When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So after busting one nipple off my original stock pollak valve, i cant seem to find a replacement. I ordered a chinese one off Fleabay, I’m hoping its gonna be plug and play but im not even sure the the fuel line fittings are the same. https://www.ebay.com/itm/283907790649 Anybody ever try one of these Fleabay valves? My valve was fine, i broke the nipple try to remove the crappy cheesy Ford clips on the fuel line. Once you know where to pry, its not hard- pry under the little triangle portion of the clip, not the end. I have changed every component in this fuel system, IP pump, lift pump, new injectors, new caps, o-rings, return lines- its been a nightmare. If the truck sat more than 3 days, it would fire up, then die, the lift pump would lose the prime. So, now I bought a nice Facet electric pump. Do I keep the plumbing to the lift pump, and have the Facet and the lift pump, or bypass it completely a go straight to the filter housing? If this chinese valve is not compatible, I guess I gotta plumb in brass selector valves? All advice appreciated
I don't see why the one you linked wouldn't work. Just make sure you connect to it correctly.
FWIW, I would remove the mechanical lift pump when you install the Facet pump. There's a chance the mechanical lift pump can blow a diaphragm and pump diesel into the crankcase (it happened to me).
I don't see why the one you linked wouldn't work. Just make sure you connect to it correctly.
FWIW, I would remove the mechanical lift pump when you install the Facet pump. There's a chance the mechanical lift pump can blow a diaphragm and pump diesel into the crankcase (it happened to me).
I guess I will bypass the lift pump. Kinda liked the idea of two fuel pumps but Indont need to be pumping the crankcase full of diesel. The valve you show on your link I dont think would work, as two of my lines go straight into the end of the valve, no 90 degree elbows. That valve show all 90 degree elbows.
Good news. Is your F250 a 2 tank setup, so you got a six port valve? And it is still working? (How many years)
Does your fuel tank gauges work too?
Yes my 250 has 2 tanks, other wise no need for the valve.
19 gallon in front and 38 gallon in rear.
Yes a 6 port valve.
I installed the new valve 2 1/2 years ago when I had the bed off
to install the new rear tank along with new senders and Shower
heads.
Haven`t had a problem when switching tanks...till yesterday.
I was up in Reno at PNP on my way home with another load of
treasures (60 miles) and was down to 1/4 tank, switched to
front and didn`t work.
Might just be the plug, as I remember I broke off one of the clips
from the plug and maybe it moved and not making contact.
The chicom valve is an exact copy of the factory valve, just does
not have the $400 price tag.
Those fuel line lips are a simple way to hold the fuel lines in.
I bought the tool to slip onto the line to pop the clip up. Then
after dickin with it realized a small screw driver will lift them
right up. But after 30 some years down the road the plastic
does get brittle. New clips are available from most auto supplies.
Thanks for the reply. Glad to know this Chicom valve will work. Why Ford has to constantly gouge its customers on parts is maddening. I really need this truck running, I use it all the time. Not being able to buy a simple part like this is irritating as well, I called 10 junkyards and no one has one. I agree, the clips are simple once you know where to pry, me not knowing is where my problems started.
If you call the PNP type yards, they won`t tell what parts are available.
You have to go browsing to find the treasures you are looking for.
Right now there are 3 IDI`s at the Carson City yard, 85, 86 and 89.
The 85 has a Snow Plow is any body needs one.
At the Sparks yard, (east of Reno) there is one 87 IDI. This one still
had the Turbo as of yesterday. (Banks) 4x4 & 5-spd.
Yeah they know how to jack up the prices for sure.
That big "F" in their name say`s it all.
So The Chicom valve arrived, ill head back to the Islands at the end of the month to put it in. Does the Pollak valve used these same type of “blade” connectors? I hope this works
I was worried the fittings wouldnt work, they looked different. Turns out they are just colored caps, protecting the nipples. If the electrical connection fits I think this may work. Ditch the engine driven lift pump, and go straight from the Facet pump to the filter. Should I plumb the Facet pump to push thru the selector valve, or draw from it?
Since the stock Pump pulls through the selector valve, probably best to plumb the same way.
Some mount the valve in the engine compartment and I think I read some mount it down on
the frame. I can`t comment on the Pollak valve, never used one.
Here is a YT good video, he has several he has posted, and a IDI Guru.
Poke around in YT lots of good info.
Got it. But replacing the Pollak with the Chicom valve, the electrical plug (original Ford) fit right on the Chicom valve? Or do I need some kind of adapter plug?
Since I have a Dump bed I’m going to put the Facet just below the cab. And plumb it to draw from the FSV.