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I've decided to get a chip for my stock 2000 F250 7.3 w/ 200k miles. From asking on this thread and reading around, it seems the Hydra is probably the best way to go. That said, I want the ease of install/uninstall of a programmer that works through the OBDII port, so the Hydra is out. Here in California we have to smog them each year and I'm looking for the least hassle. Sometimes I'm not around and I need my wife to take the truck to smog it.
Any suggestions on the best OBDII tuner/programmers?
Superchips has been making programmers like this for a long time, here is a modern CA compliant model.
Or search Craigslist for an old school Superchips 1705. Make sure it is not VIN locked.
I never used such a thing so I cannot really vouch for it. But my guess is it is the easiest, safest way to get some ponies and still pass smog. I have to hide my DP switcher at smog time, kind of a PITA but switching tunes on the fly makes it worth the hassle.
For flash programmers, there are a few options. I'm partial to aawlberninf350's choice, the 1705 Superchips. The tuning is very safe and makes a nice improvement in power without drastically changing how the pickup drives (not highly-modified transmission stuff). The Edge Evolution line can also be considered but I'd shy away from the older non-CS/CTS models ("Game Boy"-style EEF1000 or 15001) - not because there's really anything wrong with the tuning but you mentioned your wife drives it and I'm not sure how she'll like the shifts. I don't have any real-world driving experience with the Hypertech stuff but I have some tuning off of one of the newer-model devices and it's not really that impressive and out of the three files, two were just about identical for two PCM codes meaning that you're paying for three but only really getting two.
All three of these function the same: The stock as-flashed PCM calibration is read and then modified and reloaded into the PCM memory. The Diablosport U7165 works well too although it functions a little differently than the others in that it replaces the original calibration with one that is compatible with the PCM hardware code (DPC code). As you have a 2000 already (and if it hasn't been reflashed with a 2001 calibration in the past), you won't notice any real difference in the nuances of the tuning that will be flashed to it. However, if you had a 2001 or a 2001 calibration, you'd instantly notice that the transmission doesn't shift the same. The WAY the U7165 tuning adds power is a little different than the others too but it works.
Find one for cheap on Ebay and try it out. You really can't go too wrong as all of the aforementioned products do what they say they'll do....except increase fuel economy.
Posted this and it somehow went to an old thread.... Thanks to Cody for alerting me lol I may have access to a barely used edge evolution cs2. A friend may be willing to sell, as I installed a hydra on his truck after a zf6 swap. We have been considering using it just for gauges, but may sell it. I would have to verify it isnt vin locked or anything
Posted this and it somehow went to an old thread.... Thanks to Cody for alerting me lol I may have access to a barely used edge evolution cs2. A friend may be willing to sell, as I installed a hydra on his truck after a zf6 swap. We have been considering using it just for gauges, but may sell it. I would have to verify it isnt vin locked or anything
Just to add a bit of information to this as the OP is from the "state of cancer that is known to cause California" (gotta get that Proposition 65 Warning in there), when using programmers that also act as a display (such as the CS2 mentioned), there is no need to have it sitting on the dash or connected after the PCM has been flashed. It's completely invisible to the eye if you need it to be.
Thanks for the input! I found a guy on craigslist with a used 1705 for $100.00. Maybe I'll pick that up to give it a try. I had my trans rebuilt about 20k miles ago. The shop did an upgrade from stock, but I declined the extra $750 to do a high HP trans build, so I'm going to stay away from the Edge tuners out of an abundance of caution.
I have a chip in my sports car and I was told by multiple shops that you have to disconnect it, not just tune it to "stock" when you get the car smogged. I worry that is the same for our trucks. A neighbor that has a Hyrda completely removes it when he takes his in for smog. Whatever programmer I use, I will completely remove it before getting smog done.
If I can get the 1705, I'll post back with my results.
Be aware that some shops in CA test for the P1000 code during a smog test. An FTE'r by the name of papajohn3 just went through this a couple of weeks ago.
Be aware that some shops in CA test for the P1000 code during a smog test. An FTE'r by the name of papajohn3 just went through this a couple of weeks ago.
You used to get away with one flag set but I think they changed the rules to all flags have to be clear (no CEL) to pass.
As thorough a job that the tech does on a visual inspection I never had a problem with my chip (6-pos or Hydra). They spent an inordinate amount of time under the hood but very little time in the cab except to start the truck, check the CEL, and do the Snap Test. Even so it's not that much of an ordeal to take it out for a day or two for the smog test.
Be aware that some shops in CA test for the P1000 code during a smog test. An FTE'r by the name of papajohn3 just went through this a couple of weeks ago.
Do the obdii or other tuner chips regularly throw a P1000 code or other code?
No, no they do not.
This code is normally set and active when the codes or code history has been reset. It is a tell tale sign to a technician or inspector that the codes were recently reset.
The link below, which is the same link I included earlier has more details about the P1000 code and how to get rid of it.
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