Dragging new caliper
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New User
Joined: Apr 2021
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Dragging new caliper
Hi all, new girl here. Doing work myself, never owned a Ford before. 2011 Ford 250 6.2L. Hauled horses the other day. Front left brake dragged and ceased. Was able to limp it home. Replaced to upgraded caliper, rotor, whole housing etc. replaced brake line, bled brakes. Still ceased. Left front only. I know it COULD be master cylinder but wanted to check here first before I start that. Had GMC’s before this. Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,911
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Ok, are you getting any ABS, traction control or other MIL lights?
Is it seized just sitting there, I mean what if you go jack up that wheel right now with the vehicle off? Will it spin by hand? Make sure front hub isn't locked if 4x4.
Did you have a trailer connected when this happened?
Is it seized just sitting there, I mean what if you go jack up that wheel right now with the vehicle off? Will it spin by hand? Make sure front hub isn't locked if 4x4.
Did you have a trailer connected when this happened?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 868
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From: Florida
Can we assume you changed the brake pads out too? Slide pins good and greased? This might not matter but are the calipers OEM or off brand? Got front new rotors on? Fronts are beefier than the rears.....
PJ
PJ
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PJ - Yes, so I got power stop front brakes to upgrade. Calipers, rotors and pads came together as a set. However, the wheel issue started before I changed out and continued with the new set also. Slide pins good and greased.
WWR - I am not getting any lights on message center. Not completely seized sitting up on jacks but incredibly difficult to move. Wheel spun free with out the caliper on. I was hauling around some twisting graded roads with 2 horses. I had to brake heavily several times and then I felt the front drag left. Truck was due for new brakes anyway so managed to get it home. Actually drove it a few times around town with no problem once it sat a day. Then started dragging again. Changed out calipers, rotors, pads and replaced brake lines.
WWR - I am not getting any lights on message center. Not completely seized sitting up on jacks but incredibly difficult to move. Wheel spun free with out the caliper on. I was hauling around some twisting graded roads with 2 horses. I had to brake heavily several times and then I felt the front drag left. Truck was due for new brakes anyway so managed to get it home. Actually drove it a few times around town with no problem once it sat a day. Then started dragging again. Changed out calipers, rotors, pads and replaced brake lines.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
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Well you could try cracking the bleeder when spinning by hand - this should tell you if it's residual hyd pressure or mechanical.
If no change it's gotta be slider pins or pistons.
If it only happens with a trailer try turning off trailer sway control in your dash info center
Were the pads difficult to insert into the caliper? I had one Power Stop set on our '08 F150 that I had to gently grind the slider ears on just one side -- they wedged into the caliper so tightly there was no way they were floating back from the rotor after application (confirmed by test drive -- the one side was much hotter than the other). Gotta be careful as too much will just cause rattling. I'm not suggesting you go grinding pad mounting but curious if you just happen to recall "oh yeah, that side I had to really fight just to get the pads in the caliper."
AFAIC you've done everything right and replaced virtually everything you can, but clearly something is still not working
If no change it's gotta be slider pins or pistons.
If it only happens with a trailer try turning off trailer sway control in your dash info center
Were the pads difficult to insert into the caliper? I had one Power Stop set on our '08 F150 that I had to gently grind the slider ears on just one side -- they wedged into the caliper so tightly there was no way they were floating back from the rotor after application (confirmed by test drive -- the one side was much hotter than the other). Gotta be careful as too much will just cause rattling. I'm not suggesting you go grinding pad mounting but curious if you just happen to recall "oh yeah, that side I had to really fight just to get the pads in the caliper."
AFAIC you've done everything right and replaced virtually everything you can, but clearly something is still not working
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 30
From: VA- Shenandoah Valley
As suggested, with that side jacked up, open the bleeder and see if that releases the wheel to spin more freely. That way, you are isolating the issue-fluid pressure that isn't releasing in the master cylinder or ABS system, or caliper isn't releasing.
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