Air Conditioning Compressor Replacement / Charging
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Air Conditioning Compressor Replacement / Charging
Good Evening Enthusiasts,
Tonight I finally finished up my Dana 60 swap in my 2001 7.3 Ex, and after a couple hours I noticed some green slime on my freshly painted axle tube. Looked around only to find that the whole passenger side of my AC compressor is lime green with dye, and it seems to be originating from the seam in the AC compressor case (indicating a bad/blown crankcase seal I believe).
I have messed around with smaller AC systems before on Camrys and VWs, but never anything with a rear AC system.
*DISCLAIMER* I am aware that before unhooking anything Ill have to go to an AC shop to have them deplete the freon...
My question is, if I remove/replace the compressor, can I pull a vacuum on the system for a few hours and just re-charge with some R-134 cans from Napa as you would if topping the system off? How many cans? Do these new compressors from Denso (Not Reman) come pre-filled with the correct amount of oil, or will I have to fully deplete/flush my trucks system and add oil to the compressor before running? I live in a dry climate (Sacramento), should I be fine to not replace the receiver/dyer if only opening the system for a short period?
Yeah, I'm ultimately just trying to save a few bucks since the compressors are on sale at Napa right now. A local shop is probably going to want upwards of $800 to do the full service, which I don't really want to pay since I can do most or all of the work myself in an afternoon.
Thanks in advance. -Jon
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DEO4718124
Tonight I finally finished up my Dana 60 swap in my 2001 7.3 Ex, and after a couple hours I noticed some green slime on my freshly painted axle tube. Looked around only to find that the whole passenger side of my AC compressor is lime green with dye, and it seems to be originating from the seam in the AC compressor case (indicating a bad/blown crankcase seal I believe).
I have messed around with smaller AC systems before on Camrys and VWs, but never anything with a rear AC system.
*DISCLAIMER* I am aware that before unhooking anything Ill have to go to an AC shop to have them deplete the freon...
My question is, if I remove/replace the compressor, can I pull a vacuum on the system for a few hours and just re-charge with some R-134 cans from Napa as you would if topping the system off? How many cans? Do these new compressors from Denso (Not Reman) come pre-filled with the correct amount of oil, or will I have to fully deplete/flush my trucks system and add oil to the compressor before running? I live in a dry climate (Sacramento), should I be fine to not replace the receiver/dyer if only opening the system for a short period?
Yeah, I'm ultimately just trying to save a few bucks since the compressors are on sale at Napa right now. A local shop is probably going to want upwards of $800 to do the full service, which I don't really want to pay since I can do most or all of the work myself in an afternoon.
Thanks in advance. -Jon
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DEO4718124
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 13
From: ND
A local shop did mine after i replaced the compressor a few years ago, was around $160. The excursion holds a lot of 134a, so the cost was about 30% higher than other vehicles i have done. Its worth it to me to have a shop do that part, then they can find the leaks if there are any.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
I am aware that before unhooking anything Ill have to go to an AC shop to have them deplete the freon...
should I be fine to not replace the receiver/dyer if only opening the system for a short period?
if I remove/replace the compressor, can I pull a vacuum on the system for a few hours and just re-charge with some R-134 cans from Napa as you would if topping the system off?
Do these new compressors from Denso (Not Reman) come pre-filled with the correct amount of oil, or will I have to fully deplete/flush my trucks system and add oil to the compressor before running?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
A local shop did mine after i replaced the compressor a few years ago, was around $160. The excursion holds a lot of 134a, so the cost was about 30% higher than other vehicles i have done. Its worth it to me to have a shop do that part, then they can find the leaks if there are any.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,191
Likes: 2,007
From: SW Washington
You also need to make sure you buy the correct type of oil. You can get it with dye. You will also need o-rings for the parts you replace. The compressor might come with them but the dryer and orifice will not. I paid $136 for a brand new Denso when I replaced the compressor in '01 Crown Victoria last year. It will probably cost something similar for your EX. The dryer was $30, the orifice and o-rings were a little over $9 each. I don't remember how much my shop charged me for the recharge of R134.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
Uh, no.
An Excursion with aux air takes 68 oz of refrigerant. Divide that by the amount in each can, usually 12 oz but can be different, to figure out how many cans are needed.
Without aux air, 42 oz.
An Excursion with aux air takes 68 oz of refrigerant. Divide that by the amount in each can, usually 12 oz but can be different, to figure out how many cans are needed.
Without aux air, 42 oz.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
We’ve got an honest shop around here, quoted $400 for labor including evac, installing my parts, purging and charging the fresh system. Figured that was worth it vs taking a stab at it in the driveway.
Parts total was $239:
Orifice Tube : TEM 207325 $19.99
Accumulator : TEM 408904 $35.19
Denso Compressor : DEN 471-8118 $163.99
Dang Motorcraft compressor is only 7 years old and it’s been purging out for two years now. The seal seems to be too far gone now though, green dye was dripping on the axle tube. Hopefully the DENSO has a better lifespan.
Parts total was $239:
Orifice Tube : TEM 207325 $19.99
Accumulator : TEM 408904 $35.19
Denso Compressor : DEN 471-8118 $163.99
Dang Motorcraft compressor is only 7 years old and it’s been purging out for two years now. The seal seems to be too far gone now though, green dye was dripping on the axle tube. Hopefully the DENSO has a better lifespan.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 13
From: ND
We’ve got an honest shop around here, quoted $400 for labor including evac, installing my parts, purging and charging the fresh system. Figured that was worth it vs taking a stab at it in the driveway.
