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I took my truck in to have new spark plugs and a fuel filter put in. They asked if I wanted them to replace the spark plug boots too. They're like $12 each. I said no, but, now, idk, there must be a reason why they asked me. Is it something important. It is an old truck afterall.
I took my truck in to have new spark plugs and a fuel filter put in. They asked if I wanted them to replace the spark plug boots too. They're like $12 each. I said no, but, now, idk, there must be a reason why they asked me. Is it something important. It is an old truck afterall.
You absolutely want to replace the boots whenever you change the plugs. Those little rubber boots live in a very hostile environment and over time they break down and get tiny cracks that will allow the COPs high voltage to leak out and that can cause a miss. I hope the $12 per boot includes the installation (it's actually not any real additional work as they have to handle the boots either way) as the complete set of 10 isn't very expensive. The Denso boots are identical to Motorcraft as they are the OEM manufacturer for Ford and they are cheaper to buy.
Make sure the shop is running the new plugs up to at least 26/28 ft/lbs of torque as the low factory spec of 11/17 ft/lbs is too light and can contribute to plug blowouts.
You absolutely want to replace the boots whenever you change the plugs. Those little rubber boots live in a very hostile environment and over time they break down and get tiny cracks that will allow the COPs high voltage to leak out and that can cause a miss. I hope the $12 per boot includes the installation (it's actually not any real additional work as they have to handle the boots either way) as the complete set of 10 isn't very expensive. The Denso boots are identical to Motorcraft as they are the OEM manufacturer for Ford and they are cheaper to buy.
Make sure the shop is running the new plugs up to at least 26/28 ft/lbs of torque as the low factory spec of 11/17 ft/lbs is too light and can contribute to plug blowouts.
I called in and told them to go ahead and change the boots! Thanks.
28ftlbs on the early heads is WAY too much! This early design only has three or four threads holding the plug in.
Denso makes the oem boot for ford and they are not 12 dollars a boot. I buy them from a parts store in town for less than five bucks a piece. And like stated there is no extra labor to change them
ALSO make sure they ONLY use motorcraft spark plugs, you will thank me later
28ftlbs on the early heads is WAY too much! This early design only has three or four threads holding the plug in.
Denso makes the oem boot for ford and they are not 12 dollars a boot. I buy them from a parts store in town for less than five bucks a piece. And like stated there is no extra labor to change them
ALSO make sure they ONLY use motorcraft spark plugs, you will thank me later
There are videos and write ups from a Tech that tested torque on some older short threaded heads from a parts yard and all of the tested holes withstood over 100 ft/lbs of torque without any failures. Increased torque over that lead to a few broken plugs before any of the holes suffered stripping. Those few threads are apparently tougher than you would think, unfortunately those few threads just don't hold the torque over time and use nearly as well as the later seven thread plug holes. I think the factory spec on the early heads was only about 11 ft/lbs or so, what value do you suggest they be set to? I have my 7 thread'05 2V plugs set at 32 ft/lbs.
28ftlbs on the early heads is WAY too much! This early design only has three or four threads holding the plug in.
Denso makes the oem boot for ford and they are not 12 dollars a boot. I buy them from a parts store in town for less than five bucks a piece. And like stated there is no extra labor to change them
ALSO make sure they ONLY use motorcraft spark plugs, you will thank me later
The reason the early head would blow plugs was Ford torque spec was not enough to keep the plugs from coming loose and start vibrating eventually blow the plug taking the threads with it. The concensus is 28 ft lbs is the correct torque for the early heads. That's what I torqued the plugs to in my 99 V10 motorhome.
Read FAQ 51 in the attached link. http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faq...0specification
Last edited by 2004 F450; Apr 21, 2021 at 10:12 PM.
There are videos and write ups from a Tech that tested torque on some older short threaded heads from a parts yard and all of the tested holes withstood over 100 ft/lbs of torque without any failures. Increased torque over that lead to a few broken plugs before any of the holes suffered stripping. Those few threads are apparently tougher than you would think, unfortunately those few threads just don't hold the torque over time and use nearly as well as the later seven thread plug holes. I think the factory spec on the early heads was only about 11 ft/lbs or so, what value do you suggest they be set to? I have my 7 thread'05 2V plugs set at 32 ft/lbs.
