP, new distributor and she fired right up, my spark plugs where gapped at .80 so we replaced them and got it running better then ever within the last 2 years, and this truck absolutely rips now.
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