Parts total was $239:
Orifice Tube : TEM 207325 $19.99
Accumulator : TEM 408904 $35.19
Denso Compressor : DEN 471-8118 $163.99
Dang Motorcraft compressor is only 7 years old and it’s been purging out for two years now. The seal seems to be too far gone now though, green dye was dripping on the axle tube. Hopefully the DENSO has a better lifespan.
Parts total was $239:
Orifice Tube : TEM 207325 $19.99
Accumulator : TEM 408904 $35.19
Denso Compressor : DEN 471-8118 $163.99
Dang Motorcraft compressor is only 7 years old and it’s been purging out for two years now. The seal seems to be too far gone now though, green dye was dripping on the axle tube. Hopefully the DENSO has a better lifespan.
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
A few years ago i bought a vac pump and some gauges. I have save THOUSANDS. Don't really know what I'm doing but i can open the system up to work on the engine and refill it myself, eventually i started messing with home HVAC. Saved a bunch there too.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
SO, the shop said that with the correct parts were closer to $960 parts and labor. That’s not really something I’m wanting to do, since the AC blows cold still, it’s just leaking out of the case o-ring.
Therefore, I decided I’m going to order the $22 reseal kit for my 8 year old motor craft compressor and just fix it myself. I’ll also replace the accumulator and orifice tube while I’m in there, since they’re cheap and easy.
The question is, will I need to draw a vacuum on the system if I only have it open for an hour or two? I live in a Very Dry climate in Sacramento, and I plan to cap/seal the lines as quick as I can once removed.
Also, I do not intend to flush the system, but I likely should add some oil since it’s been slowly leaking out for a little bit now, 2-3 ounces? It’s a guess but if I don’t spill any out of the compressor I think that should suffice.
After resealing it, re-install either pull a vacuum or just start shooting freon in there to get it back to spec!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
The question is, will I need to draw a vacuum on the system if I only have it open for an hour or two?
Refrigerant Oil Adding
[img]S1O~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif[/img] CAUTION: During normal A/C operation, oil is circulated through the system with the refrigerant, and a small amount is retained in each component. If certain components of the system are removed for new installation, some of the refrigerant oil will go with the component. To maintain the original total oil charge, it is necessary to compensate for the oil lost by adding oil to the system with the new part.- NOTE: Service A/C compressors are shipped without compressor oil.
Rotate the A/C compressor shaft six to eight revolutions while collecting oil in a clean measuring device.- If the amount of oil drained from the old A/C compressor is between 85-142 ml (3-5 ounces), pour the same amount plus 30 ml (1 ounce) of clean PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) F7AZ-19589-DA (Motorcraft YN-12-C) WSH M1C231-B or equivalent into the new A/C compressor.
- If the amount of oil that was removed from the old A/C compressor is greater than 142 ml (5 ounces), pour the same amount drained of clean PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) or equivalent into the new A/C compressor.
- If the amount of oil that was removed from the old A/C compressor is less than 85 ml (3 ounces), pour 85 ml (3 ounces) of clean PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) or equivalent into the new A/C compressor.
- For the suction accumulator/drier, drill one 13 mm (0.52 in) hole in the suction accumulator/drier cylinder and drain the oil into a calibrated container.
- Add a quantity of new oil to match that drained from the old suction accumulator/drier plus 60 ml (2 ounces) of clean PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) or equivalent.
- For the A/C evaporator core, add 89 ml (3 ounces) of clean PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) or equivalent to the suction accumulator/drier inlet tube.
- For the A/C condenser core, add 30 ml (1 ounce) of clean PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) or equivalent to the A/C condenser core or the suction accumulator/drier inlet tube.
- Add 60 ml (2 ounces) of clean PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) or equivalent to the suction accumulator/drier inlet tube when carrying out each of the following repairs:
- installation of a new A/C evaporator core orifice
- installation of a new A/C compressor pressure relief valve (19D644)
- installation of a new refrigerant line
- repair of an O-ring seal leak
- repair of a charge port leak
- Installation of new components that do not require discharge of refrigerant and resulting oil loss, such as the A/C cycling switch and the A/C pressure transducer, do not require additional oil.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Copy that, I’ll be purchasing a vac pump kit as well then.
thats a bit more oil than I expected to add, but I’ll drain each the compressor and the accumulator and follow the guide above for reinstalling.
Orifice tube replacement...
thats a bit more oil than I expected to add, but I’ll drain each the compressor and the accumulator and follow the guide above for reinstalling.
Orifice tube replacement...
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 13
From: ND
Copy that, I’ll be purchasing a vac pump kit as well then.
thats a bit more oil than I expected to add, but I’ll drain each the compressor and the accumulator and follow the guide above for reinstalling.
Orifice tube replacement...
https://youtu.be/qt3-2AJlpDI
thats a bit more oil than I expected to add, but I’ll drain each the compressor and the accumulator and follow the guide above for reinstalling.
Orifice tube replacement...
https://youtu.be/qt3-2AJlpDI
found it! Pic isn’t total, just the accumulator