So, the shop called me a bit ago in RE to the rear end. It was making noise so I had them check it out. So, I went to the shop and spoke to the mechanic. Metal bits came out when they drained it and it seems the ring and pinion are worn, along with the spiders and the a bearing or 2 are shot. He said he torrqued the plugs to 25 lbs. So ,I don't know what to do about the rear. He said apporx $2500 for a replacement 3rd member. Yikes! Is that the type that you unbolt, drop it out,and bolt a replacement in? I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Is that something I can do at home? This whole is gonna cost me more than I paid for the truck 2 years ago. Although the truck is in excellent shape and everything works, so I guess it's worth fixing. IDK??? I wonder how much more a limited slip unit would cost. Anyone even know where I can shop for such pieces?
So, the shop called me a bit ago in RE to the rear end. It was making noise so I had them check it out. So, I went to the shop and spoke to the mechanic. Metal bits came out when they drained it and it seems the ring and pinion are worn, along with the spiders and the a bearing or 2 are shot. He said he torrqued the plugs to 25 lbs. So ,I don't know what to do about the rear. He said apporx $2500 for a replacement 3rd member. Yikes! Is that the type that you unbolt, drop it out,and bolt a replacement in? I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Is that something I can do at home? This whole is gonna cost me more than I paid for the truck 2 years ago. Although the truck is in excellent shape and everything works, so I guess it's worth fixing. IDK??? I wonder how much more a limited slip unit would cost. Anyone even know where I can shop for such pieces?
If the rear was shot on my 22 year old pickup I would search for a complete rear axle from a parts yard and swap it under the truck myself at home. As a matter of fact when I wanted new deeper gears for my tow rig Excursion I found a complete set of front and rear axles already setup with the 4.88 gears that I wanted. Swapping those axles with my factory 3.73 ones wasn't very difficult with a decent jack, six jackstands and some of my time in the driveway, the total cost ran about half of what the shops wanted to install new gear sets in my original axles.
If the rear was shot on my 22 year old pickup I would search for a complete rear axle from a parts yard and swap it under the truck myself at home. As a matter of fact when I wanted new deeper gears for my tow rig Excursion I found a complete set of front and rear axles already setup with the 4.88 gears that I wanted. Swapping those axles with my factory 3.73 ones wasn't very difficult with a decent jack, six jackstands and some of my time in the driveway, the total cost ran about half of what the shops wanted to install new gear sets in my original axles.
I've swapped a couple of complete rear-ends on Chevy trucks in the past. It's been a long time, tho. But, if I was to go that route, then IDK what I got for a dependable rear-end. I got some long distance trips planned this year and I don't wanna be having trouble out on the road. I think I'm ok with keeping the 3:73 gears. For what I tow, it does fine. I'm ok with spending a bit on some new stuff. Buuuuutt, I don't wanna get into the 4-5k range. That's what I paid for the whole truck!
The reason the early head would blow plugs was Ford torque spec was not enough to keep the plugs from coming loose and start vibrating eventually blow the plug taking the threads with it. The concensus is 28 ft lbs is the correct torque for the early heads. That's what I torqued the plugs to in my 99 V10 motorhome.
Read FAQ 51 in the attached link. FAQs
Would you say this is the same spec that should be used for a 2004? Supposedly those heads have more threads to prevent blow out.
Would you say this is the same spec that should be used for a 2004? Supposedly those heads have more threads to prevent blow out.
28/32 ft/lbs is a good range for the later 7 threaded heads on the modular motors, the factory torque spec for them is also pretty low at around 17 ft/lbs or so.
Find a axle shop to swap 3rd members. $2500 is way too much. Parts including a limited slip 3rd member, new gears, bearings and seals should run about $750. A 8 hour day of labor at $100 hour.
that's $1500.
If you've done a chevy, you can do a ford sterling 11.5. Lots of videos on youtube.
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