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Has anyone here had to replace the Climate Control Module in their trucks? My AC stopped working on my last trip home in the fall, I parked the truck for the winter season and sent it to the shop this spring for maintenance. When the AC was addressed they said it was the high pressure cut of switch, so they replaced that, a $20.00 part..no big deal, and still no AC. They then told me the Climate Control Module wasn't sending enough volts too the high pressure cut of switch, that it was sending 10.4 volts and was suppose to be sending battery volts, still waiting for the results of this replacement, which by the way is a VERY expensive item. Just curious how prevalent this CCM problem is. It's a trusted shop I'm using but I'm starting to feel like they are throwing parts at this problem.
This may have been better suited for the Super duty Forum, but since I rarely go there I thought I try my luck here.
Can you post up exactly what is (or isn't) happening? Maybe the details will help someone recognize the issue and pop in to help.
Compressor isn't engaging?
Blower doesn't come on?
Not cooling, and/or blowing out of the wrong vents?
etc.
The compressor isn’t engaging. That’s pretty much all I know about it other than the said if they bypass the com the ac will work, that is what I’ve been told. I just checked with the shop and the ccm did not fix the problem. They are stumped.
Last edited by Mcrafty1; Apr 29, 2021 at 01:10 PM.
Reason: More info,
I just called back and they said everything comes on just as it should and the scanner says everything is doing what it should, except the ac clutch just doesn’t engage, but they can by pass it and put power directly to the compressor and it comes on and cools
So, and I could be totally wrong here, wouldn’t that seem to indicate that there is a break in the circuit somewhere? If the ccm is sending signal/power to the compressor and it’s not engaging, but it does when they apply power directly to it...
Does applying power directly bypass the low and high pressure switches?
So, and I could be totally wrong here, wouldn’t that seem to indicate that there is a break in the circuit somewhere? If the ccm is sending signal/power to the compressor and it’s not engaging, but it does when they apply power directly to it...
Does applying power directly bypass the low and high pressure switches?
Thanks, Not sure just what they've tested to this point . I do know the high pressure was replaced, that is new, the ccm has also been replaced. Raining here this morning, dirt work on hold, I'm going to go to the shop and check with the tech and try and find out just what its doing now. I will update after that. Thanks for all the responses, all good info, and much appreciated.
So, and I could be totally wrong here, wouldn’t that seem to indicate that there is a break in the circuit somewhere? If the ccm is sending signal/power to the compressor and it’s not engaging, but it does when they apply power directly to it...
Does applying power directly bypass the low and high pressure switches?
Update, I went to the shop today, talked to the owner and he tells me the ccm is talking to the ecm, the ecm is not activating the relay that contols the compressor. When they bypass the ecm/ relay the compressor starts but doesn't kick in and out like it would normally, runs continuously.
There’s too many “_cm’s” for me to keep track of 😳
So it sounds like the ECM is the culprit? I would think if you apply power directly to the compressor it would bypass the high/low switches but I could be wrong. Maybe they’re applying it through the normal wires vs “directly” like I’m thinking of.
There’s too many “_cm’s” for me to keep track of 😳
So it sounds like the ECM is the culprit? I would think if you apply power directly to the compressor it would bypass the high/low switches but I could be wrong. Maybe they’re applying it through the normal wires vs “directly” like I’m thinking of.
They’re thinking the ECM now too, just want to be sure...they are expensive. I’m just now looking to see what it will cost to replace that.
The PCM "switched ground" for the A/C clutch relay gets power from fuse #23 in the Central Junction Box. They are sure the issue is on the "applied ground" side? Not the fuse or the relay (#203 under the hood) itself?
Just got off the phone, they found a plugged orifice/screen, within the system, they’ve cleaned that and it is working fine now, they are going to keep it for a day or two to be sure that it has no leaks and continues to function properly. I will let you guys know how this shakes out, Thanks for all suggestions.
Just make sure they install it the right way...one time a Ford tech put mine in backwards and while it worked, it was a PAIN to get out when I replaced the AC compressor and went to install a new orifice tube. 😂
Just make sure they install it the right way...one time a Ford tech put mine in backwards and while it worked, it was a PAIN to get out when I replaced the AC compressor and went to install a new orifice tube. 😂
Still not completely out of the woods with this, but it does appear that the plugged orifice was the culprit. If its still working monday life will be good. I wasn't there when this was discovered/repaired and its back together now so it is what it is, I just hope I never have to have it apart again to find out how its installed.
Just picked my truck up from the shop, the plugged orifice in the AC was the problem, everything is working great now. I didnt get a chance to talk to the tech that found/fixed it so I can't say where it is in the system but with the age these trucks are getting on them if anyone has AC issues that would be one place to look.
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